Adamw

Attach your map and a log showing this, I will take a look.

In Ethrottle 1 setup menu, change aux 9 active state to the opposite of whatever it is currently set to

It is in error condition in that photo so will default to whatever is set as the error value. What is the frequency showing on the flex DI?

Start by setting the basic fundimentals correctly. These are the settings you have in your map.

Ah yes, that is a Schottky which will have very low forward voltage drop at low current. Try a something like a 1N400X. Not that I have seen reported. The switching threshold of 1.5 & 1.0V on our DI's has been the same since G3 ecus about 15 years ago. So is fairly well proven and works well for most sensors. A ground offset of more than 1V is pretty unusual and suggests there is a bad connection somewhere.

Why not? What voltage did you see with the diode connected? No it is hardware, not software adjustable.

I think the most likely problem is the signal is not falling below 1.0V, it looks like it drops to about 1.1V. That would suggest the circuit that generates this signal possibly has a bad ground. Two things you could try; The easiest one would probably be to add a diode inline with the speed signal on pin 41 at the ecu. A diode will drop the voltage by about 0.7V. You could try to trace the ground for the cluster as shown in the diagram below and connect it to ecu ground instead of whatever it is connected to now.

In that case you have done as he suggested. Seems very odd to use a compound ID when only a single frame is being sent so it wouldnt hurt to get him to confirm that that was not a mistake, otherwise the ecu is set up correctly.

For a turbo engine like this with a plenum and single throttle your best option will be MGP on both the fuel table axis and lambda target table axis.

Yes pinout/loom is pretty much the same through all of our wire-in ecu's, the odd small change for say a Fury with internal wideband but usually a direct plug in and go to swap between ecu's. A couple of other thoughts: I have little experience with EZ36, but with most NA VVT engines the exhaust cam isnt worth much in terms of engine performance. Generally it is there more for EGR to improve emissions & economy, rather than increase torque. In fact with some engines I have tuned I can swing the exhaust cam from full advance to full retard with barely a detectable change in torque. The stepper motor EGR is also probably not a nescesity. So if you dont have aux 9/10 you could perhaps consider these comprimises to make it work with what you have. You can always leave the wiring there so you can enable these functions later if an ecu upgrade was decided on. Note, if you want to power up your ecu to check, the only two wires its needs in 12V on pin A5 and ground on A34.

So are you running the returnless fuel system at 50psi and 900cc injectors that the map is set for?

The K24A3 as far as I know has the 3 lobe Ntec cams with VVT as well - like a K20A. A Monsoon should do this fine if you only need the basics (assuming it has cable throttle). The Monsoon has 6 aux outputs, so for an NA engine you would use do something like this: VVT solenoid Vtech solenoid Idle valve Fuel pump Fan Tacho. So none spare for say boost control, but there are a couple of ways you could free up a couple. You could wire the coils wasted spark which would give you two ignition drives spare that you can use for auxes - or you can just have the fuel pump run all the time or use a temp switch for the fan.

Did their instructions definately say to enable this frame ID? It is pretty unusual to use a frame ID when you are only sending one frame. Otherwise the rest of your setup looks ok for how I would expect it to work. Can you share their instructions?

Do you not have an old map out of your ecu you can look at? You are still going to have the same problem as the Storm only has 8 aux outputs. It is a bit more flexible in that VVT can now be on any aux but E-throttle module must be Aux 1/2 or Aux 3/4. Stepper motor still needs Aux 5-8. So if you got rid of the EGR or changed it to a solenoid then it may be an option.

Senordos, This thrread is about G4X, it doesnt apply to G4+ which uses a completely different comms chipset, different communication method and has less than 1/4 of the data moving between ecu and pc and lower speeds. G4+ was very robust comms and rarely gives any trouble. For troublesome cars with a G4+ you can use the CANSER cable and plug it into the RS232 port instead. https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANSER_2

If your ECU has Aux 9/10 then you can likely connect the E-throttle directly. If it doesnt have Aux 9/10 and you have already used all other auxes then I dont see what you arre going to connect it to.

Basically yes. But you could also say in simple terms open heart surgury is as easy as cutting open the heart and stitching a new valve in... How simple it is will depend on your relevant skill and knowledge level. You will need to sorce the correct ecu header, devise a way to attach wires to the pins on the back side (usually experiment until a tight fitting crimp pin is found), attach wires, build a mould to "pot" the connections and insulate the bare pins, reverse engineer the factory pinout - things like which circuits are live all the time - which are live only with ign etc, often there will need to be small circuits added in the adapter loom to make factory relays etc function properly. You will need the correct crimping tools for all terminals you are working with as well as an understanding on proper splicing techniques etc.

I dont think either would be anything related to the engine ecu. In some cars you need to do an abs reset if you ever disconnect the battery or unplug one of the ecu's. You will have to get someone with a scan tool to see what faults they are reporting.

Since you have a scope that would be a good test, connect the ground clip to the engine and the probe to the cam signal wire while running and give us a photo of the waveform. Some of the power probes a have a "waveform" function which give you a very basic scope type trace on screen with just min and max voltage reported.

Yeah, according to our notes pin 58 is the auto trans shaft speed. Since our ecu doesnt support the auto trans that pin is not connected. I dont know for sure but I suspect that wire still doesnt have any connection to the speedo. You could try moving the wire from pin 58 to pin 29 and see if you get any signal from it.

If that is the case I think you are going to have to find someone with an osciloscope to see what is wrong with the signal. Even above 90kmh it doesnot look like a usable signal.

Your setup all looks fine. That would suggest either there is no signal at all when it is running, or possibly there is a signal but it is not crossing one of the voltage thresholds. The fact it shows active with metal in front of the sensor with the engfine off suggests it is meeting the thresholds at that time, but there may be something like a large ground offset when its running or something that prevents it. The signal needs to rise above about 1.8V and fall below 1.0V so it is generally pretty foolproof. G4X triggerscope captures DI1-4, but if it shows Inactive all the time then the scope is going to show nothing either. Do you have an osciloscope or a powerprobe?

G4X allows up to 200. As I mentioned earlier I dont know how relivant that is. But I suspect you can get away with a lot more than you currently have at small errors since your log shows it is only taking quite small "bites" out of the error with each correction.

>Digital inputs>GP Speed 1, is the pull-up resistor turned on?

I have no idea whether a GTO knock sensor is compatable, but the pin 58 is the knock pin on the Evo1-3 ecu. This thread is about the VR4 ECU which doesnt have the knock pin connected to the factory header.