Confused

That looks pretty much like the one I have.
It should have ignition switched 12v (Brown), ground (Blue), and a signal out (Black), which goes to a Digital Input on the ECU.

The innovate ethanol gauge uses the same flex sensor as everyone else which outputs a digital signal.  You are best to tap into the signal wire that goes between the ethanol sensor and the gauge and connect this to a DI.  The gauge and ECU can share the same signal so both will still work and no analog input needed. 

You would connect the White 0-5v output to either Volt 10 or Volt 11.

I've love this change to be back-ported to the G4+ too, please!

Thanks @Vaughan and @Adamw for the quick responses, and to clarify I wasn't going totally mad! 

Given how slip is calculated you won't actually be able to have less than -100% slip (this would be powered wheels not turning at all and un powered wheels turning at any speed greater than 0) I would say run with the 100% offset, the minimum of -300 will be a typo.

Just tested on the bench.  
Correct min max is as follows:

This is the latest firmware version. Unfortunately, the G4+ is not having any major new features or functionality added, and it appears only critical bugs are being considered for fixing.

It would be nice if they did a few minor "quality of life" improvements, but I don't think that's going to happen either

@Confused There are two different layouts used by PC Link, one in ECU mode, another in log view mode.  This is because some users have different layouts for tuning than they do for analysis.  You swap between them using the display mode menu.  If you only use one layout for everything then you can load the same layout in both view modes so you always have the same views regardless of whether you have a map open or not.

I've love this change to be back-ported to the G4+ too, please!

Hi,

Is there a reason the Digital Gauges are "disabled" during log playback and are only functional during live PC Connection?
Or is there a setting available to turn them on permanently?

I noticed this testing the Haltech ESP software - any configured "Digital Gauges" are live both during PC Connection/Vehicle Running and Log Playback.


As an example - it would make troubleshooting easier watching the Digital MAP Limit gauge *flash* as it does when vehicle is live, rather than trying to pick out "MAP Limit (psi)" vs "MAP Limit" from the parameter list and looking for a line "step" indication in a 60min log file.
Currently a whole page of Digital Gauges can be added - but these are immediately redundant once you disconnect from the ECU.

Thanks

All Link products should include a USB cable in the box. Your first port of call should be the dealer you bought it from if this is missing - this may just be an oversight on their part.
As for Owners Manual - once you've downloaded and installed the free PC Link G4X software to your laptop, you have access to one of the best manuals I have ever seen from any software application in my 25 years in the IT industry, right there within the application, that dynamically changes the current page based upon what you've got selected on screen.
Link do provide a number of "start up" configuration files, which have the basics pre-configured for a selection of engines, but you haven't purchased an off-the-shelf tune for your engine. You have purchased a fully programable aftermarket ECU, which can be made to work with almost every single combination of engine, sensors and modifications. You will need to get it correctly configured and tuned - if you are not capable of doing this yourself, then you will need to take it to a professional tuner, and pay them for their time, expertise, and use of their very expensive tuning equipment (such as a rolling road and accurate air/fuelling ratio sensors).

Further update to this topic. After a few very frustrating days trying to figure out what was going on I think I finally have this sorted. 
I have found out that the cheap sensor I purchased was rubbish, the armature that spins inside was not captured in the housing properly and was allowed to move in and out, this made the readings from the sensor  very erratic. The magnets were also very weak, so I think that was why I got more erratic readings when using another hall sensor temporarily taped to the side.
I have done some ' modifications' to the sensor, including drilling holes in the armature and fitting some new magnets, replacing the bushings with bearings, including thrust bearings and gutting the electronics and replacing them with a new barrel type hall sensor. Now the Vss sensor works fine, although there isnt much of the original sensor left. 
What I have learned from this is the sensor has to be exactly in the right place relative to the armature, or the speed reading gets very erratic. Literally a fraction of a mm can be the difference between success or failure. I used epoxy to lock the sensor in place when I managed to get a good reading. 
Hopefully road testing shows good results, however, rain and no roof is stopping that happening. 
Maybe this will be helpful for someone else.
 

