Vaughan

Ok I will move the sensor on Friday and try again
 

thanks
 

Is the new engine completely factory or does it have changes like a different cam or a lightweight flywheel?

Basemap, PC log, and trigger scope attached
BaseMapEz30r.pclx PC Datalog - 2022-05-17 8;50;46 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLogx.llgx

I think what Vaughan was suggesting is something like below.  If Lambda went above 2.00 or below 0.67 there would be no correction allowed.

 

From the log you can see it sitting on it's max DC clamp, this may be one of those reasonably rare cases where the vibrations from the engine can cause the brushes in the throttle motor to bounce off the motor shaft. How is the throttle motor mounted?

yes just run a resistor between the 5V going to the sensor and the temperature sensor signal wire

Understood thanks for the help and diag Vaughan

I have downloaded the beta software and firmware, ecu is now running in normal mode. Jeep Cherokee 2000 has been selected as trigger mode and timing seems correct. With the set base timing to box open and trigger offset at 0 I can get my timing light to go to 0, 8 , 10 on my balancer when commanded to in the lock ignition timing to box so it seems the trigger issue has been resolved hopefully. The pulse from the timing light seems to be much more accurate and regular with these changes, I had almost thought it was dying before but i thing it was the signal its been getting. Will try to start it within a few days and update you. Let me know if you want a scope or a log.  Cheers 
One thing is the Hz bar in the upper corner is only between 28 and 32 it used to be around 60hz not sure if this matters at all.

I added extra bolts to the front wheel, as my rear was picking up from the prop->diff bolts, so it was about 4x more resolution, which made the Slip calculations a bit iffy - in future I'd probably just do wheel bolts on both ends.

E07Z trigger mode.(https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/13923-trigger-setup-honda-3-cylinder-engine/)
Especially, it has most error (over 30%) between 1800~2500 rpm, and +10~20% dwell time at higher rpm.
At idling there is little error.
Attach trigger scope.
                                (Dwell time / Table)
- 2300rpm ; +30% (4.3ms / 3.3ms)Trigger_2300rpm_4.3s-3.3s_TPS6.llgx
- 4000rpm ; +13% (3.5ms / 3.1ms)Trigger_4000rpm_3.5s-3.1s.llgx
- 1100rpm(idle) ; little(3.4ms / 3.4ms)Trigger_idle_3.4s-3.4s.llgx
At least they are fine when I check 2weeks ago, but I'll check them again.

Sorry . My mistake for creating the misunderstanding.
I have reupload again with clearer path of my 85 terminals.
This one is the one mostly everyone is taking about right?
 

If you right click and select 'whats this?' option it will open the help file with all of the explaination of how these work - its very comprehensive.
If you aren't able to update the deadtimes for injectors or tune the fuel table using the AFR tables and logs it might be worth booking into a tuner for the work else you might cause damage.

Loaded image of the current setup.

Only had a quick look:
Make sure your MAP is hooked up to your balance bar so that your differential fuel pressure is correct. Might want to consider changing AFR/Lambda target table, ignition tables, charge temp table and VVT target y axes to TPS. Knock tables are also still in MGP.

Those MRS pumps should work fine with just a "speedo out" aux or GP PWM.  They are hard to find over here now but when they used to be popular this was a pretty common setup.  

code 84 Aux9/10 E-Throttle IC Over Temperature / Under Voltage isn't just over temperature, it can also be triggered by undervoltage. I occasionally see it when I have to crank for too long and pump the throttle which would most likely be an under voltage condition.

Hey Just wanted to post up and share my evo 9 for anyone who is interested. Fully built by me to my custom spec. Engine is a true 2.1l at 2100.5cc. Not rounded up or down. Just installed a Link g4x plug and play ecu so I’m learning how to get everything set up properly so this vehicle runs as good as it should!  If anyone has any questions or interest in the car, parts, setup, or engine please feel free to ask. 

An Alternator Control function has been made and should be available in the next major release version.

Given that it is all on the crank and assuming the missing tooth is placed midway between ignition events I don't see any reason to use trigger 2 when you can use a multitooth/missing pattern.

IMG_0808.MOV

Yeah Xtreme would be the ticket.  They all only have one E-throttle as far as I have seen.  

wheel speed should be coming in over CAN but a quick look at your log show's nothing on CAN Freq 1 input, do the engine fans work properly? as in you can change the temperature values to force them on and off?

To figure out base timing on a new setup I recommend removing all of the coils and spark plugs except cyl 1 and then use a piece of plug wire or a spark tester to plug the coil to an then plug onto the spark plug.  Disable injectors (unplug them) and crank with trigger scope and timing light.  If someone cranks while in trigger setup and timing fixed you should see the timing light flashing at the same value if your triggers are correct.  Also check your trigger scope versus the cranking and you'll notice with all the plugs out except cyl 1 that the spacing on the crank trigger teeth will be close together except when building pressure in cyl 1 which is when you should be about to fire.  You can count teeth between this signal and the cam sync signal to see if the offset seems close or if it's one crank revolution off as you should only see the wider spaced teeth in trig 1 once per 2 crank revolutions.  In your scope it looks like your trig 2 falling edge is about in line with the 25th tooth from the gap on your trig 1.  Your sync tooth is listed as tooth 16 and your offset is -5 so that does seem a bit far off.
Your dwell times are pretty high for those coils as well - you want to be around 1.5-2ms at 12v and higher.  I'm not sure what you set your ethrottle minimum to but you shouldn't need much more than 5% to idle and start typically.  If you set your minimum to zero and manipulate the throttle when trying to start it may allow you to figure out what exact percent throttle you need to obtain desirable starting condition and idle speed.  Of course fueling needs to be in the ballpark for this to work.
Small thing: your engine displacement is listed as 2200cc - but with a .5mm overbore 5s block (87.5mm bore) and 91mm stroke crank - your displacement is 2189cc (rounding).  

Small update, found tooth after gap broken off. Replacing the crank gear right now and hopefully get to see some action