Vaughan

had a quick look and it happened when you moved from the idle control being locked out by your vehicle speed to being in closed loop idle control, the blip is the 2% idle base position being applied then after 2 seconds the closed loop idle kicks in and pulls the idle speed down.
To fix it consider reducing your ISC Base Position values in the 80-100deg c range

Thank you very much Buddy!

typically I would expect the DI in the middle. It might be easier though to just have the DI and a ground and to turn the pullup in the DI on

We want to know what voltage AN Volt 5 is reporting.  It should be 2.5V with the sensor unplugged.  If it is not then you either have wired it wrong or your AEM device is faulty.

Thank you very much 
The Link G4X ecu I put on a 2004 subaru forester 2.0 XT with single AVCS and I convert to DBW ,I will come back with all the  details of the work I am doing to help anyone who needs it

Sorry I read that wrong, I missed the 1.8 part on the bottom board, yes 1.8 on the bottom board is EThrottle

It is

Well, that absolutely did it. It was 360 degrees out. Thank you guys so much. I still have a ton to do, but i can at least move forward!

Thank you Vaughan, much appreciated

Looks like the NC uses the Mazda 3 trigger pattern which is supported by G4+ and G4X

Im wired to Pin 11, Both Pinouts for Ethrottle and NON Ethrottle in my manual show AUX 4, which was the confusion.

I'll take a video when I get a minute
 
Heres a small video showing the problem.  Not sure if it makes any difference but I'm running an old macbook pro with a windows partition
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/spfw1ivlpiznki6/20200525_094419.mp4?dl=0

Great! That’s simple enough.
Thank you!

Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think.
I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer.
Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life!
I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4.
 
This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.

Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).

Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.

Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch
Tacho as gauge.pclx

I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring.
You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might not have wires connected to those pins.
Other than that have a look through the plugin pinout and the loom in your car to make sure you have all the wires you need to do what you want, you may even be able to use another pin like aux7 (purge) for your vvt control instead of adding an expansion loom.
One final note, the factory wiring for the early mx5s has the MAF turning on the Fuel pump so you may want to rewire that.

Thanks Working well

Wow thanks very much. It's simple once you look at it already done but I never would have thought of doing it that way. Cheers!

Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch
Tacho as gauge.pclx

I set the triggers to that of the v7-10 jdm and the trigger arming  threshold to the v7 and it fired right up.
 
thanks again guys
 
 
I scoped the new waveform but I somehow lost them or didn't save them in the correct format, so i'll take new ones and upload those later.

thanks Vaughan,
makes prefect sense, I was of the assumption the V5/V6 used the same gear but having NOW researched they all use the 7 trigger points on the rear like all GC8s. 6 crank 7 cam.
that's what I couldn't wrap my finger around. Review of the waveforms really cemented it and of course your expertise.
 
thanks a million, you've been fantastic
 
cheers

It does not happen under hard load, only under very light load when taking off from a stop or a light. I was able to use the factory cable by routing it differently. I can try an s14 cable as its longer and use the other location on the throttle body and see what happens as well as a new tps. 
I also noticed the throttle cable is different between my friends r34gtt (longer).

If you have more than one output set to tacho you will run into problems, turn off that second tacho output