Adamw

Basic set up from the help file below. From memory they have a cam sensor on each side of the engine and the trigger offset is 360deg different depending which side you use. So trigger offset may be around -4 as below or 356 for the other cam (I dont know which cam our data was based on). There is a 1UZ Atom base map in G4X PC Link. It is only a basic start up map and not from a tuned engine. If using traditional fuel equation you dont really need to know injector size, just adjust the master fuel value until it starts/runs. I would expect if using the stock 251cc injectors the master fuel setting will need to be up around 20-30ms.

The 5V supply is rated for 400mA at its specified accuracy. So typically enough for 30-50 sensors.

Is it a G4 or G4+? Black or blue case?

The flywheel turns twice for 1 revolution of the cam. So when the flywheel "TDC" tooth passes the sensor there is no way for the ECU to know whether it is TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke. For direct spark and/or sequential injection you need to know which stroke your are on which typically means a cam sensor. The other option would be to change to a more conventional missing tooth crank wheel and use "MAP sync" instead of having to add a cam sensor as well (G4X can use a MAP sensor connected to 1 intake runner to detect the intake stroke).

@Mach The original osciloscope of the trigger you posted above, can you confirm that this engine only has just the one sensor on the cam? Am I right the signal you show on trigger 2 is being generated by the factory ecu and would not be present if the factory ecu wasnt in place? Also, can you confirm there is no VVT on this engine?

Then I cant think of any reason why it wouldnt work then. The Aux output should produce something very similar to a hall effect sensor. If you connect the speed sensor to DI1-4 you could do a trigger scope to capture the duty cycle of the original signal if you wanted to duplicate it as close as poss, but usually speedo's are just looking for edges and the DC doesnt really matter. Or you could just try say 30%, 50% & 70% to cover the bases.

Yes, it works fine, but is only capable of wasted spark or distributor ignition. If you want sequential and direct spark you will have to fit aftermarket triggers as Sterling suggested above.

Swap the dip switches and check you have realistic RPM displayed when cranking. If you do then move on to confirming timing. If you dont then they were probably correct the first time.

Is his V3.1 hardware? You can see in the ECU information screen.

I suspect you have the trigger dip switches set wrong. Did you try them in the opposite configuration as per the manual?

No, case does not need to be grounded. The main ECU power grounds are B4, B69,B79 & B80. Not all of these may be connected in all cars, But at least a couple of them should be and they should have very low resitance to the engine block.

I've got the pinout below for the cam sensor, you will probably find the crank is the same. "Out" connects to the ecu trigger 1/2 pin. "Gnd" connects to the ground wire. "S" connects to the shield.

If you cant find information from some other engineer that has done it himself and publicly shared the information, then the only way is to connect a CAN sniffer to a car with the stock ecu and reverse engineer the CAN messages.

Did the speedo work when connected directly to the sensor as per factory?

I have never tested a R35 coil, but many modern coils switch at "TTL" level. This means they only need to see a signal of about 2V on the trigger pin to start charging, and they will spark when that trigger pin voltage drops below 0.7V. So you only need a relativly minor ground problem before you can end up with a offset between the ground that the ECU uses and the ground that the coils use and run in to behaviour like this. I just meant wiring issues in general. The crank and cam sensor are very simple devices, only 2 wires each yet they were both wired wrong from the start. In contrast, coils are relatively complex high energy devices with 18 wires between them, so I think the chances of a wiring issue in this dept would be something I wouldnt rule out.

This ecu is the latest hardware revision and has the new ignition circuit which shouldnt be able to cause a spark at power up. Given your other wiring issues, I suspect you may have an odd ground offset or something between ecu and engine/chassis causing the coils to spark on power up. A quick fix might be to change the trigger wire on your coil relay so that it is switched on with the fuel pump.

You will need to get an oscilloscope capture of cam and crank signal so we can see the problem.

Was the map you attached to the previous page of this post from your ECU? That map says the serial number is 106828. Have a look in >help>ecu information.

Either will run the engine, if you choose to use a map that wasnt set-up for that specific ecu then you will just have to re-assign the inputs and outputs to match.

Can you attach the tune file as well. Aux 4 should be assigned to E-throttle signal 1. Also set active tables to 1. Do another log after making these changes.

Do you know what trigger sub-board your ECU has in it? Attach a picture with the lid off if not. Also a pic of the trigger inside the distributor would be helpful.

You would need to provide information of the CAN bus messages that the car uses for the cruise switches.

The L15A generally uses the K20 trigger mode from what I have seen.

I suspect it may not be possible to monitor switched cam positions. The 2nd position sensor would be wired to DI 1-4. You could try setting up user defined VVT to see if you get cam positions reported - im not sure if it will work without 2 auxes assigned as vvt solenoids. Instructions for setting up user defined vvt is in the help file. Purge is no drama, there is no leak detection function in the ecu. Probably a GP limit table for the safety shut off and a GP output with say 3 conditions for the lamp. There is an example in the help file for an oil presure GP limit.

I have messaged you a test firmware with the multi-tooth 3 on cam trigger fixed. Please give this a try. To install this, open the firmware update tool as normal, but use the browse button to navigate to the .img file I provided.