Adamw

What does the TPS voltage show on the AN Volt runtime? Does it vary steadily with throttle movement by say more than about say 3V from closed to open?

You have an issue with the trigger (crank and/or cam sensors). Prior to about the 10:57 time mark in the log the trigger looked happy, around here can see the RPM starts to get large spikes - some to >10000RPM and trip the RPM limit, the trigger error counter starts to count up rapidly, after this point even at idle there are spikes all over the RPM trace. It could be a failing sensor (not very common but not impossible) or a loose connection, loose sensor, damaged wire or potentially some other wiring related issue such as a bad ground etc.

Your idle postion starts at 9.1%, this comes from your base position (7.6%) + your start-up offset (1.5%), you can see the start-up offset is decayed away over a few seconds and at log time -1:36 the idle position is back down to base position. But Your RPM is still at 1900 at its point - it is above your RPM lockout so idle control will never kick in. So your base position is too high for 40°C and possibly your start up offset is too high. At -1:35 your AC turns on which adds another 0.8% offset and makes things worse but that is probably ok provided the other two were closer to correct. Overrun fuel cut is active because your APS is below the APS threshold and RPM is above the de-activation RPM.

You will need an active USB extension. I have a 10M Unitek Y-278 that I use an engine dyno that works good.

8k narrow should work nicely with that.

You will need to post the tune and a log showing the problem for anyone to be able to help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yes that will be fine.

What devices do you want to power from your ADIO?

I would use 8K for a EJ207. Attached is a spectrograph from our EJ205. Frequency is the Y axis, you can see at 7, 7.5 or 15K there is not a clear difference between knocking and not knocking, at 8-9K it is much easier to see. 8K works good in our car.

This is your main problem, causing what Kris describes in his first sentence. The purpose of the speed lockout is to stop the idle control winding the valve closed when you are rolling up to a stop in overrun.

For a generic multi-tooth/missing trigger mixed with OEM cam pattern you will likely need to use cam window or cam level sync. Or it may be a close enough match to one of the other OEM 60-2 based trigger modes. The cam sensor needs to be wired to trigger 2 then give us a trigger scope capture at idle with the vvt solenoid unplugged and we can advise on the sync set-up with that. You don't even need the ecu to see if the VVT works or not, if the cam moves you will instantly add an extra 40deg of overlap to the valve events at idle, it will either stall straight away or by some miracle it may continue to run (barely) but it will be very obvious something significant has changed. You can even take the ecu and wiring out of the picture completely and just connect 12V and ground straight to the solenoid from the battery when it is idling to confirm. Check that you have adequate oil pressure at idle with the VVT activated also, some engines dont.

attach a copy of your tune and dash config.

Is there a question? We need the tune file that was in use when the logs were made also.

There are no fault codes and your AN Volt 2 is reporting the correct voltage in the log. So it looks like you just haven't recalibrated the TPS after changing the throttle or fixing whatever caused the incorrect voltage. The "running rough" is just because overrun fuel cut is bouncing on and off. This is because the throttle is sitting in its natural disabled position.

A Clio isnt 60-2, it is an odd 60-1+1-1, you need to use Clio 3RS VVT trigger mode with the cam sensor connected to trigger 2. It needs 720 sync for VVT control. You also need to use an aux output for the VVT solenoid as injector drives have no free-wheeling diode so they will give poor response when driving a PWM solenoid (slow to close). But this wouldnt stop the cam from moving if you were using "Test ON" mode though, the solenoid should be fully open so the cam should slam to full advance instantly. So it sounds like there is a mechanical or electrical issue if you dont hear the crash as the actuator hits the mechanical stop and the engine runs very rough when you set the drive to test mode.

If its a red G4 this is fine, if its the earlier silver one with P&H drivers then they can backfeed just like an aux. Provided they only have 12V when the ignition switch is on they are fine.

No. This means the voltage on the AN volt 2 pin is below the "Error low" that you have set on AN Volt 2 (0.05v in out base map), so it is defaulting to the error value which looks like it is set to 1.00V. So start by measuring the voltage on pin 4 of the throttle body, if you have 0V there then the TPS has died, if it is outputting the expected ~0.5V then you have a disconnection between here and the ANVolt 2 pin at the ecu.

Yes, I understand this much. What Im getting at is if the relay is staying energised, then it must still have current flowing through its coil after the ignition switch is off. For that to happen it means pin 86 must still have a path back to the battery somehow when the switch is off. There is no problem to the ecu or other electronics running it like this, it will just flatten the battery if the master is not shut off. But be aware since this relay is not switching off with the ignition switch it may mean there is a possibility that the engine wont switch off with the ignition switch when you want it to either - potentially a safety issue.

Yes. Can you draw a schematic of how the Innovate relay is connected to the ecu and the ignition circuit. You have a back feed, the only place a backfeed can come from is an aux device that remains live after the ignition switch is off. So it is either your innovate relay pin 86 that is still has 12V after the ignition switch is off or something else that you have connected to one of the other aux outputs. What else is connected to ecu aux outputs?

The 12V supply to the relay coil must be from an ignition switched source, yours must be live all the time if the relay is staying engaged after ign is off.

The sensors are wired in series with just a single wire going back to the dash. As far as I know both sensors are the same, so measure 1 and double it.

You havent really provided any info to help. The loom manufacturer should probably be the first port of call for questions about which ecu is controlling what functions and what needs to be set up in the engine ecu to making the trans ecu happy, all this would have had to be planned before making the harness. If you cant get that info from the loom manufacturer then if you can provide all the loom documentation and a copy of the tune and log from the ecu and a better description of the problem you are trying to solve then we may be able to offer more relevant advice.

With touch start, if you press the same button again when the engine is running, it will stop the engine. Can you explain better how you want the accusump logic to work.

I would say you have just kissed the RPM limit. You just dont see all the detail due to the logging rate. In the next firmware the limit capture for logging has been improved so that the status and limit flag word will stay active for a minimum time so it is always captured even in a slow log.

Yes, this is the oscillation that I mentioned above. The PID needs tuning. I would start by dropping the max min DC down to 90% as shown in the EvoX throttle settings in the help file and you will possibly have to reduce proportional a little too.