Adamw

Most of the Porsche cyl head temp sensors use the Std Bosch NTC calibration.  I have come across one earlier car (mid '80s) that appeared to use the 0280130017 calibration.  Set it to Std Bosch NTC to start with, if it isn't correct it will be quite obvious if it doesnt report a realistic room temp with a cold engine.  
As for typical temps, I found them to be quite sensitive to ambient temp.  We have quite mild temperatures in the city I live, say 0°C on the coldest winter day Vs 30°C on the hottest summer day.  The most recent one I tuned in summer acted pretty similar to a water cooled engine on the dyno - it sat around 100°C most of the time, it would creep up to 120ish when idling after a full power run, but I didnt have any trouble keeping temp under control even without a lot of airflow through the engine bay when tuning.  Temp would come back down quickly at RPM a bit higher than idle.  But the owner rang me a few months later because in winter when cruising on the motorway he found the head temp would drop so low that the warmup enrichment would kick back in.  From memory we had to drop the warmup enrichment out at about 60°C which was a bit of a compromise.  

There are various form factors, basically it is a capacitor placed between the coil power supply and ground, it effectively shorts high-frequencies to ground, this reduces noise but in some setups it is also used to reduce the length of the return path that the high voltage has to travel through to get back to the coil from the spark plug.  It is especially important for coils which dont have a separate secondary ground pin - so instead the secondary return is connected to the primary 12V pin.  Many OEM set-ups have them, especially older ignition systems with separate ignitors. 
Have a watch of this video from about the half way point for a better explanation with pictures etc:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1HfbXyYzSM
 
Some examples:
  
Toyota has a nice one built into a connector body:

 

Assuming your car originally had the coilpack like the pic below then the conversion harness should just work with no changes to the configuration.  If this is what you had then start by removing a coil/plug and using the ign test to confirm if there is a spark or not. 
 
 

 
 
 
If your original coil looked more like the one below then there would need to be an ignitor bypass fitted.  

 

You are not "jumping to 8000", this is the RPM that the engine will be held at on the start line and for maybe the first 2 wheel rotations, then you quickly reduce that down to the slip value that gives you the best acceleration.  Once you have the slip under control and the vehicle accelerating, then you ramp the RPM back up to your normal RPM limit.  

This is just a random made up example, but it is a quite normal trend for road racing, I have no idea how things work in snow.  But the general idea in cars is there is an ideal amount of slip that will give best acceleration (not zero slip).  It is much easier to start off with too much slip, then quickly pull the RPM down to achieve the ideal slip, than it is to start off with too little slip, and then somehow try to invoke an increase in slip. 

Are you sure it is a DTM and not a DT? 
Having said that, if we are talking 4 x direct spark, denso COP at a redline of say 8000RPM, lets say a 2ms dwell (20% duty) where dwell ramps up linearly over that 2ms to say a peak of 8A, your average current draw on that single wire supply will be 3.2A total for the 4 coils.  
Your proposed wire sizes will be fine.  

You have no accel enrichment as the cold correction table is zero'd out, the smallest value would typically be 1.0 in there at normal operating temp and 2.0-7.0 at the cold end depending on injectors etc.  
For the boost cut you likely have a short spike that gets too close to the limit, you will see it better if you ecu log at say 200Hz, but since you are hitting the cut you will either have to lower boost, raise the limit, or reduce the control range.    

Example Below.  
Example below. 
Launch button is DI3.  DI3 is used to activate/reset a timer.  Set up a virtual aux with a condition timer < 8.00s, we will use this virtual aux to activate launch control (the timer will only be <8s when your finger is on the button and for 8s after you let go).  Set launch control to 3D mode, with virtual aux 1 as the activation control.  Put timer 1 on one axis of the 3D launch table, this will vary your launch RPM limit based on time after launch.  

If you can find the motec document which shows which pins are "non oem functions", then Im happy to check if those same pins are available on our ECU and which IO would be best to connect to them.

From memory the gain and update rate table examples given by me above are from my Evo road car (pretty much dead stock evo 7) the lambda probe is very close to the turbine outlet probably at the most 500mm from the exhaust port, in this car I have the reactivation delay set to 3 samples.  In our WRX11 test car which also has the probe right after the turbine - but has much longer manifold primaries etc (probably more like 1500mm from port to probe) I have reactivation delay set to 5 samples.  The update rate table is similar in both cars, the subaru could actually do with less than 1Hz at idle as it takes about 3 secs to respond to a change of PW but 1Hz is currently the lowest it can do. 
So what this means is in my evo with the reactivation delay set to 3 samples, if CLL was temporarily disabled due to over-run fuel cut or similar around idle where my update rate is 1Hz (1 sample per second), then CLL would be re-enabled 3 secs later.  To give an example at the other end of the table, if I hit the RPM limit at 7000RPM where my update rate was 10Hz, then CLL would be disabled for only 0.3s.    