All Link products should include a USB cable in the box. Your first port of call should be the dealer you bought it from if this is missing - this may just be an oversight on their part.
As for Owners Manual - once you've downloaded and installed the free PC Link G4X software to your laptop, you have access to one of the best manuals I have ever seen from any software application in my 25 years in the IT industry, right there within the application, that dynamically changes the current page based upon what you've got selected on screen.
Link do provide a number of "start up" configuration files, which have the basics pre-configured for a selection of engines, but you haven't purchased an off-the-shelf tune for your engine. You have purchased a fully programable aftermarket ECU, which can be made to work with almost every single combination of engine, sensors and modifications. You will need to get it correctly configured and tuned - if you are not capable of doing this yourself, then you will need to take it to a professional tuner, and pay them for their time, expertise, and use of their very expensive tuning equipment (such as a rolling road and accurate air/fuelling ratio sensors).

Lambda source, RPM, Lambda target, both axes parameters for the lambda target table and both axes parameters for the main fuel table.  

This happens to me, also, but I'm running a high resolution screen at 150% scaling - Dell XPS13, with its 13" 3200x1800 screen, so at 100% scaling everything is tiny

I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now.
This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables.

Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest.


Above are my settings for this.
Cutting the long story even longer:
The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter.
Within these 2 seconds, we want the 4D Ign table to take over, but only for these 2 seconds, and then we want to return to "Normal over-run fuel cut timing" after these 2 seconds are over.
This is activated by Virtual aux 1.
Virtual aux 1 is "On" when: MAP > 40kPa & Timer 1 <= 2 Seconds & ECT > 70 Degrees C

We have Timer 1 on virtual aux 2 that activates when TPS%<8 (Same as fuel-cut)
We have Timer 1 set to 3 seconds (3 seconds is arbitrary, as long as it is >2 seconds, we are okay)

The 2 seconds on the timer are important, as we don't want any overlap (Although I'm not sure if it would make any difference when there is no fuel being injected). Once the timer is above 2 seconds, the "Pops and bangs" in the 4D table switch off, and the overrun fuel cut takes over.
It is also important to have the polarity for the timer as "Reset on Off/On edge", as we want the 4D to only activate when we take our foot off the throttle. The "Off/on edge" means that the timer resets when VA2 starts.

Below is the time plot for this, which should explain it better than I can on how this works. (Please note, pops and bangs 4D is called "Chav mode").


Shout out to @koracingand @VaughanI've learned a hell of a lot from this, so I appreciate all of your support.

Kind regards,

Beefy

You have no PID, your min/max clamp settings look wrong, your E-Throttle target table is mostly full of 0s, and your log has almost no data in it.
 
In future, please always provide a PC Log with every parameter added - what you think is relevant is often not actually relevant, and it's parameters you didn't log which can tell the rest of the story.
 
I suggest you have a good read of the Help file, and fill in this missing data, and you may find that it begins to function a bit better.
 

The G4+ Plug-in was based on the G4+ Xtreme. The G4x plug-in is based on the G4x Xtreme. There's no differences in the underlying processors, as far as I'm aware.
With the Monsoon you get fewer features than the plugin.
However - the Plugins don't always have all the inputs and outputs available, so if you're concerned over number of I/O, the lesser wire in might be better than the plugin, at similar price points.
Having had a plugin, next time I'll be saving up for an extra month and getting a Wire-In Xtreme or higher.

That seems to be by design. From the help file:
 
Gear/Drive Corrections
Being in Gear or in Drive can add extra load to an engine causing a noticeable dip in the idle speed and so it is often preferable to increase the amount of air provided to the engine through the idle actuator when this occurs.
·Gear/Drive Offset - Specifies the amount of offset to add to the idle actuator base position while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive.
·Gear/Drive Idle Up - Specifies how much to increase the RPM target by while the Neutral/Park Switch is inactive. Only used in Closed Loop Idle Speed Control.

Apart from a Aux connected to a DI, CAN would be the only other option.  You would loop CAN1 to CAN2, send a Virtual aux that is true when TC knob pos = 0 out of one bus and receive it into the other as "Traction disable".

All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file.
The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.

I'm all good on that front mate, my mapper is golden.
 

You should certainly make yourself familiar with how PCLink works, the forums here can provide you a lot of support and assistance, and will save you having to go back to a tuner every time you want to make a minor change!
 
I would also make sure that you tell the tuner up front that you want full access to the ECU's configuration/tune when they have completed their work and you do not want it locked - if they are unwilling to to do so, then respectfully tell them to cancel your appointment, and that you'll go elsewhere!

All of these are possible. I suggest you download and install PCLink (if you've not done so already), open it up, open an Evo base map, then also open the Help file, and start looking at the options and the help file.
The Help file provided with these ECUs is the best sets of documentation I've ever seen - not only does it tell you how the software works, but also gives you help and advice on tuning, engine electrical systems and ECUs in general.