Adamw

Ok, typically if you have fuel and spark at somewhere near the right time there will be some signs of life when cranking. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn ignition on? Are the spark plugs wet with fuel if you pull them out after a start attempt?

If you wanted to ship the ecu and dash to NZ I could take a look at if the CAN output can be duplicated with our ECU - but really no guarantees that it can.

For a VR sensor the length of the tooth should be about the same as the diameter of the pole inside the sensor. Often this is about 4mm. If the pole is not externally visible (they often poke out the end) then you can get a feel for the diameter of the pole by dragging a paperclip across the end of the sensor and the magnetic bit is the pole. But the length of the teeth I dont think would stop it from running - it will more likely just stretch out the wave form and give you poor accuracy as per the pic below. So I still suspect it is more voltage related. Maybe there is some wheel runout or something. Can you reduce air gap to more like 0.5mm? I have shaved material off the plastic sensor mounting flange before to reduce air gap.

It doesnt look bad - at least there seems to be some resemblance to engine noise in the shape of the knock level logged. I would typically like the levels to be a bit higher to give more resolution and I would also typically have more margin between the average knock level and the set threshold than what you have. But overall it doesnt look a million miles off. Have you still got room to increase gain?

Your trigger scope does not show 12 teeth. Is the 12-1 wheel custom or factory? That could possibly be that arming threshold too high so some teeth are not reaching the threshold and therefore are ignored. 1mm air gap is a lot for a reluctor - 0.3mm is more typical. What specific sensor do you have and what are the trigger wheel teeth like?

You need to find the wire on the idle switch that goes back to pin 18 on the ECU, then move it from the idle switch to the centre pin of the TPS.

You can do that using one of the GP limit tables or by changing the RPM limit table to 3D as Vaughan has suggested. Attach your map if you cant work out how to do it and one of us will do the basics.

Charge temp is not intake air temp - it is the approximated temperature of the air that is entering the combustion chamber after it is heated by the hot port walls, intake valves etc. At low speeds charge temp will be close to water temp, at higher speeds/loads charge temp will be closer to air temp. If you are using traditional fuel equation (as per the base map) and you dont have charge temp correction enabled (the base map doesnt) then the charge temp means nothing, it will not influence fueling at all. In this case you should be looking at IAT (Intake air temperature).

No the MAF is not being used at all in our base map. Charge temp is a combination of air and water temp - do you have the charge temp approximation turned on and set up? What temperatures are you seeing and why do you believe they are wrong?

Put Ign angle on a time plot and you will see the issue. You go from ~6deg target timing in your idle ign table to 35ish in the main table when you blip it, so the extra 30 deg timing is enough extra torque to hold the RPM high. Various ways you could fix this such as allowing the idle ignition to kick in earlier but I think that may have some negative effects when driving. I think the best fix would be to drop the timing in these 3 cells in the main ign table quite a bit:

Yes it will work without the engine running. Can you attach the map from the ECU, the dash config, and a couple of pics of the wiring - I realise it will only be temporary wiring but just so we can confirm correct pins are being used etc.

On the rotaries using the leading wasted ignition mode it is important to verify the timing of L1 and both trailing plugs as it is possible to end up with the trailing 180deg out which can cause detonation. Since you have two marks this makes it fairly easy. Adjust your whole timing split table to -15. To do this, click at the grey square at the top left corner to select the whole table, then type "=-15" and hit enter. With the engine running, open the set base timing screen and lock the timing to -5. Clip the timing light on L1, and check that the front cover pointer lines up with the yellow mark - if not then adjust your offset up or down until it does. Next with the set base screen still open, and timing still locked at -5, move your timing light to T1, the red mark should line up. Then move timing light to T2, the red mark should still line up. If the red marks cant be seen when you are checking the trailing plugs then it means you are 180 out so just subtract 180 from your offset and check again.

Yes, the white wires in the shielded cables are for the trigger sensor grounds.

Interesting concept, In my previous life as a materials engineer I consulted to a company many years ago building an engine that from memory used a similar concept. Called the Shepherd Engine. It was a 2 stroke diesel and used a 240 deg sin wave cam to convert motion from the cylinders which oscillated back and forth over a stationary piston. https://youtu.be/PuT7d5oW5wc

Yes it is relatively common practice to do ECU controlled ignition only in forms of racing such as oval track and classic cars where regulations restrict you to carburetors only for induction. Advantages over conventional ignition systems are numerous, 3D, 4D or 5D mapped advance, idle ignition control, functions like engine protection, launch control, RPM limiting, logging, CAN to dashes etc... I suggest a crank trigger for best performance increase.

So just click on "CAN AN V2" in your custom stream and a little ... selection button will show up, click that and change it to CAN TC #*. Your TR will then be received as a TC of 0-150°C. You can then use that as a condition in a virtual aux to switch your E-throttle table and you can put it on your retard table too.

From my research it looks like it should be possible with no big challenges. The only feature I cant find much info about is the ECU controlled butterfly valve in the exhaust. So this is the main unknown - if you are not using the butterfly valve it will be no problem, if you want to keep the butterfly valve then we will need some technical info on how it works to confirm.

I suspect it will just be your DI offset set wrong. Follow the instructions in the help file for the cam angle test. (G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test) Run the test on LH Inlet, with a test pulse count of 4, record the lowest cam angle number displayed in the runtimes screen and use this for your offset on DI 1. Report back if that solves it.

Yeah that looks like a bit of a mess, I have changed many of the idle settings back to how they should be, try the file attached below and do another log if it is still no good. There is very little advance in your ignition table so that is going to make it feel very flat. Your lambda looks nowhere close to target. You also have the boost cut set at 130kpa so you are hitting that a lot. 4msbaserev4 fixed idle.pclr

Ok, with injectors that small I expect the master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger. Try changing it to about 25ms and see if there are any signs of life when cranking. If no signs of life then pull a spark plug out and check there is spark when cranking.

Yep, looking more like it now.

The wasted spark coils look like below, 3 of the spark plugs have a short HT lead from the coil to the plug, the other 3 spark plugs the coil sits directly on top. Do the injectors look like any of these: Or this:

Is the CAN message just an on/off signal (0 or 1), or is it some type of value that varys depending on how much TR is required?

Ok good stuff. What size injectors do you have? Does this engine have the wasted spark coils? Do you have a timing light handy?

Ok, we should probably try to diagnose the throttle problem now before going much further. Can you start a log recording then attempt the Throttle calibration, when it fails stop recording and save the log. That may give me some clues. Here is a video showing how to set up and start/stop the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A