No, I think his problem was he had no aux outputs left so he had the tacho adapter connected to a coil drive, so you only get a very short pulse the length of your dwell setting.  If it is connected to an aux output that is set to the tacho function you have full control over the duty cycle and scaling.   I have never had any drama achieving a fully working tacho with one of these coil simulator type devices.
For me a $25 (or even the $100 8920) adapter is a no brainer, the hours it takes to pull the dash apart, modify it, reassemble, risk of breaking brittle plastic trim clips etc is a last resort. 
 

The high threshold is about 1.6V, low threshold is about 1.0V.  The DI pull-up if enabled is 4K7 to regulated 12V, there is a low drop schottky in series with the pull-up so consider it more like 11.7V pull-up.  I would expect it should work fine with almost any automotive hall sensor out there provided the sensor and ECU ground are at similar potential. 

Use a virtual aux to enable launch only  in conditions it is likely to be used, for example speed <10kmh and TP > 40% or similar 

0.75 or 1.0mm would be ok for the main power supplies and grounds/070 terminals, for all the signal wires you would probably be better with 0.5mm.  The gkw wire is also very large insulation diameter so check it is going to fit into the connectors before you commit, most automotive connectors are designed for very thin wall insulation.  You will want shielded wire for the triggers and knock sensor also. 

What do you mean by "starts and cuts"?  Are you talking about the AEM wideband still or some other issue?  Has it been tuned and running correctly before?

Ok the TP sub voltage starts reading much lower than it should in the areas where it fails.  It could be a loose connection or failing TP sensor, but since you have =3 logs here showing it failing at idle position I think that points more towards the sensor - they usually wear out around the idle area first.  

Provided the fan relay kit has been designed to be "ground triggered" it will be fine, connect to one of the spare ign drives on the expansion loom.  

You will need to log gear pos voltage at 500Hz minimum to see enough detail.  It is not going to work correctly with a gear position voltage that rolls past 0V and back to 5V during a normal shift.  It is ok for that to happen during an R or N shift but not for a normal shift.  Your voltage doesnt reflect barrel rotation so the "next gear voltage margin wont be applied incorrectly.  If we plotted gear pos voltage (Y axis) Vs gear barrel rotation yours would look something like below.  
So the correct shift end would be 0.15V before 5th which is 4.65V where I have put the green dot.  But because the ecu only knows 4th is 0.34V and 5th is 4.5V, it will use 4.5-0.15 = 4.35V as the shift end (where I have the red dot), which is only about halfway through the shift.  Notice also 4.65V would occur just above the red dot as well so even if you fudged the voltages somehow the shift end would still occur in the wrong place.  

Correct, the update rate should be more closely related to mass flow rather than RPM, in the next firmware update you have the ability to enable user configurable 3D table for update rate and gain.  
However, my policy with tuning is usually to only add complication where necessary, in my car even though I have the ability for a 3D table and I have tried it, I find just the 2D table referencing RPM is all I need.  I suspect just a 2D table with something like "Air per Cyl estimated" on the axis would be a good easy option but I havent personally tried any alternatives like that yet.
Edited the first line of this post as the 3D table comment should have only applied to the update rate, I was mistaken about the gain table.

From memory the gain and update rate table examples given by me above are from my Evo road car (pretty much dead stock evo 7) the lambda probe is very close to the turbine outlet probably at the most 500mm from the exhaust port, in this car I have the reactivation delay set to 3 samples.  In our WRX11 test car which also has the probe right after the turbine - but has much longer manifold primaries etc (probably more like 1500mm from port to probe) I have reactivation delay set to 5 samples.  The update rate table is similar in both cars, the subaru could actually do with less than 1Hz at idle as it takes about 3 secs to respond to a change of PW but 1Hz is currently the lowest it can do. 
So what this means is in my evo with the reactivation delay set to 3 samples, if CLL was temporarily disabled due to over-run fuel cut or similar around idle where my update rate is 1Hz (1 sample per second), then CLL would be re-enabled 3 secs later.  To give an example at the other end of the table, if I hit the RPM limit at 7000RPM where my update rate was 10Hz, then CLL would be disabled for only 0.3s.    

