Adamw

The 2GR cam sensors have a weak/low voltage output, so they need a stronger pull-up than the internal one s in the ecu. Each cam will need its own pull-up. 1K for the cam connected to trigger 2 input, 2.2K for all the other cams. The temp sensor will be fine with the internal pull-up.

In terms of dual channel the only one I really have experience with is the Motec LTCD. They seem reliable but are a bit pricey. HV Electronics have a dual channel one which seems reasonable on paper but I have no personal experience. @Ducie54 was using a couple from memory, he may have some feedback. Neither of these will provide much in the way of native error/status reporting. I believe the new Haltech one has a mode that is compatible with Link but again have no personal experience. The old silver cased ones were very slow, not sure if that has been improved in the newer one. Otherwise you can buy two Link Lambdas for about the same $ as the LTCD but will give full integration in terms of status/errors etc. Also maybe worth considering the 14point7 spartan 3 - has worked well for me on several budget cars.

The CAN bus is more robust with proper termination. It will unlikely be a problem since you arent transmitting lots of data but if you start having comms problems that would be the first thing to fix.

Why cant the dealer help you? That code you have posted above is not the correct code for SN1635. Our system has no record of a dealer requesting the code for G4+ serial number 1635.

Yes, it should be close to 12V when off and 0V when on. The fact that is is outputting only 5V suggests there is a hardware issue there.

To import the VVT table, right click on your VVT table in PC link, go to >import/export > import from file, then choose this new table file. For the VVT problem, please attach the log and tune.

I would expect both crank and cam are reluctor sensors and the crank pattern is likely 36-2. Cam pattern is unknown to me. Can you set triggermode to 1JZ VVTi and do a triggerscope while cranking, I will then advise proper settings after looking at that.

B25 not working does sound like possible a hardware issue. They are all extensively tested before leaving HQ though so it was at least working when it left NZ. You can send it back for inspection if you like. I cant see how it would be related to your connection or speed issue but give us an update after a few days.

Yes, that sounds good. Those coils pull about 4-8A max at typical NA dwell times. Both grounds should go to the cyl head - I believe one is secondary winding ground and the other is the ignitor ground.

It will most likely be your trigger offset wrong. With a distributor your offset can be 180, 360 or 540 out and the engine will still run as the rotor will always send the spark to the correct cylinder. With direct spark only the correct offset will work. You have -23 as an offset now - so try 337.

Its in the help file: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information > AEM X-Series UEGO gauge.

Someone like Element 14 or RS components should have them within a couple of days, otherwise any Link dealer can get you a CANPCB next day.

Ok thats odd. Try assigning a different aux to engine fan 1 output, do a store, then change it back to Inj 7 to see if that changes anything.

Have you set the fault settings correctly? Usually low of 0.05v and high of 4.95v

Just the name of the analog inputs in the software since the G3 had the first three that were labelled "load inputs" . So, G3 pin originally labelled "Load 1" is now AN Volt 1 in G4 software. G3 pin Load 2 is AN Volt 2. G3 pin Load 3 is AN Volt 3. G3 pin AN Volt 1 is now AN Volt 4 in the G4 software.

The pinout matches and your set up looks correct. You should see ground on B25 when you set ign 7 to test on, assuming active state is set to low. If you ground pin B25 with a paper clip poked in the back of the plug or similar does the fan come on?

Yes that will be easy with TP as the reference for VE and VVT.

Temp are typically 2 wires, signal and sensor ground.

AFR should be 2DP, Lambda will be 3.

You will have to load your own map back in or you can use the S15 basemap that is in PC Link and start from scratch.

Im not sure to be honest. Those AC control units are a black box of magic with more electronics than the space shuttle inside. It might be a question for a subaru specific forum. But as far as I know, the AC unit needs no interaction from the engine ecu.

I would guess due to the hardware ID being messed up that you have a dead USB chip in the ecu. It will have to go back to Link HQ in NZ for repair.

Oil shouldnt worry a reluctor

That wire is not your problem, it is only used as a signal to the ecu to force the alternator out of low voltage/economy mode. It is not connected to anything in our WRX104 ecu as our ecu doesnt control the alternator - it just runs in normal mode all the time. It is the AC control module that grounds that wire to turn the blower relay on.

I would probably set the frequency to 25Hz in the boost control settings, but apart from that it will just be tuning.