Adamw

I would probably set the frequency to 25Hz in the boost control settings, but apart from that it will just be tuning.

Notice also about a minute before it stopped in the "unknown failure" log the lambda pegged full lean as well? It may indicate a ground has come off or something? Does it have spark when your cranking? Although there is definately something with the trigger it is not fully happy about, I dont think that is all of the problem - maybe more a symptom. From the cranking log it appears to have all it needs for fuel and spark so I would still expect some signs of life.

1 wire to aux output, other to ign switched +12V source

I have never needed to do any more than a single VE table. Sometimes you will need to tickle up the final VE table after VVT has been tuned but usually it tends to take care of itself. If you find the need then you can turn on a 4D fuel table and put cam position on one axis to perform a fuel correction based on cam pos.

No, you will need a wideband controller as well. This doesnt necessarily have to be a Link CAN lambda, there are many 3rd party 0-5V analog and also 3rd party CAN options, but the Link CAN Lambda does work well. The CAN wires need to be twisted but dont need to be shielded. They are fine bundled along side other wires. If using a Link CAN lambda you will need a 120ohm terminating resistor across the two CAN wires near the lambda connection and I would also install the 22uF capacitor across the power wires as per the quick start guide since you arent using a dedicated relay. Pressure sensors are 3 wires - 5V, sensor ground and signal. They donot need to be shielded. You can often splice into the 5V and ground to the TP sensor or MAP sensor. No shield needed. What model car is it?

Generally TP works better for cam control in my experience. Many tuners still use MAP or MGP as the load axis for VVT so cam position is referencing the same variable as the fuel (VE) table lookup which should in theory make tuning the VE table easier - so it is fine to do it that way if you wish. It does work ok. But in my experience in some operating regions, especially light throttle this can cause a self perpetuating cam position oscillation and when it does happen you can feel the torque oscillating with it while driving. This is because moving the cam changes the MAP, so having MAP also controlling the commanded cam position is not ideal.

Import the table attached will be a decent starting point VVTi Inlet Target.lte

This is just one I made up but it wont be far away. 4age20v.pclx

I think the main problem is the accel enrichment cold correction table was all zeros so there was no accel enrichment. I have fixed that in the attached file and turned on async injection which will make life easier too. Afterignadjidlesmoothingplusoilpressure V1.0.pclx

For a variable frequency or variable duty cycle you can set up the DI as GP Frequency, this will give you then give you Frequency and duty runtimes that you can use to switch a virtual aux or on axes of tables etc.

The triggerscope mostly doesnt look too bad. I see 24 trigger 1 teeth for every trigger 2 tooth. Whats the engine? Can you do a log of it cranking? And attach your map.

Ok, both trig 2 and DI 1 are needed. DI2 is not needed and not used. The wire coming out the top side of the vanos unit is the advance solenoid (aux 4) and the wires out the bottom are the retard solenoid (aux 3). Map attached below with most of the basics set up. Once you have the engine running you will need to turn on the LH Cam angle test (use test pulse count of 8) and use that to determine the offset number for DI1. This procedure is explained in the help file page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test S50B30 V1.pclr

Yes the temp side uses the Bosch Std NTC calibration. For the pressure use this:

Probably the most appropriate would be the orignial front Oxy sensor inputs. Pin 35 is the RF sensor signal, it is connected to Link input AN Volt 10 Pin 16 is the LF sensor signal , it is connected to Link input AN Volt 11.

I dont sorry. Its a pretty simple ECU by todays standards, and I would expect anyone who is familar with common aftermarket ecus shouldnt have any difficultly. You could try contacting our USA sales office to see if any of those guys have a suggestion. https://www.linkecu.com/about/contact/

As far as I know the G4 or G4 + driver should work with the G3. If you right click on the unknown device and choose uninstall and then remove the driver when it asks if you want to delete it, then re-plug, does it then still get identified as unknown? If you ring our UK tech support number you might get Dave around this time that could possibly take a look on team viewer.

Yeah doesnt seem like good odds. The "freezing" would typically suggest an interruption to comms. The only other time I have seen it is when there is a trigger problem/error the G4X software slows down a lot or temporarily freezes - I assume while it puts all processing priority into re-syncing. When you say "freezing" is it just temporary while at WOT and it recovers when you lift off? Is it just PC Link or it the whole laptop frozen? What sort of cars are have you had this on? Do they have resistor plugs & leads if fitted? Have you tried the laptop on both AC and battery to see if that makes any difference? Are you on a dyno (hub or roller?) or road tuning?

Ok, I had a quick look. Assuming you have 2 times E-throttles? Im not sure if you have any of the below connected to the C & D plugs but I will mention them anyway: You will need 2 extra aux outputs assigned as E-throttle relay 1 & 2. Your 4 TPS sensors will need 5V and gnds. You will need a gnd out to the AP sensor. Fuel pressure needs a gnd out. Oil pressure needs a 5V and a gnd out. You've got no aux assigned as Fan.

All of the green wires are sensor grounds. The one in the TPS bundle would typically be the sensor ground for a TPS sensor - but if you have already wired your throttle then that bundle is not needed. You can use that "TPS" bundle which has a 5v, Gnd and a AN volt for anything you like - for instance fuel pressure if you wish.

Yep, 5V per division is for measuring the signal with an oscilloscope. Connect ignition switched +12V to one side of the solenoid and the other side to an aux output.

No, the power to the ecu in a GTR is controlled by the ignition switch, so as soon as you turn of the ignition the ECU is dead.

There are at least two problems; Either the throttle is open too far or there is a big leak. Right after start up the closed loop idle control has fully closed the idle valve trying to bring the idle down but it is still sitting 200RPM above target with the valve fully closed. So assuming the idle valve does actually work this means the air is coming from somewhere else. It doesnt look like idle control has been tuned at all. The rev hangs after the blip because the idle valve jumps to 48.5% which is the value in your base position table. Obviously if it cant reach target with the valve fully closed - then its definately not going to reach target with the valve open at 48%. This at least suggests the valve is working. Because the RPM then goes above the RPM lockout the closed loop idle control will not try to close the valve on its own. So, fist step is to unplug the valve with the engine running, then set up the throttle so that the idle speed is somewhere about 100RPM lower than target. This will give you a good place to start tuning the base position table from.

1 to 1, 2 to 2 etc. Cylinders are numbered as below:

What makes you think it is 5V? Your schematic shows a traditional solenoid so it is far more likely powered by battery voltage (~14V).

There are no Aux 9/10 connections to the E-throttle controller on that particular ECU so you cant connect E-throttle directly as is. You have two options - one is the external E-throttle module, which needs 1 signal from any aux 1-4 and 1 signal from any aux 5-8. The second option is to return the ECU to Link and they can modify it by adding some wire links etc to make Aux 9/10 available via a couple of flying leads. That ecu is pretty short on spare aux outputs so the modification option is probably the better way to go if you have so time up your sleeve. Its a relatively low cost mod but needs to be shipped to NZ and back and typically takes about a week to do.