Adamw

Yes this is fairly simple. I will post an example when I have a bit more time.

Fault 75 means the throttle blade is not sitting at the commanded position for some period of time. This could be caused by almost anything but I would say more likely a settings issue rather than hardware. Next time you have any dramas like that I suggest you set up ECU logging to capture some relevant parameters. In this case AP sub & main, TP sub and main, E-Throttle target, TP/target error accumulator, TP error accumulator and EThrottle motor DC would have probably given us a really good idea of where the problem lay. Can you do us a 1 or 2 minute log of you working the pedal/throttle - do a range of fast, slow, wot, partial throttle presses and holds at various openings. Post it and your map so we can take a look if there are any clues. You dont need to drive or even have engine running. You can change the "when stalled" setting to "run throttle" so that the throttle will work without engine running (you will have to put it into setup mode to change this setting but please but it back into "on" mode for the log).

http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER They are about NZD $115 in NZ. You can order one through any dealer.

Post a log and your map and I will take a look. Can you give more detail about your problem "all i get is white space where my Log Analysis should appear". Do you mean the time plot and other logging views are missing - or are the views still there just no data showing?

This is not a car I know a lot about but from the info I have it seems those that had "VVT" it was just an on/off type system - not proper continuously variable cam position control. So the function you want for inj 6 would be "CAM Switched".

Its a bit quiet in Tech support tonight so here is a starting point. After loading this you will need to calibrate TPS and MAP sensors, check base timing with a timing light. Check all other sensors read correct. You may need to adjust master fuel number up or down a bit to get it to run. I have set up 2 boost tables to be switched by your boost switch but I have left zeros in both tables for now so both should just give you spring press. I notice you have no idle valve in your IO list. RB25DET Neo Fury.pclr

Also I will add: G4 software wont work with a V44. Download VTS 4.10.2 from the Vi-Pec website (this is not your driver issue but once you have a working driver you still wont be able to connect with G4 software). I would also try installing the latest g4+ software as that will install newer USB drivers that may overcome whatever issue is giving you the grief here. If you still cant get it to work then shoot us an email at and one of us should be able to teamviewer in and sort it out.

A brief google suggests there might be a chance of getting it to work. Taken from this page here: https://www.cantanko.com/rx-8/reverse-engineering-the-rx-8s-instrument-cluster-part-one/ the below info suggests just those first two ID's would give you a working dash. 500Kbit/sec rate. I dont have enough experience with OEM CAN conventions (if there are any) to know what the byte order will likely be but trial and error will probably work that out. If you have a car fitted with a G4+ and its already running and connected to the CAN bus then I can give you a couple of examples to try.

Make sure you are on the latest firmware. There was a fuel cut bug in old firmware versions (<5.6.2) where if your injectors were at 100% dutycycle the fuel cut limiter didnt work. (If this is the case that means you also need to look at your fuel system...) If you are on relatively recent firmware then we will need a log to see the cause. Here is how to do that log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

If your timing shows correct with a timing light but it is backfiring then that would indicate you are out by 360deg (firing on exhaust stroke rather than compression). Try adding 360 to your offset. That would be about 343deg.

It depends on engine firing order. There are two examples in the help file that should cover most engines:

Sorry, nothing available now or in the near future. These are definitely high on the todo list but still some time off as we havent even started to look at it yet.

Trigger 2 arming should be done separate to trigger 1. Based on your scopes I would set arming like this: RPM Trig1 Trig2 3000 2.0v 3.5v 4000 2.5v 4.5v 5000 3.0v 5.0v 6000 3.0v 6.0v

If you post a log and map we might be able to improve it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A, but in your earlier logs your lambda is not working so without that we havent got much to work with. Originally you said you just needed to get it running good enough to take it to the tuner, is it still not driveable?

I dont remember anyone ever reporting that our base map AC settings dont work correctly on an MR2. But if all you are trying to do is "invert" the AC clutch output so that it works opposite of what it does now then all you need to do is just change the polarity setting on the aux output from low to high.

