Vaughan

G4X Atom, Monsoon and Storm only have one CAN Bus, G4X Xtreme and Fury have 2 CAN buses, all G4X plugins have the hardware for 2 CAN buses but when the vehicle the plugin is intended for has a CAN Bus connected to the ECU one of those 2 CAN buses is used to interface with the vehicle's factory system leaving one spare CAN bus for aftermarket devices.
The WRX V10 plugin does not have a CAN bus set aside for OE functionality and so you should have 2 available CAN buses.

you need a very small flat head screwdriver or something else narrow and pointy, each row in that plug has a catch that keeps all the pins in and you undo this catch by prying out the bits on both ends so that it can bend away from the plug, each pin then has an individual tab that can be flicked out of the way allowing the wire and crimp to be pulled out the back of the plug, nothing should need to be forced particularly hard.
Alternatively just unplug the whole plug and slip a bit of wire into either the ecu side of it or the back of it and touch the other end of that wire to ground.
Any exposed metal surface that is attached to the chassis, I often use the metal pin on the door strap
Does your tacho work? I think I vaguely remember having the Tacho output set wrong in an earlyish copy of the sample map. a quick test of Aux 2 to Test On (PWM) with a frequency of 33Hz should show about 1000rpm (if my quick maths is correct).
Ign 6 being set to tacho would explain the egr solenoid pulsing at power on if it is doing a tacho sweep. The reason I asked about testing Ign 6 was just to see if the fuel pump wire was run to it instead of to one of the pins listed as fuel pump in our documentation.

I think when I had the car running yesterday, I remember noting that the tacho wasn't working. 
Your quick maths was dead on haha. Does this mean I should switch the tacho from Ign 6 to Aux 2.
I'll ground the red and white wire now to test.
Oh quick question, I'm going to slip a wire into the plug and then ground it, so do I slip it into the back of the connector when it's still in the ecu. Or take the plug out, leave it out and ground the wire without the plug connected to the ecu. I'm assuming I'll have to turn the key to on either way to test.

If you remove that red with white stripe wire and ground it while the ignition switch is on does the fuel pump run?
If it doesn't can you try turning on the ign6 test to see if the fuel pump runs please

Sweet, that lines up with my documentation, including the wire colour, do you have ignition 5 setup as Fuel Pump, does the pump prime at key on, does the pump turn on when ignition 5 test is turned on?

Your MAP sensor calibration or wiring is wrong, it's showing a MAP value of 56.1 and a BAP value of 103.6 with 0RPM, these values should be the same when the engine isn't running. Given it has a voltage of 0.52V I would lean towards that being a wiring thing.
I suspect those injectors are bigger than 700cc/min actual flow rate as the VE table values (Fuel table) seem weirdly low.
Actually I take that back sorry, it looks fine in the log but not in the saved runtimes in the tune
I assume you're still running the factory Coils? The log looks like it is happy, have you confirmed the fuel pump is running and that it has fuel pressure? do you get any noises like it is trying to run from the engine? have you done an injector test to make sure they are all working properly?

The NA6 has the fuel pump relay through the MAF, the NBs do not, is it an NB1 chassis and wiring loom or is it an engine swapped NA6?
 

Given that the previous owner repinned his harness to suit a G4+ I'm going to go ahead and assume that it was wired to suit a G4+ NA pnp. Do you now have a G4X NB1 pnp that you have changed the harness back to factory to suit?
I suspect the problem is to do with the re-pinning/setup in the ECU. My notes have the Fuel Pump wire listed as being Light/Green in the US and JDM models and being connected to the 3N pin on the ECU header, do you have a light green wire going into the ECU and if so which pin hole does it go into? if you remove this light green wire and ground it while the ignition switch is on the fuel pump should run.

Sorry I should clarify. He repinned his harness for the g4+ but I still have the stock harness and hence the nb1 g4x.
I'll check for that wire now.
 

Got it. That was the problem. Thank you for your assistance 

Yep factory coils. MAP should be fine because it's the onboard 7 bar sensor. 
I can't hear the pump running, but there is definitely a smell of fuel.
I've just jumped the fuel pump relay through the diagnostics box and can hear it running, so I'm assuming that the fuel pump isn't running. In the g4+ user manual the attached image is shown. Is it possible that because I'm running no MAF the fuel pump is refusing to activate?
 
Ok so I started the car with the fuel pump relay jumped and it idled. I started the log after it started running cause I honestly thought it wouldn't work. It idled well but stalled when I gave it a blip of throttle.

PC Datalog - 2023-07-5 12;30;49 pm.llgx

I generally like to have CLL off when I am tuning.
Correct, quick trim only looks at the supplied Target and actual and doesn't take into account any trims.
Are you using two distinct Fuels and so only ever in one table or the other or are you doing any blend of two fuels and so interpolating between the two tables? 
It fills out the LTT tables the same as it would with a single table, it does not look at anything other than the various CLL lockouts.
There is a new user lockout coming in a future release which would allow you to disable CLL and LTT based on whatever you want.
There has also been some work done on allowing the user to specify percentage trims to take into account when generating the mixture map but this hasn't been completed at this point.

Well that is awesome news. The traction control units on the market now seem to have nowhere near the control or functionality of the RLTC and I was worried about having to change, Thanks for your help

"pulse width modulated injector signals which control limit the injector current" are also known as "Peak and Hold" where current into the injector is limited to a large initial 'Peak' current and then held at a lower continuous 'Hold' current. If you are not using Peak and hold injection on your current G4+ Setup then you will not be using Peak and Hold on your new G4X setup. 
Given that your account says you have a 300ZX plugin your existing ECU won't have Peak and Hold Injection and your injectors won't require the use of Peak and Hold drivers so the injection driver type will not be an issue for you.

