remski2

You could do the WOT hold at power up, or set up something like your AC switch to clear faults.  From memory with E-throttle faults you have to power cycle ign after clearing the fault.  

 
Load in the attached logging set.
E-throttle diag.llsx

Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car.  EJ207, quad VVT.  Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas.  Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up.  It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector.  
All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.  

Hi.
I dont have the scaling for temp but that should be pretty easy.
Seems like both fuel and oil pressure sensors are the same.
Here is the scaling that I made. 
Assumption here is that the sensor is linear. 
(forgot to mention that from what I've read, ecu and defi control unit need to be connected to the same groud point)

Hi.
I dont have the scaling for temp but that should be pretty easy.
Seems like both fuel and oil pressure sensors are the same.
Here is the scaling that I made. 
Assumption here is that the sensor is linear. 
(forgot to mention that from what I've read, ecu and defi control unit need to be connected to the same groud point)

Hi.
Log3
From what I see you are hitting a rpm limit (fuel cut) thus going lean around 7K rpm. 
First instance you going lean around 6600, log shows you are still on the throttle. (could be the way its logged)
Next I've noticed your voltage drops from 14.5 down to 13.8.. Not terrible but odd. (pulley slipping perhaps ?) 
 

 
Log4
You are hitting 15.7V during idle.. Thats a bit too high.
You hitting fuel cut for some reason.. 
First cut is due to rpm limit which you seem to hit quite often. But I cant tell why the 2nd cut is kicking in...
There is also Ignition correction at that time and I dont see where its coming from. (6.5 table vs 1.5)
 
Hope this helps

 
Ha ha.. 
Found it ... 
 
You have speed limit enabled !!!!

Hi.
Log3
From what I see you are hitting a rpm limit (fuel cut) thus going lean around 7K rpm. 
First instance you going lean around 6600, log shows you are still on the throttle. (could be the way its logged)
Next I've noticed your voltage drops from 14.5 down to 13.8.. Not terrible but odd. (pulley slipping perhaps ?) 
 

 
Log4
You are hitting 15.7V during idle.. Thats a bit too high.
You hitting fuel cut for some reason.. 
First cut is due to rpm limit which you seem to hit quite often. But I cant tell why the 2nd cut is kicking in...
There is also Ignition correction at that time and I dont see where its coming from. (6.5 table vs 1.5)
 
Hope this helps

 
Ha ha.. 
Found it ... 
 
You have speed limit enabled !!!!

If you want to add 1% fuel, put a 1 in the trim table.  

Your TP voltage is spiking to 11V at your 110% TP. 
Most TP systems operate a bit below 5V.

I'd start with fixing your knock. 
Seems like its pulling timing left and right. (even when you just rev it)
Your DBW is in setup mode.. so not sure if you aware of that.
Your IAT might be interfering as its adding fuel pretty much all the time.
Raise your Overrun De-activation RPM in the range of oprating temp.. from 1500 say to 1800 see if that help with the dips.
Last but not least.. I'd enable Idle ignition. That should help with rpms dropping as well. 
 
Hope this helps.

For the subaru example the Link ECU may take up to 720deg to sync, the factory ECU may have done something more sophisticated with the extra missing teeth which would allow it to sync in wasted spark mode within 180deg.  For the honda with no missing teeth the link should sync within the same amount of time as the factory ecu as there are no special tricks they can do with that basic trigger pattern.
So for the honda, most likely a tune issue, for the subaru it will possibly never be as good as the factory startup.  

Remsk2, you should look into setting up charge temp table, for IAT sensors that are mounted in the intake manifold it creates a bias that you can setup for ignoring IAT temps under certain circumstances. for ex. low rpm / idle you can have the table only watch ECT and once the rpms pick up and load comes up it can bias the other way. 
hope that helps 

I'd look into grounding.
You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. 
Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. 
Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. 
 
You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. 
Could also be a nicked wire..

The afr lean at 4-4.5k rpm is cause misfire, I have add fuel up to 10ve+, it still misfire at that range of rpm

Here is a starting point.
My EJ257 with GSC S2 cams, head work.. and so on...
 
 

You could reverse the axis.
RPM would have 11 and MAP would now have 16.

No, I used to think the same - it would be easier to use MAP for the VVT load axis as then it has more relationship to your VE table and it would then be easier to account for the change in VE due to cam position.
But, as I have been doing more VVT recently I have learnt that theory is not true and it is better to use TP for the VVT load axis.  The reason is that cam timing significantly affects the MAP, so if you have MAP as an axis on your VVT table, then in some situations you get the cam becoming unstable bouncing backwards and forwards because it is both affecting MAP and controlled by MAP.

4D ignition table with gear as one axis.
 

Knock threshold would have occurred in a earlier part of the run. It then is applied to that cell each time after unless reset. All in the help file. 
 

Key-on option is not going to work if you have no fuel pressure.
Your best solution would be to wire a signal from the starter solenoid to a DI so you can use the "Start position" option.  
Otherwise you can try increasing the crank enrichment instead.  The "First crank enrich" happens as soon as the ecu sees the engine start to turn, remains active for one crank revolution, and is a multiplier on top of the crank enrich table so it should give you scope to get a fair bit more fuel in there.  Also make sure the cells in the main fuel table that are in action during cranking are realistic as all enrichments are based on these.

Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.

This video will help:  https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs
Also, not shown in this video, but recently there is a new function added "surface locked to focused table", you will find this by right clicking on a surface view.  This allows you to have one surface view that switches to match whatever different text view table you are using - for instance if you use the F/I short cuts to switch between fuel and ignition map. 

You are correct, spark duration and arc duration are the same thing.  
In your case this setting may only just start to come into play a high rpm. 
The spark duration setting usually only comes in to play when you have a distributor with single coil and more than 4 cylinders.  It is used to shorten the dwell at high RPM when there is not enough time to both charge the coil and spark for the full duration.
As an example think of a V8 with a distributor running at 6000RPM.  At 6000RPM one engine cycle (two crank revs) takes 20ms.  All 8 cylinders have to fire in that time.  Lets say your coil needs 2ms of dwell to charge and the spark lasts for 1.0ms.  You have to do that 8 times in those 2 revolutions, 8 x 3ms = 24ms - but wait - you only have 20ms to do that in?  The ECU cant do anything about the spark so if it knows how long the spark needs and there is not enough time then it can shorten the dwell to make everything fit into the time that is available.
A rotary in direct spark mode at 8000RPM will have 7.5ms of cycle time to charge and spark.  So if you have a spark duration of 2.9ms that leaves you with about 4.6ms for dwell.  You generally dont need much more than 3ms on those coils unless very high boost or Methanol.  
With it set at 2.0ms now is not a big problem because as you can see it is quite likely you are not running into cycle time issues anyway.