Vaughan

On second look yes it looks like you've hit knock at 5000rpm and ~10psi of positive pressure in the manifold. Unrelated but when you do go back to the tuner I would recommend looking into using one of the normalised knock modes which looks for sudden changes in noise rather than looking at absolute levels, means it works consistently over a wider range of operating conditions.

We don't currently have knock audio streamed from the ECU to PCLink but it is on the todo list at some point. A fairly common method is to bolt another knock sensor to the engine and connect an amplifier and headphones too it. An example is the Link Knock Block https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock

Thanks Vaughan.
Edit- Had to do a double take. Hadn't realised there were more settings accessible under 'Parameters'!

I have added some clarification to the help manual.

I have added some clarification to the help manual.

quick  note on this, looks like you have a G4X not a G4+ so your CAN scaling will be different
Change your Lambda 1 divider from 1 to 1000

I'm not super familiar with the wiring on the car but our pinout states that one pin is Fan High and the other is Fan Low which would suggest that from factory there is some form of 2 speed fan setup and the Link ECU either uses full speed or off.
 
you could use one of Aux 11-16 for the not connected Internal E-Throttle relay which would leave you a spare output
 
One other comment would be that if you are sending it back for Aux 9&10 flying leads to be added and if you do need more inputs/outputs you could probably have some other non exposed pins added as flying leads at the same time.

Thanks once again. Just awaiting a MAP sensor, need to upgrade to a 3 bar one as stock wouldn't go high enough I was told, expecting to be around 21psi.
Then finally connect the wires to the ecu plug and try to start. I expect I'll need instructions on how to upload a base map. See if what I've done works lol.

Pin 7 and Pin 24 are both signal grounds, the Link looms use pin 7 as the signal ground for Trigger 1 & 2 but either 7 or 24 will work just fine.
For shielded cables connect the shield to a signal ground at the ECU (pin 7 or 24) but don't connect the shield to the ground wire at the sensor end (connect the shield at one end only and preferably the ECU end).

No problem, I eventually want to add ethrottle waaay down the track so I'll have to ditch the Atom anyway at that point.

I was under the impression that G1 was 2 teeth and G2 was a single tooth but I could be wrong
On a 3s that is, well aware 4agze is 1 tooth but 180deg out on the sensor (360 out on the crank)

yes nc is no connect.
diagram looks like it is looking into the distributer plug. I have attached some more pictures and the picture of the plug appears to be looking into it from the distributer side not the loom side. G- (pin 4) is signal ground, NE (Pin 1) is Trig 1, G2 (Pin 3) is Trigger 2.
I used the attached pdf when making a custom loom for my 3s,  TPS pins are numbered the same as the distributer. Pin 1 is signal ground, pin 2 is unused (idle switch), pin 3 is An Volt signal, pin 4 is 5V. (pdf page 57, 56 printed on page, for the sensor wiring and pdf page 64, 63 printed on page, for the pin numbering on the plug, T2)
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Workshop_Manual_Toyota/MR2_ELECTRICALWIRINGDIAGRAMS.PDF

1uz is functionally identical to the 3s from memory.

No, it's the same single tooth with two different magnetic pickups 180 apart in the distributor housing.


The tall magnetic pickup is the crank position, and the lower ones have a single tooth under the 24 tooth wheel that passes by them.
As far as I'm aware, Toyota used this same basic trigger setup for most vehicles with distributors from mid 80s to the late 90s.  Even the non-vvt 2JZ with COP is still a 12 tooth crank (which would be 24 tooth on a cam), with two single sync reluctors 180 deg appart off the intake cam if my memory serves me.
4AGZE trigger setup is the exact same as distributor 3SGTE -- the same offsets work great also BTW.  

Thanks Guys, I tested the 3d idle out just now and certainly an improvement, not perfect as it oscillates once or twice before settling so will keep at it with your suggestions too Adam!

Thankyou

Cheers mate, that makes sense now.

Will give the idle base position table a play.

Thanks for your help!

shouldn't be an issue to wire in a a different idle solenoid, note though that most solenoids are 2 wire and so will only need one of the aux output pins that your current one uses.

An Alternator Control function has been made and should be available in the next major release version.

An Alternator Control function has been made and should be available in the next major release version.

Technically possible and kind of already done with CAN Lambda detection and setup, has been mentioned before and is in the list of things to look at doing at some point in the future but no real time frame on it.

Thanks for the advice  Adam. I will check the LSU connectors and swap in a new Bosch o2 to test again. 
 
As always, thanks for the excellant support guys. 

My bad I didn’t checked closely the contents of your table! 
Thank you it’s spot on, you’re right  

can you not just use a gp pwm with frequency varying with rpm and duty cycle varying with injector pulsewidth? Or does it have to be in sync with engine position?
9000rpm is 150Hz which is 75Hz for inj 1
 

Oh yeah, half asleep last night I was multiplying by 60 to get RPS rather than dividing...

Neato, thanks for clarifying. I'll leave it as is for now.

The high side drivers can't do pwm, can you rewire it so that you are controlling the low side and have an ignition switched power supply to the high side?