You guys are pussies. Lol.  
Here's mine.

 
keep in mind the sensor location and exhaust volume will have a large impact on the amount of gain you can get away with and the update rate.  My sensor is right in the turbine exit so responds to changes in fueling quite quickly.
The current software may not allow numbers as big as mine, I am running a beta version which has some updates to CLL but it should be available soon.
 
I just have my trim limit table set to zero trim in the high-vacuum region.

From memory the gain and update rate table examples given by me above are from my Evo road car (pretty much dead stock evo 7) the lambda probe is very close to the turbine outlet probably at the most 500mm from the exhaust port, in this car I have the reactivation delay set to 3 samples.  In our WRX11 test car which also has the probe right after the turbine - but has much longer manifold primaries etc (probably more like 1500mm from port to probe) I have reactivation delay set to 5 samples.  The update rate table is similar in both cars, the subaru could actually do with less than 1Hz at idle as it takes about 3 secs to respond to a change of PW but 1Hz is currently the lowest it can do. 
So what this means is in my evo with the reactivation delay set to 3 samples, if CLL was temporarily disabled due to over-run fuel cut or similar around idle where my update rate is 1Hz (1 sample per second), then CLL would be re-enabled 3 secs later.  To give an example at the other end of the table, if I hit the RPM limit at 7000RPM where my update rate was 10Hz, then CLL would be disabled for only 0.3s.    

For the blip in a road car application you are best to use a 2nd throttle target table so you can command a different amout of blip based on RPM or speed or both - so you get a less agressive blip (or non blip) when driving slow.  The gear shift function only gives you the ability to vary blip with gear pos.  Activate the 2nd E-throttle table using a GP output based on clutch and brake status or whatever else you want to lockout.  
Something like below.

For a true "rev match" you would have to use the motorsport gear shift function which is over the top for what you want I think.  
To use the gear shift function to achieve a rev match it would be done something like this:
In road car with an H pattern shift and no strain gauge or similar on the lever then really the only thing you have to indicate to the ecu that you want to initiate a gear shift is a switch on the clutch pedal.  But that alone doesnt tell the ecu whether you want to do an upshift or downshift.  So you use a GP output to asses a whole lot of conditions that you think would be present for a down shift but not an upshift.  This, for example, could be something like Throttle pedal is not pressed, clutch and brake pedal are both pressed and the speed is above 30kmh.  Whenever the ecu see's all of those conditions true then it will initiate a downshift sequence.   
Next, for the ecu to be able to rev match, it needs to know what gear you are in and the ratio of the current gear and the ratio of the next gear that you want to engage.  Since you dont have a gear position sensor, you will need a working speed sensor so the ecu can then determine which gear you are in by using speed, RPM and gear ratios. 
With all of that the ecu would then have enough info to generate an RPM target that it needs to hit with the blip based to achieve matched input and output shaft speeds during the shift.  This RPM target can be met in 3 different ways.  1). You can use a speed match limiter - this is where the ecu blips the throttle a little more than is required and introduces a rev limiter to control the RPM at the desired target.  This is the most accurate and fastest blip. But you dont really want to be bouncing on a limiter on every shift when driving around town etc. 2). You can use what we call an RPM target blip. This is where the ecu performs a blip then removes the blip once the target RPM is reached. Since the throttle doesnt close until you are already at target you will get quite a bit of overshoot with this method.  3). A predictive blip, this is where the ecu looks at the rate the engine is accelerating during the blip to predict how long it will take to reach the correct RPM, it can then close the throttle early so you dont get as much overshoot as method 2.  
Having said all that, it is rare to do a proper RPM match for a road car with a synchro gearbox, the normal technique is just to switch to a 2nd e-throttle target table when your downshift conditions are met.  That table can have RPM Vs gear or Speed Vs gear on it so you can command more blip for high speed gear changes and less or none for low RPM/speed shifts.  
 

A couple more relevant considerations:
The Hella one doesnt like PWM'ing more than about 10A. The Crydom and other similar industrial ones need to be well overrated to give acceptable life, the 100A ones are usually ok, the 40A ones fail quick with just a basic pump.  They generally dont work much above 200Hz either so im surprised 450Hz is working for you. Fan controllers generally work ok but be aware there logic is generally designed to failsafe in the "100%" condition.  Whereas fuel pump controller's failsafe is 0%.  Be careful with slowing common aftermarket EFI pumps down too much that arent designed for variable speed control, many give extreme fuel pressure pulsations when the motor torque is reduced, I dont really know why but I assume the rotor speed must become unstable.  Most get pretty funky below around 45% DC.