Adamw

Your idle control is not working at all in the log due to no speed source selected (this is a bug, it should work with it turned off, but it doesnt). Can you change speed lockout to match the settings below before doing more logs.

No as I said earlier, the speedo is not connected to the ECU at all in our plugin ECU or the factory ECU. Your problem is elsewhere.

It sounds like there is something fried to me but @Simon knows the internal's better than me. He is on holiday for a couple of days but I will ask him to give his opinion on this one when he is back on Wednesday.

For future reference, you turn on the 3D deadtime table, then your axes will be user configurable - you can turn the 2nd axis off if you dont want 3D.

Agree with Ken's thoughts here, a lot of this sounds more like fuel tune related rather than idle control. If you have a lambda sensor connected then you can post a log here for us to have a look over.

It looks like it following the trend ok but perhaps not enough gain or update rate so the reaction is too slow. Will need to see your map too. Having said that - it looks like your fuel tune needs a lot of work before you turn on CLL, your measured lambda is not even close to target in a lot of that log.

ok, so now you need to look at your fuel pump and wiring. Do you hear it prime at key on?

Set your aux 1 fuel pump polarity to low.

No it sounds more like whoever is advising you hasnt got a clue. Even the later "V2-3" ECU doesnt have ign2-4 on the normal 8 pin expansion sockets.

It sounds like it needs to go back to the tuner.

There are many ways you could do this. You could use the DI to switch to a lower boost table and/or turn on a 4D ignition table that removes 10deg timing.

Most likely dwell related I would say. The Evo has a low tooth count trigger so will need significant cranking dwell. Can you post your dwell table and what coils you are using.

We have only just recently added the Rover 1L6 pattern with cam sync, it will be available in the next firmware. That triggermode has been designed to use the falling edge on the cam sensor. All scopes we had from that engine with a cam sensor had reluctor on the flywheel so you will have to do a triggerscope when you have it working and send that to us, we will confirm which edge best matches the expected pattern.

Yes, injector timing isnt relevant - you can squirt fuel in at anytime and it should still run. If you havent done so you need to confirm there is reasonable fuel pressure in the rail too. A 4 stroke engine cycle is 720 degrees. In a road engine, Inj timing is more for drivability and ecomomy etc but around 400deg is common. Most engines will run best when all of the fuel is injected before the intake valve opens, this is about 400°BTDC.

Unfortunately not at present, it would need a fairly significant firmware change to make this happen.

Only our Kurofune ECU has analog outputs designed for piggyback type sensor simulations. If you have one of our other ECU's then you will need to use a GP PWM, and add a basic external circuit with a 5V pullup and a R-C filter to smooth the PWM signal down into an analog looking signal. Remind me in a day or two when Im back at work I will draw a quick diagram with some recommended values & settings.

I think Grant is more asking if a 0-12V signal into a trigger input is ok, the answer is yes. Although as Tim points out not many have an internal pullup anyhow, so most hall sensors that are powered by 12V wont actually put out a 12V signal - it will be whatever the pull-up supply is. Is it a K series? All K series I have seen use a reluctor on the crank, hall on the cam if fitted. Otherwise, if you are sure they are both hall sensors then it most likely is a pinout issue.

Still nothing much looking out of place to me. Have you confirmed there is fuel pressure? You can try fuel master up at 40 or 50 but it shouldnt need to be that high provided everything else is working correctly.

Yes this suggests there is a lack of fuel. Can you do a short log of it cranking. How to vid here: https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

Those cars do normally have both a clutch switch and a hand brake switch, but it sounds like yours might be a fairly stripped out version. The hand brake switch might still be there... The handbrake switch comes in over CAN bus and is written to parameter "CAN DI 2". You can view the CAN tab on the runtimes screen and see if CAN DIG 2 changes status when you pull the handbrake up. It is does then we can use this for a basic launch control

Tacho is on Pin 45 - on our plug-in ECU it is driven directly off the crank sensor (this is a leftover from when our plugin ecu's had less available aux outputs so it was done to spare an output). As far as I know the speedo is not connected to the ECU - although it probably does share the VSS signal somewhere along the line.

Yes, it will run it fine. The Atom is quite restrictive in terms of the amount of inputs and outputs it has so it will only have enough to run the engine and the common basic auxiliaries. For instance, tacho, fuel pump, fan and idle valve will take up most of the auxes . If you are running a distributor then that will give you another 3 auxilaries if you need more. The Atom only has 4 ignition drives and 4 injector drives so injectors (and coils if it is COP) will have to be paired up. I dont know this engine well, so I will mention that the Atom cant control a stepper motor type idle valve - it can only do solenoid types so you may need to confirm what it has.

Assuming this is the EJ20 with variable inlets only (not the EJ25) then they have reluctor sensors so pull-ups off would be correct. If you do the cam angle test (set test pulse count to 4) do you get 4 steady cam angles displayed in the absolute VVT position runtimes? If so, can you note them down for both cams?

Oh dear... Your coils are connected to analog inputs? If you are in NZ then I think we have the ignition expansion loom in stock but if you are overseas then international shipping will rule out that option economically. Thankfully it is quite a common connector that you should be able to find easily locally. The connector you need is a 4 position Mini MATE-N-LOK. You will find them at all common electronic suppliers and ebay etc.

The ECU is not a charger (or a USB host), it is a usb "device" just like a USB mouse or flash drive - do either of those charge your tablet when you plug them in?