Adamw

If you want Aux 3 to activate whenever you hit DI4, then below would be how it should be set up.

I think it is unlikely a fault could make one CAN value read wrong, more likely a firmware/bug/software/scaling issue. Here is a guide how to do the firmware update: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/firmware/rel_histories/MXx_EVOx_Solo2Solo2DL_MyChron5_FirmwareUpdate_101_eng.pdf Before you do that, check your RS3 version at the top left of your screen as shown below, there was a big update just recently, the current is 3.30.11 or 12. If yours is older you can update on the same "cloud" page as the firmware. After updating dash firmware, go to the dash config, ecu stream tab and check the version number after the ECU protocol as below, it should be 2.00.05:

Dont believe everything you read on the internet... Yeah, try the new table I suggested. A lumpy idle should not cause a trigger error. Do the triggerscope first before changing anything, this should show what is wrong.

Oh yes I see that now. This message is generally nothing to worry about. They put this message in when a new triggermode hasnt been tested in-house on an actual engine or by a trusted dealer. Sometimes the trigger decoder is built based on info supplied by an end user so they attach this warning until they have feedback that it is working correctly. So do you not get a pulse on your noid light when connected to ignition 1 with ign mode set to distributor? In the meantime I will ask Simon to pass your triggerscope on to the engineers to check it matches the pattern they have been testing but all signs in your log point to the ecu being happy with your trigger.

I suspect deadtimes as wrong. I have used similar deadtimes to you with those injectors before without drama but it was with methanol so it wouldnt have had as much influence. After a bit of a search tonight I would try deadtimes more like this: More importantly, your log shows lots of trigger errors, it would not be a good idea to give the engine a hard time like this. Can you attach a triggerscope done at idle.

Remind me, did you ever get the EMP going? I see there is still that stream 3 which I set up for diagnostics which may not be needed now.

I just loaded your tune into a G4 and connected a CAN sniffer, the ECU is sending the data out correctly as shown below. On your facebook post I asked if your dash was on the latest firmware, are you sure it is? AIM made some changes to the oil and fuel press settings about a year ago. Make sure you are using the latest RS3 and latest firmware, you can check by clicking the cloud icon in RS3.

That is a G1 based ecu. It is about 20 years old. Im pretty sure all the Integralink ECU's were laptop tunable but you will need a "Serial Link" box and either a laptop with a serial port or a USB>serial adapter. You will find a manual for it in the G1 section of the forum here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2527. Tuning software is on the Link website, PC Link V2.5. There will not be many tuners around that are interested in tuning them anymore so you will probably have to shop around.

Correct, only aux 5/6/7/8 can drive a stepper motor. This is a hardware limitation. Im not a subaru guy so cant answer the question on if there are other solenoid type idle valves that will fit easily, but from an electrical perspective that would be the best way forward.

Yes, converting your G3 map to G4 however is not automated. You need to open both the G3 and G4 software side by side and copy the settings from one to the other. All the tables etc can be copy/pasted but it does take about an hour to do it. I will PM you a bit more detail of the update process and and the CAN mod.

These are a DC servo, similar to a DBW throttle. There is no way to drive this directly with a Link ECU at this time. You could possibly do it with a 3rd party motor controller but I have never tried. Something like this maybe: https://www.basicmicro.com/Roboclaw-Solo-30A-Motor-Controller_p_44.html

You didnt attach the tune so Im working a bit blind but I dont see anything in the log that would suggest the ECU is not commanding spark or fuel. There are no cuts, you have RPM, adequate dwell, no trigger errors, good injector pulse width, etc. How are you determining there is no injector/ignition pulse? Are you sure there is 12V at the coil and injectors when cranking?

I’m not sure how to make it any clearer, the ecu has an onboard baro sensor, you do not need to wire your own. This is separate/in addition to the onboard MAP.

B27 & 28 is CAN2, your setup above shows CAN1.

As Simon wrote above, the ecu already has a baro sensor built in, you do not need to add your own.

Please do a short pc log of it cranking and attach a copy of the tune. Also can you do a trigger scope when cranking and attach here.

I mean where are you connected to on the ECU?

Ideally the comms ground in the link comms plug would be connected to the AIM ground - but I suspect even if not connected it would find a path through the chassis anyhow so dont think that is your problem. This is a bit of a guess as the info is scarce, but reading between the lines I think there may be a baud rate issue. It looks to me like the G3 had a fixed baud rate of 57600, where as the MXL was fixed at 19200. A user configurable baud rate was only added to the Link ECU firmware in later G4 versions. It looks like the "Vipec Adapter" that is mentioned in some documentation (G3 via Vipec) converted the baud rate from 57600 to 19200. I think you will have to upgrade your G3 to G4 firmware to make it work. Once upgraded to G4 firmware you can also do a small hardware mod to enable CAN which is nicer to use than serial. There is a cost of about NZD$200 for the unlock code to install G4 firmware in the G3 but it gives you a much more functional ECU.

Sounds like you are either only looking at 1 byte or your endianess is set wrong. The CAN TC parameter is capable of reading up to 10000°C. You can use the test calculator tab of the CAN setup screen to see how any parameter works. For a CAN DI it is as you assumed, 0 = off, 1 = On.

I agree, it would be nice to have a more configurable driver warning light function. Some ecu's I work with have a table or check list where you can select which situations or sensors will trigger a warning. @Davidv. I know its not exactly what you want, but just in case you didnt think of this, I often do something like below to give the CE light output multiple functions:

Something like this will do:

What does that mean? Do you have RPM displayed when cranking? What does it have for an ignition system - what coils and ignitors? What does the message say?

The Link CAN is very flexible, you can use any ID you like, 29bit or 11bit, any common bit rate and the message can be formatted however you like. Most commonly with commercially available EGT amps they send each EGT channel as 2 bytes. This means you can fit 4 channels per CAN frame. Depending on the resolution you want another option would be to multply the values by 5 and send as a single byte - then you fit 8 channels in one frame. EGT would then move in steps of 5deg but thats probably as accurate as it needs to be. Note the CAN setup in Link uses decimal rather than hex for the ID. So for instance a device with ID 0x3E8 (hex) would be set up in Link as ID 1000. Below is as example for 4 EGT's coming in on ID1552 (610hex), 2bytes, Intel or LSB: You can then use the EGT's in the ECU however you like. You can just log them, you can send them to a dash or display on a dash page in PC link, or you can set up a limiter or a fuel trim, ign trim, boost trim, warning light, etc if say any cyl goes above a certain value, you can use them on the axis of almost any table or conditions for auxes etc...

I dont think that will work if your device is using TTL, TTL uses 0V for a binary 0, 3.3V for a 1. RS232 is -10V for 1, +10V for 0. i.e you not only need to reduce the voltage but you also need to offset it below zero and invert it. This is typically done with something like a MAX3232 IC. When I worked at Link the engineers were experimenting with Bluetooth for sometime and they said it was really only useful for a dash type app, it was way too slow for PCLink to be useful. I suspect there is much more data moving between the PC/ECU than the very basic megasquirt.

In realdash/edit/AFR/Input&Values, Go to the analog input that you are using, click edit, find the multiplier. Multiply the existing value by 14.7. For example if the existing multiplier is 0.01, your new multiplier will be 0.01 x 14.7 = 0.147