Perhaps they look similar but the G3 is very different. The G1 had a 17 pin connector whereas the G3 has 26. The G3 is actually a much better ECU and can even be upgraded with the G4 firmware, but you wont be able to load or copy a G1 map into it or anything like that. It will be no easier to upgrade to the G3 than it would be to upgrade to the newest G4+. Unfortunately, there is no direct, easy upgrade path for the G1. Having said that if the only change has been adding a blower it should only need some tweaks to the main fuel and ignition tables in your original tune, if you find a tuner that still remembers how the G1 works there it shouldnt be a massive job to do that.

Usually the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration is correct for these. I would expect it to read close to the ECT if it had been sitting for more than 24hrs. EGTs are not accurate enough to use as a comparison. For a quick calibration check you could remove the TMAP and dip the end in a cup of ice water and a cup of boiling water.

I think any of your suggestions would work fine and there would be little difference between them. I'd personally probably shy away from the 008 just because you have no control over dwell and they are very hard to get replacements for nowadays. These are both capable of about 7-8A and are well proven/reliable. I havent seen a 200 fired parallel before but with his 4 Channel sister, (the 211) it is quite common to use those in wasted spark set ups firing 2chs together and they dont seem to give any drama. You could calculate out a ms based dwell table if you really wanted too but you dont even need to get that technical, you just set the "dwell mode" to "duty cycle" and for the dwell table you just set a single fixed DC%. For the 008 the recommended duty cycle was always 70% from memory but you might be able to bump that up a little more depending on the RPM you need to run. With a distributor you quickly run out of dwell at high RPM, 70%DC at 7000RPM on a 6 cylinder distributor system will give you a max dwell of 2ms, 80%DC will give you a max of 2.3ms.

Correct, you can use either direct or wasted.

Set up the same as the BA XR6 info in the help file. Crank sensor wired to Trigger 1. Inlet Cam wired to Trigger 2. Ex cam wired to Digital input 1 - 4. Trigger 2 serves two purposes - certain teeth are looked at so the ECU knows what "phase" of the engine cycle it is on (ie exhaust or compression stroke), it is also used to control the VCT position. So the Ignition timing will always be right regardless of the cam position - the majority of engine position info comes from the crank.

If the arming threshold is too high then then the ecu will start to “skip” the teeth that have the lowest amplitude, if the threshold is too low then the ecu may count “noise” as a real tooth. Any time the ecu sees more or less teeth (even just 1) than it is told to expect then there will usually be clear symptoms - dwell scatter is usually the most obvious as the ecu struggles to back calculate where to start the dwell from when time period between teeth is varying so much. Toliski’s logs do not exhibit any of these symptoms.

Ok, I thought you were originally talking about arming threshold which didnt fit your symptoms well. Dwell will certainly have an impact on ignition energy which fits your misfire problem better so that could well explain your fix.

It sounds like you started with a fuel table that was set up for a traditional ms based equation. The software will not automatically calculate or create the fuel table numbers for you, they will just stay at whatever they were in the map that you started from. For a closer starting point you could just copy and paste the fuel table out of one of our modelled maps such as the atom/monsoon samples.

You can turn on the "dual fuel table" (under fuel corrections folder) if you want two fuel maps. However you shouldnt need two separate maps just for a change in boost pressure, you would normally have MAP or MGP already as one axis of the fuel table so the same fuel table should cover any boost pressure - you just need to make sure all cells that the engine can hit during high boost or low boost settings are all tuned.

You will typically see 45-65% "VE" at idle on most common automotive engines. This may not accurately reflect real life VE if for instance you were measuring the real VE with air flow measuring equipment but it is within the limitations of a model/equation based on MAP. Have a look at our Atom or Monsoon base maps for a typical modelled fuel table (these are set up to be on the safe/rich side) so on a properly tuned table you would see maybe 10% smaller numbers than these examples.