Adamw

It was a bug that was fixed sometime ago but it didnt actually affect the way anything works from memory. Above the speed lockout the idle status was displaying speed for some reason.

@Vaughan I think he's saying he wants that absolute option in gear shift control.

Give us a log and tune then please.

The normalise function will scale all of the ratios so one of the gears is 1:1. In user defined mode you will enter the calculated ratio, not the normalised ratio.

Is that the factory wiring? All the manuals I have show different colours and I can find no diagram with the colours you have. The errors you have above suggest the 5V is shorted to ground so you definitely have something quite wrong. Do you have a photo of the wiring with the original subaru plug on?

Yes looks fine. Signal 1 can be from any aux 1-4. Signal 2 can be from any aux 5-8. Enable (e-throttle relay) can be from any aux/fuel/ign. You could use ign 7 or 8 on the Exp connector#2 or one of the other unused auxes on the main header.

What engine is it? Can you attach the actual trigger scope file rather than a screenshot.

The PID will be different but that doesnt sound like your only problem. It sounds almost like it might be working backwards, is the aux 9 active edge set to high?

Thats an odd one. Can you attach your map and I will see if it is something in there causing it.

On engine where we had good reliable information on the normal trigger offset, this has been built into the trigger mode. So in most cases you can set it to zero and it will run. As for the info removed from the help file, we have only removed the stuff that is no longer needed in G4X. The Aux setup have been removed as you can now use any Aux for the solenoids. The VVT offsets were removed as the calibration is all done automatically.

Seems to work as expected for me. Example below 6613RPM/150.8kph= 43.85 = close enough to 43.83RPM/kph gear ratio calc reported.

Yep.

As I said above, you cant have the auxes turned off, they must be assigned as fans. Did you try ign 3 on high polarity?

No, the adapter board is still the same as G4+ at the moment.

Are you on the latest firmware? The calibration tolerance was opened up a lot in recent firmware. Otherwise I would like to see a log, possibly have a noisy speed source. You can also just look at the "Gear Ratio Calc." parameter from a logged drive and provided they are reasonably stable enter those numbers directly into the ratio table.

Yes, you can switch between up to 3 tables.

You can use the open loop PWM fuel pump control function. Those crydom and other cheap SSR's generally dont like driving a motor at any more than about 100Hz and some pump make quite a growl at that. But give it a try. The note in the help file is comparing to proper fuel pump control modules which would typically work at ~20KHz. Yes use an ign or inj drive if it is live all the time to prevent backfeed. However be aware SSR's usually fail "closed" so consider the safety factor if you dont have an isolator or some other easy way to disable. Dedicated PWM fuel pump controllers are generally designed to fail open, whilst dedicated fan controllers are designed to fail closed. There is a prime function built in to the open loop fuel pump control function.

with both aux outputs turned off one fan will be running all the time as it works "backwards". So as far as I know Ign 3 polarity should be set to low and ign 4 polarity high.

AC clutch is on Aux 3 and Fan is on Aux fuel 8, so GP output something like bloew would do it.

Pin 23 is Sensor ground. For the E-throttle module you can use Aux 1&2, 3&4 or 9&10.

There is something wrong with your MAP sensor or its wiring. It is the MAP dropping to zero which remove all fuel causing it to die. Idle MAP would typically be fairly steady around 30kpa, you can see in the pic below it is bouncing from 0-102 and it is reading 2kpa where my cursor is which makes it stall.

Yep looks pretty normal. I have about +/-10 at idle, and lots more depending on throttle movement.

Dont attach any ground will be the safest. It will find its way though chassis and back to the ecu. Yes, that is perfect. The flash/solid for two warnings can be done in the software, only connect lamp to one aux.

The ECUmaster CAN switchboard is a decent option. It has 4 outputs, 8 analog inputs, 8 switch inputs (only limited options what youy can use the analog inputs for in G4+): https://www.ecumaster.com/products/can-switch-board/ It doesnt come with a case as its designed to be mounted in a steering wheel but you can put it in a small electronics box or just large glue lined shrink over it. https://www.ecumaster.com/products/can-switch-board/

3 wire pressure sensors you can usually share the signal - so for instance the one oil pressure sensor could be connected to both the gauge and the ecu. You will potentially lose a little accuracy as the sensor is not referencing the ECU 5V or sensor ground but for oil pressure high accuracy is not usually critical. It is useful to have both fuel and oil pressure in the ecu as you can use them for engine protection strategies as well as fuel pressure compensation in the tune. For your oil temp sensor it could possibly be shared but you will have to do a bench test to confirm the pull up voltage that the gauge uses. So power the Oil temp gauge up on the bench, (no sensor pluged in) measure the voltage accross the temp temp sensor wires. If it is 5V you can share the signal with the ecu (direct to AN Volt, no pull-up needed), if it is 12V you cant use it. As for the question about why the pull-up is needed for the oil temp sensor: There are two types of analog inputs - Temp inputs and Voltage inputs. The temp inputs are designed to be connected to a resistance type sensor so they have a 5V 1kohm pull-up connected inside the ecu. The volt inputs are designed to be connected to a sensor that is powered and outputs its own voltage so these inputs dont have a pull-up. But your drawing didint originally show the oil temp sensor was also going to be connected to a gauge (which would have a pull-up built in) so if the oil temp is connected to both ecu and a gauge then the external pull-up in the ecu wiring would not be needed.