Vaughan

Alright so for now I've just rigged up a switch to the starter, and just gonna use that to prime the engine on cold starts. Comfortably happy with that result, may come back to this attempt to automate it in the future but for now it'll do!

Sorry, to be clearer, my comment that my tuner had given me something to try was around the overrun fuel cutout.

I'll respond when I get a chance to try both these fixes. Cheers

Yes the ECU can use Closed Loop Idle position control and/or Idle Ignition control to adjust for variations of engine load at idle.
As far as I'm aware there is no difference in the bottom board between G4+ and G4X.
The 2 speed fuel pump can be used with the factory setup (Aux 4 and Aux 7) or if you want to use pwm control from the ecu you will need to change to a solid state relay.

Wow, that's some service !  
Thank you 
 
Yes the dadzilla file runs 2 pumps staged, guess i got that a bit wrong when i set it up. 
Also yes the fuel pressure and ethanol sensors both have fuel temp. 
And yes the new ECU came with a 7 bar, so spot on. 
 
 
 
 

Hey! 
would just like to say a huge thanks to link and Adam! 
Systems are all up and running now
and the help Adam have me with the motec keypad put me on the right path and have just got almost all the functionality working on the keypad! 
very very happy with the fantastic support link provides! 

Both:
Recommend turning on Asynchronous injection and wall wetting compensation.
You will need to setup and retune Accel Enrichment.
I have assumed 7 Bar MAP sensor as that is what is fitted to new Plugins
Recalibrate TPS, MAP, Trigger Offset and Ignition Delay.
Retune Idle.
Knock is half setup but can't apply any trims in the provided tune, would recommend looking into the new knock modes.
Dadzilla file:
You have Closed loop Lambda setup in stoich mode using An Volt 1 but An Volt 1 is setup as your MAP sensor. I left the NB source off.
You've got a higher rpm limit at -20 than at -10 degrees C.
You have all the outputs setup for 3 speed fuel pump operation but the fuel pump mode is set to off, have set it to standard fuel pump control instead of 3 speed. Did setup Ign 7 as a gp output labelled staged fuel pump to match.
Fuel Temp sensor had a custom cal that matched std bosch ntc so have just used the built in cal. Note Ethanol sensors measure fuel temperature as well.
Driven wheel speed source in supplied tune is set to LR Wheel but LR wheel isn't setup as an input, have set to GP Speed 1.
750277904_DadzillaHubTune19psioctober2021headissue.pclx 704876407_RedbackS13PreSwapBacktoS1316_3_2020Backup2.pclx

Xtreme, Fury and some Plug-in ECUs can control an E-Throttle without an external module, Other Plug-ins can be modified in house to allow the use of the built in E-Throttle controller. Atom ECUs can't control an E-Throttle even with an external module (software locked due to lack of possible inputs on the ECU). Monsoon and Storm ECUs can both control an E-Throttle with the use of an external module.
Storm, Fury Xtreme and all Plug-in ECUS have the ability to control 2 E-Throttles but in all cases you will need at least one external module (if the ECU doesn't have a built in driver or it isn't available due to not having been modified (Some Plug-ins) then two external modules will be needed).

Thanks @Vaughan I have two as I use the ecu on two cars. Well now I have two ECU's I won't need to but I'd like to get both converted please.
 
Also I did contact technical support(via web form) but heard nothing back, asking the same question as above.
Dadzilla Hub Tune 19psi october 2021 head issue.pclr RedbackS13 Pre Swap Back to S13 16_3_2020 Backup2.pclr

I can't think of any particular reason why we couldn't have a rate of 3, I'll look into it.

looks like your trigger signal isn't reliable, you have two teeth visible on the lhs of that scope

I can’t really see from the clarity of that pic. Is there two falling edges there where you circled?
Nvm…I opened the trigger log and I see it now. 

Attached file is based on your G4+ file, you can use the compare function to check differences between it and your G4X one that you made.
Notes:
Would recommend turning on Asynchronous injection and wall wetting Accel enrichment will need setting up as isn't directly equivalent RPM Limit decay settings aren't directly equivalent vvt will need to be calibrated no voltage protection on aps e-throttle will need to be retuned CE Light is virtual aux 1? Launch control was activated by DI2 but DI2 wasn't setup. Launch control percent trim is no longer an option idle speed lockout is 500rpm, means it would not enter idle speed control, have changed to 1500rpm gear detection is setup but there is no speed input. can transmit stream 1 frame 1 transmits An Temp 3 when it isn't setup as an input can DI 2 is now ac request, no ac output setup though 2112406839_1645391496952_1643874886356_TeigonsCurrentTune.pclx

 

If you want to have a separate RPM Limit from the normal one you can use a GP RPM Limit, set one axis to the input that you are using it switch it on and off and in the cells where you want it to be off set the limit value to be higher than the largest value in the normal rpm limit.

Should do, a quick check of the values while it is running should show if it is correct.

You could set your current red shift light to a CAN aux, make another GP PWM with Aux 9 as the output, set it up to always be active and then in its Duty cycle table have the CAN Aux Duty cycle on one axis and the Virtual Aux on the other.
Alternatively set Aux 9 active state to High (so when the gp pwm is inactive the LEDs will be on) and flip all the values in your duty cycle table (100 becomes 0, 0 becomes 100, 50 stays 50). The conditions would then only be Virtual Aux = Inactive (engine speed is covered by the Duty Cycle table)

Hello.　
I understand. I'm sorry for all the trouble I've caused you.
Thank you for your quick support team!

If you want to have a separate RPM Limit from the normal one you can use a GP RPM Limit, set one axis to the input that you are using it switch it on and off and in the cells where you want it to be off set the limit value to be higher than the largest value in the normal rpm limit.

Technically possible and kind of already done with CAN Lambda detection and setup, has been mentioned before and is in the list of things to look at doing at some point in the future but no real time frame on it.

As I say I can’t get in contact with him at the moment. I have assumed that It is a Simple math error. Thanks for the advice, but just wanted to make sure the math block function within the link software works in the way I’ve depicted, And by adjusting to the new equation would work as intended to originally?

Here's how I have mine set up:

So I have two thresholds for lean cut, one for low boost, and one for higher boost.  Both have timers to give some wiggle room for gearshifts, although I'm trying to minimize that with accel enrich.  These are only triggered over 2500rpm and when in boost.  My RPM Limit Table 2 is a flat 2500rpm, so if this activates, it automatically cuts out until conditions reset or down to 2500rpm.  I also have a fuel differential pressure limiter.

I started playing with the GP rpm limit.  I used Lambda over MAP, Im going to set them at critical levels. .900 lambda vs 34 MAP is a 5000 rpm limit for example..  Im not looking for exact just worst case..  If its too picky Ill turn it off or increase the activation time, there are just too many variables that could make a motor go lean and at 9200rpm 30 lbs things go bad quick.  Id rather shut it down and keep the motor alive. 

On second look yes it looks like you've hit knock at 5000rpm and ~10psi of positive pressure in the manifold. Unrelated but when you do go back to the tuner I would recommend looking into using one of the normalised knock modes which looks for sudden changes in noise rather than looking at absolute levels, means it works consistently over a wider range of operating conditions.

We don't currently have knock audio streamed from the ECU to PCLink but it is on the todo list at some point. A fairly common method is to bolt another knock sensor to the engine and connect an amplifier and headphones too it. An example is the Link Knock Block https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock

Thanks Vaughan.
Edit- Had to do a double take. Hadn't realised there were more settings accessible under 'Parameters'!

I have added some clarification to the help manual.

I have added some clarification to the help manual.