To make the CE light on the dash do more than just the standard CE light functionality you will want to set the CE Light output to another Virtual Aux and set up a gp output to control the actual Aux Output that is connected to the light in the dash and then use that gp output to either output the state of the CE Light virtual Aux or your preferred output to indicate immobiliser state.
 

It’s a Ford Cosworth 2ltr engine. I will try and get a trigger scope in the next few days and attach.
thanks

Thank you for the elaboration. 
I’ll definitely do some more research and see what I can come up with. Both local Link tuners have recommended using the plug-in, but I absolutely want to take more perspectives and knowledge into consideration. All the others I’ve managed to speak with are Haltech only. I’ll probably make a detailed list of everything that I’m attempting to do, and see how it compares to the various options. Thank you.

Cheers man

I was actually considering using the nfc approach as well. Your suggestion for using a virtual output was very helpful. I haven’t utilized those yet but I’ll figure it out. Thank you for the help

It is a 2006 Usdm Subaru Sti using the 104x plug in.
 

This is Scooter, my 1999 NB Miata. Acquired in August 2017 as an OEM+ car that became an ITB learning project. Quad throttled since 2021 and used an MS3Pro for a while before making the leap to a Link G4X. I'm very grateful to KORacing for getting me up and running and answering all my questions. This is the best the car has felt in years.
The G4X ECU is setup to run modelled mode with MAP as the Load source and TPS on the Fuel, Ignition and Target tables. The MAP is jumpy but the car runs great. There are fuel pressure, oil pressure and oil temperature inputs with safeties looking after the engine. I've also played with Math channels, virtual outputs and CAN Auxes to setup custom functions such as virtual fuel tank resets, flood clear, knock CEL and an extra idle up when the second fan turns on. Some virtual outputs also feed the GP RPM Limits for AFR and Fuel Pressure safety. I've also played with Launch control and gear shift control. Both worked really well but mechanical sympathy doesn't let me use them often.
The engine runs sequential ignition with Toyota COPs and sequential injection with DW 550cc injectors. KORacing setup the injector deadtimes for me because the data I got from DW was far from correct. I intend to setup a Flex Fuel sensor and run modelled multi-fuel for the new-to-me VVT engine build.
The goal of Scooter is to be a fun fizzy street car with track capability. It competes in ABQ Super Lap once a month, and we will soon make the trek to Colorado for trackday at Grand Junction Motor Speedway during the Flyin' Miata Summer Camp. I'm excited to be part of the Link community and continue learning with this car and ECU.
Stockish power, 2250Lbs, 7500RPMs. Snorts for days.



 


Current specs:
Electronics:
- Link G4X Plug-in ECU
    - Hybrid Alpha-N. Self-tuned
- CANChecked MFA 2.0 center gauge
- 14point7 Spartan 3 CAN wideband controller
Engine:
- Stock BP-4W
- 36-2 trigger wheel
- Fluidampr balancer
- DW550cc injectors to accomodate future flex fuel
Intake:
- 45mm Borla Induction Throttle Bodies
- Custom 60mm carbon fiber polycarbonate velocity stacks
- NB Miata idle valve
Exhaust:
- NB2 tubular headers
- Cobalt midpipe with catalyst
- Stock muffler with a cartoonish tip that the car had when I bought it
Cooling:
- Supermiata radiator
- FM coolant reroute
- 180F thermostat
Suspension:
- Xida Race coilovers 800/500 (14k/9k)
- R-type tie rods
- Sadfab bronze bearings
- Energy Suspension Poly bushings
Chassis:
- Paco motorsports strong arms
- FM butterfly brace V2
- Front strut bar
- Blackbird Fabworx GT3 Rollbar
Brakes:
- FM LBBK
- Centric blank rotors
Interior:
- Schroth 4-point ASM harnesses
- MPI Mazda Cup steering wheel
- NRG Keyway type quick-release
- Carbon fiber Lotus Exige Replica seats

You have no idea what this just put me through. I checked some of my logs to find one with the ratio calc runtime to configure this.
But obviously there is always some minor changes in the ratio due to noise or logging update rate and the perfectionist in me wanted to calculate the ratio perfectly since I know my gear ratios and tyre size etc.

Turns out 14 years ago when I bought my "4.77:1" final gear they accidently sent me a 5.13:1 ratio and I never noticed until now hahaha.
That would explain 4000rpm in 5th at 100km/h. Bloody hell.

this would be nice

Ahh alrighty, well I was able to get it to work logging 1-5 n set it to user defined with the correct numbers and it works! Thanks again for the response n always with the quickness!! 

In terms of tuning stuff I would say set 'Equation Load Source' (Fuel->Fuel Setup->Fuel Main) to Load=OFF and then make sure all tables that typically use MAP (AFR/Lambda target, Fuel table, charge temp approximation, Ignition table etc) are set to use MAF instead of MAP on their axes. You will also want to run through and adjust any MAP specific settings like idle lockouts to values that won't interfere with engine running.
When I had a play with using MAF on a friends 3VZ-E Hilux Surf (Four Runner) I filled out the fuel table based on math around converting mass of air at different engine speeds into mass of fuel air per cylinder and then mass of fuel per cylinder as (using Traditional Fuel Mode) and then used my O2 feedback (only had a narrowband for most of my playing) to create the MAF calibration. It did tend to run pretty average but it also had very little tuning and older MAF sensor like the one that vehicle had are known to be slow and innacurate.