Adamw

Yeah that looks like a bit of a mess, I have changed many of the idle settings back to how they should be, try the file attached below and do another log if it is still no good. There is very little advance in your ignition table so that is going to make it feel very flat. Your lambda looks nowhere close to target. You also have the boost cut set at 130kpa so you are hitting that a lot. 4msbaserev4 fixed idle.pclr

Ok, with injectors that small I expect the master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger. Try changing it to about 25ms and see if there are any signs of life when cranking. If no signs of life then pull a spark plug out and check there is spark when cranking.

Yep, looking more like it now.

The wasted spark coils look like below, 3 of the spark plugs have a short HT lead from the coil to the plug, the other 3 spark plugs the coil sits directly on top. Do the injectors look like any of these: Or this:

Is the CAN message just an on/off signal (0 or 1), or is it some type of value that varys depending on how much TR is required?

Ok good stuff. What size injectors do you have? Does this engine have the wasted spark coils? Do you have a timing light handy?

Ok, we should probably try to diagnose the throttle problem now before going much further. Can you start a log recording then attempt the Throttle calibration, when it fails stop recording and save the log. That may give me some clues. Here is a video showing how to set up and start/stop the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Ok, trigger looks acceptable now. Do you get realistic and stable RPM in the software now when cranking? Say between 150-250RPM?

Yes that would be correct. Just highlight all the cells you want to adjust like you have in the pic and type -4 and hit enter. Dont forget to do a store afterwards.

Correct. Can you attach the log so I can take a look. I suspect it is just interpolation and missing data points but I would like to look for some clues myself.

I would stick with the V5-6 map as that will match the bulk of your pinout. Open the V7-9 map up side by side and copy across any of the AVCS stuff.

Pin 38 is the power from the main ECCS relay, so it sounds like that possibly isnt engaging. Can you measure voltage on pin 36 both in run position and when cranking. We will diagnose the power supply issue before worrying about the AC as they may be related.

The triggerscope shows no data, did you click capture while it was actually cranking? Can you try again?.

That seems very odd. I think to rule out a whole lot of possibilities I would power it up on the bench with just 12V on pin 5 and gnd on 34 and see if firmware update goes smoother then. If not then I would be suspicious there is an issue with the USB chip. However, if it does appear reliable on the bench then I would start unplugging other devices in the car or get a scope on the power supply to see what is going on. It sounds almost like excessive AC ripple from a bad alternator diode or something but that would only be in effect when engine is running. The .18 firmware does have some extra comms recovery strategies built in to help in noisy situations but it sounds like this is more serious than a small interruption.

I suspect your CAS voltage may not be quite reaching your arming thresholds. Can you change both trig 1 & 2 arming thresholds to match below and try again:

Its meant to stop the engine right away - as soon as the ignition switch DI goes off it cuts fuel and spark. The only thing that should stay alive is the ECU.

You are pretty limited in what you can do with CAN AN V channels. What else are you doing with CAN AN V2 - is it torque reduction only? If you could swap it to CAN DI or CAN TC#8 for instance, then you will be able to switch your E-throttle table with it.

sure.

I suspect that is the MAP sensor? Im not particularly knowledgeable on the Subaru's, but your original one is probably on the strut tower or firewall. You can either keep your original one or move the wires from the original to the new one.

Yeah, try more gain. It is unusual to need that much gain so it may suggest there is a wire broken or bad connection but try increasing it and see if you get a signal that looks like it represents knock.

In G4+ the "trigger 2 VVT" setting only applied if the cam that was connected to trigger 2 had VVT, the K20 doesnt have VVT on the exhaust so that setting wasnt relevant. In G4X all VVT settings are moved to the VVT folder - and obviously there are only intake VVT settings for this engine. Your G4X trigger settings will look something like below:

I dont have a monsoon to test but I can ask one of the other guys at work to if we suspect there is a problem. Hold power is working fine in both my cars though. So it sounds more like a backfeed. If its not a big job, can you unplug all other devices that are connected to aux outputs and see if it then shuts down ok. ISC and VVT would just be a matter of unplugging the solenoids, fuel pump and fan would be pulling the relay.

Correct, switch the position of those two wires with each other. I dont have one of those specific plugs to look at, but typically you need to poke something like a safety pin or jewelers screewdriver into the pin side and lift the little barb/tang up to free the terminal. Pic from google:

The ABS sensor should work connected direct to a DI, the pull-up will need to be off. The DI needs to see a bit over 1V so ABS sensors often wont reach that level and start working until over about 20kmh. Did you reach that speed when testing? But yes, the R33 VSS would be a better option as you may exceed the max frequency of the DI at high speed with an ABS sensor too.

You will need to give a bit more detail on what you have wired and which pump you want to work under what conditions. Attach your tune too.