Adamw

What sensor is fitted on the cam? Does the trigger scope show nothing at all on trigger 2?

what particular ECU do you have? "Blue plug G4+" - is that a plug-in?

This thread may have some info if you havent seen it:

You have 3 different templates (.lcc) to choose from in the G4. "DisplayLink", "Generic Dash" and "Race technology" From my quick look the Displaylink and Generic dash options look like they might be the same. Display link: Generic Dash: Race Technology:

I will pass this on to be looked at. Did you notice if park/neutral step in idle settings also doesnt work without a DI input?

What was the issue - pin 17 or the injector test? Is the car an R34?

Have answered your email in tech support. It will depend if you have the latest software from DD with the Link support or some older version.

Can you check if there is a wire on pin 17 and if so remove it. Pin 17 is also connected to inj1 but it should only have a wire present on a R34. This is the injector test that Ducie was talking about, if its set to off then that is not the problem:

The cam is not moving in your log but the Inlet LH error counter is incrementing quickly. Have you done the cam angle test to confirm the trig 2 VVT offset is set correctly? Procedure below. Use a test pulse count of 6.

I will ask the engineers if this can be increased in a future release. Something that you may be able to use as a workaround in the meantime is set the main RPM limit to 3D which gives you another variable to use and you can possibly also switch on the dual RPM limit table and switch between them using a virtual aux or some other logic. If not turbo, you can often use the MAP limit table a bit like a GP limiter as well (set to 3D so you can change axes). For instance when oil press is normal MAP limit is out of reach, when oil press is low, instigate a low MAP limit.

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure, so 5psi at idle is pretty good vacuum. The maximum ignition flag is active because you are commanding 35 deg in the main ignition table but you have the max advance setting set to 25deg. This warning is just so you know you have hit the maximum advance limit. If you were only seeing 10 with the timing light when the ECU was commanding 25deg then you need to set your trigger offset. You can connect an old HT lead between the coil and spark plug so you can connect a timing light while it is running.

No, as I said before the only important thing is that it doesnt go past the cam sensor at exactly the same time as the missing teeth go past the crank sensor. It is only used to tell the ECU which phase or rotation the crank is on.

No, the temp inputs have a built-in pull-up resistor.

Do us a trigger scope, that will give us a pretty good idea if the cam sensor is ok: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Yeah, it looks like you would get away with the Atom and it will be a fairly simple change over - you will need to shuffle a couple of wires around. For instance in the Xtreme you are using aux 1,2,3,4,5,&8, The Atom only has Aux 1-4. It looks like aux 1 is not doing much and you can probably forget about Aux 8. For analog inputs your Xtreme file is using Volt 1, 3 & 4. The Atom only has 1,2&3, so you will have to move the Lambda wire to Volt 2.

Orientation doesnt matter too much with a missing tooth crank wheel as long as it doesnt occur very close to the missing teeth on the crank. What ECU do you have? Does it have the built-in triggerscope?

The defaults of start = 10 and length = 50 will work well with almost all common road car engines. There is no real simple end-user procedure to check this apart from making the engine knock and check the knock system detects it.

Cyclic idle and Antilag are two different and mutually exclusive functions. Antilag is only active when you lift off at high RPM. Cyclic idle is only active when the engine is idling. You typically only need cyclic idle if you are using the group N style anti lag where the throttle blade is permanently jacked open. If you have some sort of air bypass valve like the stepper or solenoid valve or throttle kicker then you wont need cyclic idle as you can just close the valve to bring idle down to normal. A typical stepper motor idle valve will unlikely bypass enough air if thats what you had in mind.

No, you adjust the trigger offset number until the timing light shows the same timing as set in the "lock timing to" box.

It appears to be working ok to me. I suspect you just have a historic error code remaining that hasnt been cleared. Go to event log and clear the fault codes, then do a store.

I thought the A31 uses the same ECU as the skyline? Does yours not have the blue 76pin connector that looks like below:

To diagnose I would try removing one aux wire at a time to see which one is causing the issue. It is easy to pull the pins out of the connector. It is only the proper "aux outputs" that can back feed on the Monsoon, so injector and ignition drives dont need to be considered.

Most of the common Delphi and Bosch "coolant temp sensors" are only rated to 130°C by the manufacturer but I have found they are still acceptably accurate enough up to about 140°C (using our built-in calibrations) and will still continue to measure up to a max of about 150°C (less accurate). So, if your oil temp is normally below say 140°C I dont see any need for a specific "oil temp" sensor, a standard coolant temp sensor seems to do it fine.