Adamw

It uses the same E-throttle driver as our current ECU's, and the e-throttle control strategy in the G4+ is still decent. Idle control lacks a little in some areas compared to G4X, but you can still achieve good drivability and manners.

Is it an E36 plug-in ECU or a wire-in? Is it a new install or was it previously working and now isn't?

All G4+ Xtreme's have onboard e-throttle. I suspect someone is confusing the old red G4 (non-plus) Xtreme which didnt have.

There are 2 on that ECU, the one on the top board is USB and the one on the bottom board is CAN1 and serial. You will need another CANJST (easiest) or CANPCB cable.

What ecu CAN port is the PDM wired to? Is it just the PDM and keypad on the bus?

Have you tried the 350Z CAN mode? I know that works in the Navara from around that era

Give us a new log with the bat voltage fixed.

Same still applies.

Attach your tune and a log of a cold start, preferably with the lambda powered up before starting.

Your battery voltage starts off at about 11V at idle but gets lower and lower as you rev it, dropping down to about 10.3V at 2000RPM. That along with the auxes reporting faults would suggest possibly the main power supply is missing or compromised. The MAP is high and very erratic, is it a GTR/ITB's? Is it really a 4bar MAP sensor? - most G4X's had a 7bar. Your lambda is also pegged full rich/0.68 lambda, but the cal table is not set up in your map so Im not sure if that is relevant or not.

Do you have a log of each condition to compare?

That all looks ok assuming white is your H and red is L? Are there errors showing on the CAN1 in the runtimes screen, CAN tab?

Try these. Rafi tuned by HM3.pclx Rafi2 Custom3.aemcd7

Ok, that scope shows the cam signal, but nothing from the crank. Is this a TT plug-in or a wire-in ECU? Assuming a plug-in, I would start by unplugging the ecu plug and measure resistance between pin 90 in the loom plug (crank sensor ground) and 82 (crank sensor signal), I would expect about 900ohm if there is continuity all the way to the sensor and back and the sensor is good. If you dont get about 900ohm there, then check resistance at the sensor plug between the Gnd & Out pins to confirm that is ok.

Are you clicking the capture button when the engine is cranking - not before? When you say "no signal", do you still have flat lines showing on the scope? Has the ecu been unlocked?

I have seen this happen on evo's before where the ecu hold power doesnt let it power cycle. Try again, but this time when you get to the power cycle step, completely disconnect the battery, or unplug the main ecu connector for about 10seconds, the reconnect and click ok to proceed.

The 101-0080 sensor definitely uses the "1000 kPa (150 PSI) TI Sensor" calibration, so it does sound like you have an oil pressure issue.

You have hit the RPM limit at 0:47, 0:57 & 0:59. Your trigger error counter increments when this happens and the RPM still appears to be below the RPM limit at these time points so it is likely a trigger error causing a short spike in RPM above the limit value.

Im not quite sure what you are asking. White is CAN H and green is CAN L, so it is opposite of what you quote, and yes, they would usually connect to white and green at the ecu end if using a Link CAN cable. The two connectors shown in your pic appear to be pinned correctly.

It doesnt look a million miles away from what I'd expect really, when you say 15% more than you expect, what are you comparing to? A couple of suggestions: Turn off IAT trim - the charge temp approximation is used to correct for the air density. Copy the example charge temp table in the help file. It looks like the sec/pri flow ratio is set just on quoted flowrates, this will unlikely be correct. To confirm you need to set the staging table to 0 so it is running only on primary injectors, hold the engine at medium speed, medium load, check the reported lambda, then set the staging table to 100% so it swaps to running only on secondaries, check the lambda again. If the sec/pri flow ratio is correct then the lambda should be about the same regardless which injector is working. If not then make a small adjustment and check again. What fuel is it running?

Not if you are talking about PC Link. I think realdash can use internal GPS so you could send it to the ECU via CAN.

Your lambda is working in the first pic.

In the latest firmware you can use a table for the idle ignition target (use G5 software). You could use engine runtime or a GP output to change the target during startup if you wish. However, if you have knock or kick back at 16deg when cranking with poor cylinder filling etc, I would guess it is more likely a trigger issue than a "too much advance" issue.

Yes, I would say the fet or one of the PCB tracks related to it has been burnt. Yes, you can use your own relay to ground pin 4 instead.