Adamw

You wont be able to duplicate a 26 byte frame. The G4+ only allows a max of 8byte frames. Stacking multiple smaller frames end on end isnt the same as sending a single long frame. This is because there is a whole lot of extra data being transmitted before and after each frame as part of the arbitration negotiations and things like error checking, checksums etc.

No the ecu will not tell if it is misfiring or what cylinder is misfiring. Scrutinizing a data log file may hold clues however or at least help you eliminate some possibilities. I suggest you do a datalog of a run and attach it here along with the map. How to Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Look at the sample above again, there is no polarity setting in the example either. An ignition drive will always be low side.

The boost control was set up pretty weird in that map you attached but your log said open loop so I assume you changed to closed loop after the log? it didnt appear to be doing anything weird anyway, but I would stick to open loop with the same value through the whole WG table until you get it sorted. 25Hz is normally best for a common mac valve.

Connect to the ecu, then go >file>open and choose that file. Click yes when it asks if you want to load the file or something to that effect. Do a store afterwards.

From that Im not convinced the idle valve is actually working. In the attached tune I have made some adjustments to close the valve more to see if it has any influence. Can you load this map in and give it a try. Try this.pcl

There is no idle valve assigned so the last user probably didnt have one. The RPM bouncing around is it hitting the over-run fuel cut. Go into Aux outputs an set Aux 5 ,6, 7 & 8 to ISC Stepper so it looks like below. Then do a store (Control+S), then turn off ignition for about 10 seconds (to home the idle valve) before turning back on and restarting. Do another log then so we can see if it is closer.

Can you attach a log and tune.

Its not really the boost dropping at 6000, but you have a really odd oscillation below 6000. To me it looks more mechanical like the BOV is bouncing open and closed or something. If you turn aux 6 off (or unplug boost sol), does the boost curve look more stable?

Probably attaching a copy of the tune and a log would be a good place to start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Map and log. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Ok, try the attached. Make sure you are using the latest Race studio 3 and latest firmware in your dash. The screen set-up in your dash config looked a bit messed up on my PC so I suspect you maybe on an old firmware. There are many new screens added in later versions. I have just set up one basic page with an icon for TC, and alarm message for TC and a flashing LED when TC is off. justin1.8t NewCAN1.0.pclr Millsys25 Eth and TC.zconfig

Yes, this was discussed in this thread: So, at present it does work correctly if you have an ecu connected but doesnt work correctly when offline as you have found. It will be fixed soon.

If you are using traditional fuel mode the charge temp compensation can be turned on/off (in fuel main settings). In modelled mode it is always active. So if you are using traditional mode and the charge temp correction is turned off then it wont be used. The number will still be calculated in the background, but it wont have any affect on fueling.

Key-on option is not going to work if you have no fuel pressure. Your best solution would be to wire a signal from the starter solenoid to a DI so you can use the "Start position" option. Otherwise you can try increasing the crank enrichment instead. The "First crank enrich" happens as soon as the ecu sees the engine start to turn, remains active for one crank revolution, and is a multiplier on top of the crank enrich table so it should give you scope to get a fair bit more fuel in there. Also make sure the cells in the main fuel table that are in action during cranking are realistic as all enrichments are based on these.

That doesnt help much. If it is one of the older non x-series such as 30-4100 then your cal table is wrong, it should look like this: If it is one of the X-series models then it is still wrong, just set the analog input calibration to "AEM X-series".

Start by doing a log of it running and attach that and your tune here. Does adjusting master fuel up or down make it run any better? How to Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

There are two different versions of the "G4+ Storm", they are generally referred to as "Storm Blue" and "Storm Black". The original blue storm is older, from memory discontinued around 2015, it was in the extruded blue case with a single 34 pin connector. It had most of the same functions (knock control etc) as the current Storm black, but less inputs and outputs. The Storm black has 2 x 34pin connectors so more inputs and outputs. Old Blue Storm: Current Black Storm:

Sounds like you might need more fuel. Try increasing the master fuel number by about 50%. If that doesn’t help then attach your tune and log.

What error is lambda 1 error reporting?

Usb, no delay. Bluetooth serial adapter, no delay. Bluetooth via OBD2 adapter I would say noticable delay.

It would probably be better to tune it with the lambda probe rather than go off your nose. Having said that your lambda calibration looks wrong, what wideband controller do you have?

That doesnt appear to be your dash config, it should have a file extension .zconfig. To get your config, in race studio3, go to the configs page (gear icon) then put a tick in the checkbox for your config, then click export.

As far as I know nothing has changed related to the gear detection code for many years. Lets start by attaching a log of a short drive and your tune.