Adamw

What are you planingto do with it? Is it just a street cruiser or does it need any motorsport functions? What is the ITB linkage set up like - is it likely to need dual bank lambda control (poor linkage) or is it something professional that is likely to have good balanced airflow side to side?

Can you do a trigger scope and attach it here so we can confirm that both crank and cam signal look ok and match your settings. Does the m54 have non-amplified coils like the M50?

It wouldn’t be impossible but it is a pretty special ecu in that machine, I think from memory it has all the power rectification circuitry for the charging system, special high current drivers for the fuel pump and power valves, special trigger modes to allow the engine to run in reverse etc. Best to contact Link to get it tested and see if it is repairable.

@oversteer to do an accurate test you need to check by measuring voltage between ecu pin A5 and A34. You need to do this with everything connected so you need to back-probe by pushing a pin or needle in from the wire side through the seal etc until it touches the terminal inside. Have your laptop open and connected and compare voltage on volt meter to that in pc link at same time.

Then one option is to swap that switch for a proper pressure sensor. You can then connect a spare aux output to the old oil press switch wire and use the ecu to switch your oil press light on when the oil press is low.

Does it have a factory oil pressure gauge or is that just the pressure switch for the warning light?

A24, A7, B17, B22 are all suitable as sensor grounds. The Link looms have trigger grounds connected to A7. Most sensors are very low current so there is not usually any practical electrical limitation to how many can be connected to 1 pin. The limitation is usually more the logistics of how many wires you can splice together, I typically don’t like splicing more than about 5 wires with the automotive thickness wire or about 7 if using mil/tefzel.

The plugin ecus are very similar to an xtreme in terms of functionality so they offer pretty good bang for buck. The disadvantage however is you can be limited by the amount of useful/spare I/O available due to the fixed factory pinout and pin functions. The V3/4 is very similar to the v1/2 in terms of I/o available but both are a bit limiting. Neither has DBW auxes available and only 4 extra analog inputs on the expansion connector. One option is through your dealer you can ask Link to modify a plug-in by manually adding some wires to make the DBW aux 9/10 and a few extra analog inputs available for a small extra charge. Otherwise the Xtreme or Fury are good options but consider wiring a wire-in ecu will typically add at least the cost of the ecu on top. I suggest you download the manuals for the wrx plugins and have a look at the pin function list and the expansion connector pinouts, then make a list of what you need and whether there is enough I/O available

Your cam signal only drops down to 1V, the threshold is right on 1V so it won't be happy unless it drops further (ground is 0V so it should get near zero if wiring is correct). I would say most likely either the ground is bad or the pull-up resistor is the wrong value.

Setup pic attached below.. Trigger offset will have to be determined with a timing light.

Can you attach the tune from the ecu.

Attach the tune and log so we can see.

Yep it works with G4+ fine. I will post a stream file for it when I’m back from holiday.

You need to have the “set base timing “ screen open when you do that so that the timing is locked to a known value while you check/adjust it.

The 908 is the standalone model, it is very basic but will probably work ok for a very basic car. I had one sent to me a year or so ago to assess for a friend that was building 3 identical low cost race cars. I will attach a video of a basic test I done for him to give you a bit of a feel for it. i think the 903 or 904 is obd2 so although they may work directly connected to the ecu and be a bit simpler hook up I told him to avoid those and stick with the standalone version because cheap Chinese OBD2 devices rarely work as expected. Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OIKmVw0ZuQ8xPO6nyq9goN7Gp9bYLMKr/view?usp=drivesdk

Most of what you need is in the help file I think. Is it a twin dizzy model? What specific bits do you need help with?

Probably a bit of both, have you followed all the steps in the manual - checked all sensors are reading correct, calibrated MAP & TPS, set base timing, adjusted master fuel, etc?

Did you download Vi-PEC VTS software or Link G4? if you click on ok when that error pops up, go to help>ecu information and tell me what maincode firmware version it has.

I would set the power valve high to something below idle also as a test. If you get no voltage from 29/30 with that test then I would suggest you email [email protected] for their advice (may be on holiday now). As far as I know the arctic cat ecu is fully encapsulated in epoxy so may not be serviceable.

With 36-1 you will have more stable timing at low speeds (not usually a big benefit except with high comp engines), but the main benefit is you will have much less timing drift during rapid acceleration. With a low tooth count you get significantly more advance than commanded during engine acceleration so you often need a more conservative ignition map to keep knock under control during acceleration which will consequently affect power at steady state also. How much difference it makes is anyone’s guess but on the few examples I have done where I have tuned before and after it is always noticeable and worthwhile.

You can also use one of these: https://modifry.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_59index.htm&product_id=233

With load = BAP, you are controlling the amount of fuel to inject based on throttle position alone, so when the idle valve opens and lets extra air in, the ecu doesn’t know so can’t add the correct amount of fuel to compensate. With load = MAP, the ecu looks at both TP and MAP, when the idle valve opens, MAP increases so the ecu adds the proportional amount of fuel to keep the mixture close to target. The mixture map will still work, make sure you are logging MAP.

Sorry, I don’t normally use that pic host but sometimes have to when my normal one is not available. I’m overseas for a couple of weeks but should still have that pic at home or I can do the test again and redraw something. Give me a reminder in about 10 days.

Sorry, no it slipped off my radar. I’m overseas for about another 10 days so give me a reminder again then.

You have what is often referred to as a “high level” tacho, it is designed to work off the 40-200v kick that comes out of the primary side of the coil everytime there is a spark. It won’t work directly from the 5v signal available from a smart coil or the 12v signal that is available from an ecu aux output. There are two options: 1. Easiest is a tacho booster, I’m guessing you’re In Aussie so Race parts sells a reasonably cheap one. You just connect the booster between an ecu aux out and the original tacho wire. 2. The other option is to modify the tacho to allow it to work directly from the lower voltage signal. This is often a fairly simple mod such as replacing a resistor so is fine if you are capable of doing yourself but is not cost effective if you need to pay someone to do it.