Adamw

Have you fitted a Link ECU?

It will be no different to a NA or turbo engine. MGP would be the suggested load axis on the fuel table. Set the fuel equation load source to MAP.

Its not clear from your post, is it wired to the round coms port or B27/28?

Ok, so it is not a gauge issue in that case. Is the voltage on the gauge and ecu changing when you rev it or turn headlights on etc or is it fixed at some static value?

This would suggest the ecu is seeing nothing connected to those temp inputs. Either you are connected to the wrong pins or there is a disconnection somewhere between sensor and ECU. Do you have 5V if you measure the voltage between the two pins in the sensor plug with ign on, sensor unplugged?

Just temporarily turning ORFC off will tell you if it is that or not.

Does the CAN gauge read differently from what is displayed in PC Link?

There are many of the basic fundamentals setup incorrectly in this map, I suggest you start again. The biggest issue is the MAP sensor calibration is wrong, this is the most important sensor as it has a large influence on nearly all control functions in the ecu, this is why MAP sensor calibration is listed as one of the first procedures before the engine is even started. The fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong also. So you are going to have to start from scratch as fuel, ignition and boost control will all be wrong if they have been tuned with these sensors calibrated wrong. Once you have those set correctly and verified, the fuel system type should be set to FP sensor, the charge temp table needs to be populated with realistic values, the IAT trim table should be turned off, and the real injector flow rate (slope) should be entered. I would also simplify the fuel and ignition tables significantly to make your life easier, start with like 6 rows and 8 columns, then only add more resolution if it is found to be needed as you work through the tune. That should give you a better point to start tuning from.

Need more info. What ECU & car? What inputs are the sensors wired to? Attach a copy of your tune also.

Yeah both RPM and sped lockout are higher than typical, although I find these do need to vary quite a bit for driver style. Make sure there is a non-driven wheel speed source set up for the speed lockout. But from your description I would say your jerking issue sounds more like overrun fuel cut incorrectly set up rather than idle ign.

I used the circuit below to make a Nissan speedo work from an ECU aux out. Basically you need a pseudo "AC" waveform that crosses zero. I cant remember if this was a skyline or an S chassis as it was several years ago, so no guarantees it will work for an R33, but at least the bits needed should only cost a couple of dollars to give it a try. Simulated waveform:

Pin 3 is the main 12V supply. Pin 1 & 2 are the main grounds.

It should be no drama. Connect it to the ECU, set CAN port you are using to user defined mode and the bit rate to 1Mb/sec. Go the CAN devices tab and click find devices, it should find the keypad, you can then click "configure device", then "Send default coms setup", this will re-program the keypad with all the default Link settings so it can then just be set up like a link keypad.

DI engines yes, but it is rare to see anything but 1.0 lambda on any modern port injected engine as NOX goes through the roof. With DI they generally use a stratified charge type strategy - basically they have a non-homogenous mixture inside the combustion chamber, so the overall average air to fuel ratio is lean, but the mixture in a localised area around the spark plug is richer to support good combustion initialisation. You can often go a little leaner than 1.0 with port injection, however for that to translate into better fuel economy you need to reduce any possibility of lean misfire to the bare minimum. The ignition system needs to be powerful enough to support a large spark gap (higher voltage), injector atomisation, spray pattern and alignment etc needs to be near ideal, cylinder to cylinder air and fuel flow balance needs to be very close, and the ignition curve needs to be well optimised.

Moved to the G4+ forum. The laptop is seeing the ecu ok but there is no communication, that would usually mean the ecu is not powered up. Start by confirming there is 12V and ground on the correct pins.

Aux 5 & 6 have dedicated high side drive hardware fitted on the adapter board for driving the factory vtec sol directly, Aux 5 does the intake runner on some integras. They can only do high side and there is no need for a relay. Active state should be set to low.

Yes the ecu can work with the most common J1939 messages and PGN's etc, however I have found often many so-called universal J1939 devices very much lacking enough documentation to give you all the info you need to connect to it easily. While the content and scaling etc of the J1939 message are generally well defined, the actual CAN ID's that a J1939 device broadcasts on differ based on its "source ID" and message priority etc. If these details or the actual ID's are not stated in the documentation you have to make assumptions and use lots of trial and error until you find i. If you have a sniffing tool you can see the transmitted messages easy enough, but working out the receive ID's can be more difficult.

Yes, the reason 500K is needed is this ECU has a module connected to CAN2 internally to control the original K-line dashboard, this K-Line module is fixed at 500K.

It will work in parallel, yes. You will want someone who is fairly experienced to install it and set it up however as there are always challenges to overcome with piggyback installs. I dont think it will be anything too complicated due to the age of your car but sometimes the OEM ecu can be quite fussy with what is removed etc. For example you sometimes need to connect "fake" injectors or generate a fake MAF signal to keep the OEM ecu happy and functioning. How the torque reduction request comes from the trans will need to be investigated also.

The Storm would be the minimal ecu that could do a 3 rotor with staged injection. You probably dont need any more than that if it is to remain a basic road car. The Storm has most common motorsport features, enough IO to run the engine and all its accessories including the OMP (if they have an electronic one?). I would probably only go to the Xtreme or Fury if I had aspirations to upgrade to DBW in the future for cruise control et.

Yes, the ecu will switch off the relay if there is a potential safety issue with the throttle control. As I said a few posts further up, the few wiring diagrams for car models that are listed against that sensor part number suggest it isn't a typical pedal sensor suitable for DBW. It is from a diesel engine, it appears to only have one position sensor and two switches. A multimeter will be able to confirm that pretty quickly. If you measure resistance between the gr/ge/gn wires while moving the sensor, if it has a potentiometer inside then you should see a nice linear change in resistance between two of those pins over the full range of movement. If it is a switch the multimeter will either show 0 or OL for most of the range then suddenly snap to the opposite at one end of the travel.

Is it a Yamaha or Seadoo ecu? Is the dash connected to the CAN in the expansion pigtail or the CAN H/L on the main connectors? Do the CAN errors prevent the dash from working? Do the CAN errors still appear if you only switch on the ignition but do not start the engine?