Adamw

Yes you can pass the same parameter received in one CAN port back out of the other.

You originally said you can’t see anything on the scope. So you first need to fix the wiring so you have valid signals showing on the scope before you start messing with settings or cutting teeth off. As Vaughan already said, this pattern you have will quite likely work with one of the Toyota modes without modifying anything, but we need to see a scope to confirm positioning of the teeth.

That cal looks very odd for a PTC sensor so I suspect it is not accurate. You might be best to test in ice water (0c), room temp (20c) and boiling water (100C) yourself. The 1V voltage change for 180deg temp change is not going to give great resolution either.

It sounds like the aux is working correctly then. The blue light could be as simple as a dead LED, if the engine runs ok I would not worry about that. If you unplug the ecu, do you have 12V on pin 5 with ign on?

With the sensors removed from the engine, but still plugged into the loom and with ignition on so they are all powered up, back probe the signal pin at the sensor connector and connect a voltmeter (use a paper clip poked through the wire seal). The signal wire should be 4V or higher with no metal in front of it and 0V when you hold something steel in front of it (like a screw driver or spanner). If you dont see that voltage change then there is some problem with the wiring/pinout/sensor. If you see a voltage change at the sensor when you do the above test, then the next step would be to do a similar test using the triggerscope, with metal and no metal in from of both sensors. If the signal is getting through the loom and back to the ecu correctly then you will have two flat lines on the scope showing 4+V when there is no metal in front of the sensors and flat lines at 0V with metal in front of the sensors.

Trigger looks good now. I would not worry if you only get one or two errors as it stops, as long as it is not counting up when its cranking or running it will be good.

Yep something not happy there. It starts off ok then gets "stuck" high. Have you got the pinout set up like below?

Yes. You can still have both lambdas connected and you can still view the lambda of each bank separately in the software and logging etc. But if using closed loop control it will use the average of the two banks. So say for instance on a hot day if your bank 1 was running 3% richer than target and bank two was running 5% richer than target then the closed loop would see the average of that error and pull 4% fuel out of both banks.

You can certainly tune the banks separately assuming your trigger system is capable of sequential injection (you can trim each cylinder individually if you wish). The storm however only has single bank closed loop O2 control - so closed loop will just work off the average of all lambda probes.

What is the sensor from? Do you have a part number of something?

For the VVT solenoids the polarity doesnt matter. Connect one side to the aux and the other side connected to the switched +12V branch that is labeled "VVT, idle valve etc" on the drawing I attached. Fuel pump and fan relay wiring is already shown on the drawing I attached.

Yes your trigger matches the Mazda 3 mode. I have no idea about the offset, but provided your ignition timing shows 10deg at both low RPM and high RPM when the timing is locked to 10 then your offset is correct.

If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that.. You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly. You can use cal table 7/8/9/10. The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume. Then use those numbers to make your cal table.

With G4+ if you are using traditional mode, combining the two inj DC's as you propose is the best way to do it. There will always be a fudge factor to apply to your calc due to deadtimes and other non-linearatites but once dialed in it works pretty well. We used that method in Andy Duffin's RX7 when he was running in the endurance series. If you are using modeled mode you can use the parameter "instantaneous fuel consumption" which will be a little more accurate. In G4X we have added "Virtual fuel tank" functionality which covers this much better.

Yes, that would work fine. You could also send E-throttle relay signal to the PDM via CAN bus if you wish to save an input.

Yes, you can tell from the trigger scope that it has the hall wheel which is why I said it needs the hall sensor. The reluctor will spike high when metal is moving towards it and spikes low when metal moves away from it, so you can see where the tooth starts and stops. The tooth would be the pink line, and that is what your cam signal should look like.

The blue light should be on anytime the ecu is powered and there are no fault codes. You can see if the aux output is working with a voltmeter. If you set the aux to "test ON" you should have 0V, set to off you should have 12V.

Wire intake cam sensor to trigger 2, exhaust cam sensor to DI1. Intake VVT solenoid to Aux 1, Exhaust solenoid to aux 2.

For checking base timing, I would temporarily set it to direct spark, unplug all coils except #1 and confirm timing while cranking. This will get rid of the second flash which makes it hard to do it right.

Yes, it looks happy.

If trig 2 is a hall then my comment about arming threshold doesnt apply.

You will need a hall cam sensor. The cam has a long tooth, reluctor sensors only work on short shape teeth. Your tooth is like this: _________| ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅̅̅̅̅̅̅̅̅ ̅ ̅ ̅ ̅|___________ Reluctor only works with teeth like this: ________/\__________̅̅̅̅̅

Someone has sold you the wrong cam sensor. That one is a reluctor from the non-vanos M50, not hall. The M50 hall sensor part number looks like 12141740959 or 12141748400 or 12141740383

If 0.5-4.5V is the normal operating range, then you need to have your error values away from those to allow for tolerance and slight under/over pressure. 0.1V for error low and 4.9V for high would be typical for a pressure sensor error thresholds.

Suggested bare minimum would be cam sensor, crank sensor, vvt solenoid, water temp, air temp, TPS, fuel pump, fan, 4 x coils, 4 x injectors. If it is a blacktop beams then there will need to be 2 x cam sensors and 2 x vvt solenoids connected. Idle valve would also be highly desirable. Basic generic wiring diagram attached below. Monsoon-4-Cyl-Generic.pdf