Adamw

You will need a tuner preferably with a dyno for that.

Crank is wired incorrect polarity, cam is ok. Swap the +/- wires on the crank sensor and check base timing again.

You dont need a three way switch, two options of how you could do it, one using an external 12V like your original schematic, the other using the ECU internal 12V pull-up:

If injector 3 doesnt work doing the injector test function then you have a wiring issue. Your log only shows 0.5second of cranking so it isnt really enough to give us a good idea that everything is ok, but all the basics appear to be there. Does your timing look correct when you are cranking? What size injectors?

How do you know injector 3 is not working? Is this when you are using the injector test function or when cranking or is the engine running now? Please attach a log of it cranking as I asked earlier.

Sorry, I dont know what your question is. You need to check the base timing with a timing light.

I havent touched one yet, or seen the config in RS3. Do you need the beta RS3?

No, as I said above, in multipoint group mode it will be in two groups 180deg apart. All odd drives will fire together then all even drivers will fire together. How you pair them up isnt important. No it is just a typo by the looks. G4 works the same as G4X in the multipoint group phasing. All 6 drives are used.

If you fix those basics then it will most likely run. If it doesnt please give more detail about your engine and a log of it cranking.

That is a LEM V5, use the LEM V5 install and tuning manuals that are pinned at the top of the G1 forum, along with the rotary specific amendments that I have attached to this post. 13B info.pdf CAS.pdf Zone tables.pdf

If its showing 150RPM then it suggest the trigger is ok. A couple of things I noticed in your map: Fuel is turned off. IAT is reading 100°C MAP hasnt been calibrated. Trigger offset looks wrong. Battery voltage only shows 7.2V when the map was saved.

I have moved your post into is own topic since it is probably not related to the post about the S15 wiring issue that you posted in. Can you give more info about your problem. What ECU, what car, do you have RPM showing in the software when cranking? Have you done all the pre-start checks in the manual?

Yes the dash can have a custom CAN stream set up to receive both ECU and EGT together. No need for a hub.

Yes, you would need to run a 3rd wire to power it however. Correct. polarity doesnt matter on a VR sensor. Hard to tell which one is the signal on the drawings you attached. Could be 10 or 12, one of them will likely have continuity to ground so use the other one.

Pres r for runtimes and go to the ecu status tab.

The only way to do that would be to have a single cell for the e-throttle target table, click on it, and use shift A or shift Q to bump up/down. Or just type in a new value if you need a big change

WRX v4 & 6 have reluctor sensors, they are not powered at all.

As per Simon’s earlier comment, what is Lambda 1 error and Lambda 1 status runtimes reporting?

correct.

Yes, it should be fine with the sensor you have. Connect the K series sensor direct to a DI. You will need the cap/resistor to make the Aux output signal appear more like an AC signal to the speedo as per the other thread but that should be all.

Probably quick trim is the closest option we have for correcting fuel table from a logged trace. Quick trim does the target Vs measured math and corrects the relevant cell. Here's a video I done for someone else, its for a G4X but the same function is available in G4, quick trim explanation starts about halfway through: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszz5hTxJ8ec0MitL?e=OUayMY

Photos of cam wheels are no use to us, we need a scope capture from a properly assembled engine with both cam and crank (and preferably but not essential spark#1 as well) recorded together. The phasing between the patterns of the two wheels and their relationship to TDC#1 is the important info that is missing.

The ECU is a LEM V5, so the last of the G1's which was PC tunable and had an extra 4 pin socket with a couple of extra inputs over the older versions. The sub board (trigger decoder) I have cant personally identify - @Simon may be able to on Monday. It appears to have the electronics on board for 2 x opto/hall sensors of an odd pattern so my guess is it probably matches the "Mitsi V6" label. Probably 6G72 which had 3 teeth on crank and 4 teeth on cam (or equivalent in a CAS).

Ok, so that part number is a Mk4 supra plug-in. Is it a 2J in a mk3 chassis? Has it got a 2J loom fitted? Your triggerscope suggests the main ground may be missing - The square wave we are seeing I think is the stepper motor current flowing through the trigger ground. Pins B69, B79 & B80 are the main power ground, can you check these have continuity/low resistance to the engine block. Also check the battery negative to engine block and chassis has low resistance.

Thats odd that you have another copy of the default parameter config in the Appdata directory, as far as I know you generally only have the Options2 file in there. Do you still have the old options2 file in your recycle bin that I could take a look at?