Adamw

Dizzy will likely be like this: Ignitor and coil I think are same as 1UZ: For the IAC, ignition switched +12V to the center pin. Aux 1 to pin 3, Aux 2 to pin 1.

I kind of figured that since you were posting screenshots from the G4+ software in the G4+ forum. But what I meant was, is it an Atom, Monsoon, Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Kurofune, Thunder or plug-in? And if its a plug-in - which specific model plug-in?

It appears to be just an effect from logging to me and the power is being re-introduced at the correct point. Even though you are logging AN Volt 7 at 100Hz, if you look at my picture below using software with interpolation turned off, you can see there is only a step in voltage about every 20ms, im not sure on the reason for that. The point where power has been reintroduced is right in the middle of two data points received from the gear position sensor. If I draw a curve that touches each data point (green line) then you can see that the voltage on the gear position sensor was probably much closer to your 2.22v than the last data point of 2.47V that was logged before power was re-introduced.

The DCCD controller needs a tacho signal (DCCD pin A6) and a TPS signal (DCCD pin A2). The DCCD tacho signal splices to the same tacho signal wire that goes from the ecu to the dash (I have no idea where that splice is). The DCCD TPS I assume just splices into the main TPS signal that goes to the ECU somewhere too.

A common trap, set the disable digital input to off and you will be away.

I think there is more going on that that - it looks like there is a roughly 10Hz 5V square wave coming through on top of both of the trig 1 and trig 2 signals. Im not sure if that is coming from something else in the car or something the ECU is controlling - but it likely means the ECU doesnt have a proper power ground to the engine - so all ground current is passing through the trigger circuit. What ecu is it?

yes you will need to change the trigger settings to match the new engine.

The superseal pins are generally crimped rather than soldered - but yes if you connect the TC wires directly to the ecu then everything is rosy. The ECU has a temperature sensor inside so it does what is known as "cold junction compensation" which cancels out the effect of the dissimilar metals used for the ecu pins.

As you probably know its pretty hard to fund development of an engine yourself and equally hard to find people will to invest in an unproven engine idea. I was involved in some other very innovative engine ideas, some that progressed much further and where quite professionally managed but all I remember eventually faded away due to lack of funding. The coolest one I remember from an engineering perspective was a Z crank axial engine called Duke, lots of engineering challenges in that one, but it was working very well towards the end and met all their objectives, just no one wanted it.

Your map below converted to Fury IO. That is the best way, start it, then bump it up or down until it runs best. As a very rough ball park: 400cc inj start with master about 24ms 800cc injector about 12ms 1200cc around 8ms. Fury 1JZSetupmapv2.pclx

Not really enough info. What coils did you replace and what did you replace them with? Are the new coils known to have more energy than what you had?

If you have any intermediate connector between the cold junction (ecu) and the hot junction (tip of thermocouple) then its meant to have special Chromel/Alumel terminals, otherwise an offset will be generated at that connector junction. You can get Chromel/Alumel pins for DTM connectors but they are crazy expensive - like USD30 per pin. Not quite as nice but far more realistically priced are the common "K type" miniture TC plugs. Something like this: https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-sensor-accessories/4559764/

Does this sensor share a single ground wire for trig 1 & 2? Because your scope pic above shows trig 2 is wired back to front - that may mean trig 1 is back to front also if they share the same ground wire like most Toyota CAS's. But otherwise if you fix that the signal looks usable and the ecu should have no trouble running it. Why do you believe there is a trigger issue - do you not have RPM when cranking?

As per dx4picco's comment, it looks like the ecu had been set-up for flex fuel at some time in the past but now has no flex sensor assigned/connected so it has defaulted to the sensor fault value which is set at 0% ethanol - so it is effectively running on fuel table 1 and ignition table 1 only. If you are going to run just 1 fuel you can turn off the dual fuel table and dual ignition table to simplify things. If you want to run flex fuel then you would need to reconnect/assign a flex sensor and the typical tuning process is to drain the tank, fill with pure petrol, tune fuel table 1, then drain, fill with ethanol or E85 and tune fuel table 2.

What ecu do you have? Most of our ECU's (except Atom and Monsoon) have a scope function built-in.

The fuel pump should be running while cranking so the fuel pressure shouldnt drop while cranking, that suggests the pump is off or the is a blockage/lack of fuel etc. If you jump the fuel pump relay so it runs all the time does the fuel pressure remain at ~40psi when cranking.

The coil power supply is not from pin 118 or 121. Some models have a constant 12V supply to pin 121 from the same circuit as the coils but our ECU doesnt use that - pin 121 is connected to nothing. Pin 118 is the negative for the E-throttle motor so whatever you do, dont connect that to 12V, it will fry the ecu. The coil power comes from fuse#37 which is the main Motronic relay power supply.

File attached. Your single RPM launch is on GP RPM limit 1. Controlled by DI 10 on the Y axis, 0 means launch sw is off, 1 means launch switch on. So your launch RPM is the bottom cell, I have set it to 4500RPM in this case. 1965510389_Supramap with launch.pclr

For a supercharged engine you will definitely want an IAT sensor somewhere after the supercharger. Although a true MAF system doesnt actually need air temp to provide the correct amount of fuel, for speed-density (MAP based fuel) it is needed. In either case however the more important consideration is the engine is significantly more prone to knock as intake air temp increases so with a low efficiency blower putting lots of heat into the air it is important to compensate ignition timing as IAT increases.

Lets try calling on @Vaughan to see if he can offer any suggestions.

Ok, thats a bit different than your first screenshot where no log file was open. Do you have PC Link installed in the default C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X directory? It looks like your parameter config file might be messed up or not in an accessible location. Attached is the standard parameter file, please copy this into your G4X directory, overwritting the existing one. This file should be in the location C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X DefaultParameterConfig.rtcr

It says NO DATA beside everyone of those parameters you have on your time plot. That means either you dont have a log file open or the log file that you have open doesnt have those channels logged. And BTW, you should load the new Default 1366 x 768 layout (or the 1920 x 1080 if you have highres screen) as it has been improved a lot from the old one you are using there.

You will need to use the CAN option. On the realdash website are the supported devices, there are two bluetooth/CAN options and two low cost USB/CAN options. If you go back a page you will find a pre-configured .xml file from me for the built-in Dash2pro stream so you dont need to do and configuration on your own. http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

So which DI do you want for rolling antilag and which one for launch? In your map now you have latched launch assigned to the clutch switch which isnt going to work.

Update your thunder to the latest firmware. You are on 5.6.5 which is about 3 years old. The Aim MXS CAN stream was only added into the firmware in 5.6.6 from memory.