Adamw

Hi Peter, All the settings in your map appear to be ok, I dont have too many other ideas. If you want to attach your dash config file I will take a quick look over that too. This dash/vnet module was quite popular so it has been proven to work successfully many times previously. If I dont see anything wrong in your dash config would you be prepared to send your dash and Vnet cable down to us in New Zealand (or even to our UK office for forwarding to me)?

Can you attach your map. Also, I believe the MXL2 has 2 CAN ports, one on the big connector and one on the small connector. You are connected to the big one right?

I agree, even though it is unlikely going to change the tune noticeably if you did re-zero the TPS, you are best just to leave it alone so that it reads 2% or whatever at idle, this will keep the fuel map most relevant.

Pin 4 should have full battery voltage. Make sure the source you are taking this from has decent sized wire and is capable of supplying 8Amps. The heater voltage (your quoted 7.5V figure) is controlled by the ECU via PWM to pin 3. I havent seen that error before so it is going to be a process of elimination. ClintBHP's suggestions are a good start. Also be aware there are many fake sensors on the market now so if yours was from amazon/ebay/aliexpress etc I would be suspicious.

what are the part numbers of your gauges?

I have moved your post to its own topic and into the correct forum. For your idle problem, it sounds like the base position table isnt set up right. Has it been tuned? Can you do a PC Log and post that and a copy of your map here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yes, the sub-board out of a G1 "non-plus" is the same.

can you attach your map, I will take a look. What is the part number of your Vnet module?

I would think that should work ok, I would add two injectors above the blower in a relatively central location and connect them to drives that are firing 360 degrees apart, that will give you the best chance of uniform mixture from cycle to cycle.

Correct, your Exp #1 socket has two spare temp inputs and 2 analog inputs. 1 pin of your oil temp sensor connects to sensor ground, the other pin to either AN Temp 3 or 4.

True, I have only used these SSR's for fuel pump control and you can assign FP speed to an ign aux. For fans, water pump , GP PWM the live supply side of the SSR will have to come from a switched 12V source.

I/O available on the plug in expansion ports varies between models. What ecu do you have?

You will not need screened for most sensors (knock sensor being the exception). I suggest 0.5mm or 20awg as it fits most common automotive terminals well.

Is this a monsoon? If so upgrade to the latest firmware as this bug was fixed sometime ago.

They work fine wired in the normal manner if you connect to an ignition aux rather than a normal aux.

There is injector data already formatted to drop straight into G4+ on ID’s website, look in the plug and play section. Edit; here:http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management

This is not a model I know well but as a general rule in a reasonably modern car like this you will have issues integrating with an auto trans. It will likely need some sort of torque reduction for gear shifts and the ECU possibly also looks after converter lock up etc. You would probably be better looking at reflash solutions like Ktuner etc.

Correct. The Signal wire goes to any analog input. I will post a pic below of how the set up looks in PC Link. For the temp sensors, one pin to ground (green), the other to either of the AN Temp 1/2 pins. Set up looks like below. (both sensors use the Std Bosch NTC calibration)

If nobody else comes up with anything useful after a day or 2 then I think I know this model well enough to knock up a basic starting point. Basically, I would start with our S13 or S14 map, change the ignition set up to suit the distributor and change the fuel map to TP to suit the ITB's. @Ducie54 may also be some help.

Before you go tearing wiring out can you do a PC Log with all parameters recorded. Do about a 10 minute drive would be good. It could be something overloading your 5V rail or even fault settings could cause some of your symptoms.

Can you give us a photo under the CAS cover also. It looks like it should work, but the triggerscope doesnt lie so something is not right...

There are also 8 CAN EGT inputs, have you used up those?

In your attached doc you have your CAN bit rate set to 500kbit, it should be 1Mbit for the AIM "CAN_BUS_BASE_LCC" template. Can you change that to 1Mbit, store, then reboot both devices.

This is not possible at present.

Also a bit of further info, Clint's comment about the resistor is not required on the input side is correct (Our ECU's have a built in pull up on the aux output so it is not needed). The Diode on the output side may be needed depending on what SSR you use. Many of the cheap ones need the diode as they arent designed to drive inductive loads, the flyback voltage will fry them in no time. The diode is there to capture the flyback. Look at the datasheet for the SSR you want to use and if it states it is suitable for inductive or motor loads then no diode is needed. If it states suitable for resistive/lamp/heater loads only then you will need a Diode. Here is the datasheet for the one Haltech sell (diode needed): Here is an example Hella SSR I have used a few times (no diode needed):