Adamw

Most pressure sensors output 0.5V for zero pressure, so if you remove that offset, your difference is more like 20%. Are you sure it was a 300psi sensor? If its a 300psi sensor and you only have a max of 1.2V signal, that suggest your compression is only about 70psi.

Ok, that helps. Still, as mentioned earlier the Link cant natively send a PWM out via CAN. As a work around however we can achieve that by using a PWM aux fed into a DI, then send the DI frequency out over CAN. Do you have a spare PWM capable aux and DI that we can use? Attach your tune and I will set it up.

Can you try another log with the following changes: Stage 1 duty 85% Stage 2 on 55Kpa Stage 3 delay 0.5sec Derivative gain 1.5

If you can get the config from the motec dash that will help a lot.

that sounds ok to me.

Obviously it is not going to work when your cal table is set to KPa and every cell has a zero in it. For a linear sensor such as a wideband device you should use cal 4, 5 or 6 and set it as below.

Ignition mode needs to be set to Chispa Perdida - wasted spark, not direct spark. AFR is not needed and will not prevent the engine from running.

Pretty much. You need to configure the CAN settings also. There is a set up guide for the X series in the help file under G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information Pinout for the CAN socket in the help file is not as clear as it could be as there is no indication of which pin is #1, so below is a pic to help.

Did you not notice this warning that pops up in the middle of the screen every time you connect the ECU? Your ECU is locked. You need to get the unlock code off the dealer you purchased it off before it will run an engine. Of course the MAP sensor does need to be connected to the manifold.

I dont think you are going to be able to get acceptable boost control if 65% gives nothing and 70% is over boost. What type of wastegate is it? Can you do a picture of how it is plumbed.

Unlikely. Attach a pic of you AN Volt 5 settings and the cal table you have assigned.

Yes

You will need to set ignition mode to wasted spark since the blue ECU only has 4 ignition outputs. Make sure Ign 1 is wired to coils 1&6, Ign 2 is wired to coils 5&2 and Ign 3 is connected to 3&4.

You have both AN Volt 1 and AN Volt 5 set to MAP sensor. For Storm blue if you are using the internal MAP sensor it should be AN Volt 5, you need to turn AN Volt 1 off. Because MAP is reading wrong (220Kpa with engine off), the ECU is applying MAP limit ignition cut (boost cut). After turning off AN Volt 1 please confirm MAP reads same as BAP with engine not running.

Start with the 1UZ VVTi base map that is supplied with PC Link. Go to the help file page >Engine Specific Information > Toyota >Toyota 1UZ-FE, copy the trigger settings from that page into the VVt map. Change the ignition mode to twin distributor and you will be ready to go.

What model plug-in is it? It sounds like it is not powered up, if you pull the lid off the case, do you see an LED glowing on the top board when ign is on? Edit: just answered my own question by reading the title lol. The rest of my comment still applies though - confirm it is powered up by looking for the light. If not powered up, one problem I have seen before on skylines is the connector not seated properly - even though the centre bolt is done up all the way sometimes the ends of the connector can bend out.

Post the log and tune. Can’t tell much from a screenshot.

It is going to be a bit of a tough ask. Their document doesnt cover the J1939 messages well and my experience with J1939 is pretty limited. I have in the past made a couple of J1939 devices work with a Link ECU but that was more by trial and error rather than knowing what I was doing. Its a pretty fruity standard with lots of odd conventions that are not well documented compared to the generic CAN that I'm more familiar with in motorsport. Their "legacy message" description is a bit more complete but is still missing some important detail. As per Barges comment you cant send a GP PWM over CAN at present but there's a couple of workarounds to achieve it. You could also possibly do something like just send 3 fixed values such as low/med/hi speed. It would be a whole lot easier with just a solidstate relay...

Put it back to modeled mode and just change the injector size to match whatever you have. Altezza's need to be tuned in modeled mode for the dash to work properly. Was that map actually loaded into your ECU? All the analog inputs are in error condition. Please do as CJ says and give us a log of it cranking. How to Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Need a bit more detail. What model AEM device do you have? What ecu do you have? What voltage is present on the blue wire when the ECU reads 0.684? Please attach your map also.

This. I would say the most likely explanation is the values displayed in the stock ecu software are not what the engine is actually seeing.

Sounds ok to me, make sure the DI pull up is turned on.

Back probe each wire on the sensor and measure resistance between each wire and ground (any ground will do). If any have low resistance (say <1ohm) then that would be a good indication that it is grounded on one side.

DI11-16 are differential inputs, they were specifically designed for sharing ABS sensor signals without effecting the ABS system (no pin is tied to ground).

Use a virtual aux.