Electredge

if you set timing with a light it shouldn't matter which trigger you use... but you need to use a timing light to set it up.

It looks like all the basics are present and working in your log.   Have you confirmed base timing looks ok with a timing light?  If not then that would be the first thing to confirm. 
If you have already confirmed base timing and it looks close enough then the next thing I would try is add 360 to your trigger offset (so for example if it is -6 now then try 354).  The offset is 360 different depending on if you are using the front or back cam sensor.  

Here's the video of the FFS testing to go with that log.
 
 

Haha, no actually this is just manually shifting with a clutch. It’s a 1999 Subaru 2.5 RS with a 2007 STi engine swap and a short ratio Subaru 6 Speed gear box. I can shift it decently quick and with the right shift cut settings is very quick and smooth. I’ll upload a video tomorrow if you want to see it. The upper clutch switch is the trigger and it’s open looped timed control for the cut and resume of power. A proper sequential box would be even faster. I’m planning to eventually fit one to my 2011 STi time attack car. It’s on a Motec M1 ECU currently but I’ll likely do some Link ECU testing and development on it once they’ve got support for these models. Link’s shift cut logic seems well written so it should work very well for a sequential box I suspect. 

Your TDC angles are wrong which means your spark is ~20 retarded on every 2nd cyl.   The TDC angles you have set are evenly spaced 72 deg apart which would be an even fire engine - you would need a block with a 72deg vee for this to work.  
The viper block is a 90deg vee, so when coupled with the shared crank pins that are 72deg evenly spaced you end up with odd firing angles 54 & 90deg apart.  
TDC points should be as follows:

Yeah I tend to agree, it looks like a large internal hydraulic leak, even in the "working" log you can see ecu sending 100% to the solenoid for quite some time but cam doesnt reach target until RPM is up to about 3500.   Similarly at the when you lift off at the end of the run the VVT drifted back towards home even with ecu sending 100% to the solenoid.  

Windows 10 uses a stupid font scalar... open up display settings you will see the font scalar most likely reads 200%... lower it closer to 100-150 and it should fix it

The communication errors are not faults, they are just debug information to help us when customers have comms issues.  They are only present in PC Link and wont cause a check engine light or any fault record in the ECU.  
The Lambda error 16 & 33 are usually power supply related.  This can be caused when they are connected to a circuit with lots of inductive noise on it - such as the same circuit as ignition coils or idle valve, or it can also be caused when the circuit is not capable of the required current (they can pull up to 8A under high loads etc).  Assuming the wires are already big enough then you could try adding the 2.2uF capacitor as per the alternative wiring diagram in the quick start guide.

I've had a bit of a play with the alternator control now and what I've found is that using something like "voltage<14.7" can result in the output just turning on and off lots which appears to regulate the voltage just fine because the output is updated fast enough but it seems a bit too easy.
My current setup is an attempt at closed loop control in  a table like the above but I was thinking I might try and make a PID loop using mathblocks to see how well that worked. My maths is currently:
Math Block 1 (Voltage Error) = (14.7 - batt Voltage)*(Engine Speed > 0) The engine speed is for setting the error to 0 when below 400rpm to prevent the integral forever increasing
Math Block 2 (Integral component) = ((Voltage Error>0)-(Voltage Error<0))*Integral Gain + Math Block 2   Think I might start with an integral gain of 0.1, might be able to squeeze a *abs(Math Block 2)>Integral limit in there as well with some clever formatting
Math Block 3 (Output) = Voltage Error*Prop Gain + Math Block 2 (Integral Component) + (Voltage Error-Previous Error)*Deriv Gain + Feed forward value (maybe 25 based on my experience so far)
Math Block 4 (Previous Error) = Math Block 1  This previous error will be used for the derivative term
 
I haven't implemented or tested this yet so it will doubtless have some teething issues but it could be an interesting demonstration of the power of math blocks. Note the order I have assigned those is very deliberate, error calculated first, then integral, then output, then last error is stored.
In terms of physical wiring I have an Aux output connected directly to the grey/red wire going into the alternator, I have left the grey alternator wire completely disconnected and I have connected another Aux output to my Battery light so that it still does something. Active High is important for the control wire as when it is active low it will do full voltage when the output is off which I did manage to get wrong the first time.

Unsure if I have the derivative around the right way but on the whole it seems to sit there and oscillate at 1.5Hz (on top of the 250Hz PWM speed), maybe more fiddling will improve but should do the job for now.

There is a preconfigured CAN mode for it in the software/firmware.  Set up info is in the help file under Device Specific CAN Information.
The preconfigured mode presently only uses the E888 inputs (not outputs) - so, 8 x EGT's, 6 x CAN Analog inputs, 4 x Frequency inputs.  We didnt have CAN PWM outputs in the firmware back when that stream was set up so they were omitted.  A quick look at the documentation it looks like you could make the outputs work with a custom stream no worries. 

You didnt attach anything, but yes, you can either swap between E-throttle target tables using a virtual aux, or another option you can just put gear position on one axis of your E-throttle table like below.

Or just put the resistor at the furtherest end right from the start.  The only thing that is required is a resistor at the far end of the bus, there is no need for it to be close to a device.  

Can you update to the latest firmware and try to reproduce.  Even if you set your target lower for testing it should be a valid test.
I found a similar bug noted in our system where if you passed through a 0 target in your boost target table when there was a negative trim applied it would add trim to the target after that point.  During that gear change you do move through a zero target cell so I think this is related to the same bug that has already been fixed.  

It appears to match our "K20 VTC" trigger mode.  Reading this article it sounds like the "i-vtec" may just be on/off like an old Vtec system, but is really just for an economy mode and there is also a dual length intake runner system:  http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/R18A/

@Knox you don't need to wire the relay like that, however if you don't follow the diagram above then the ecu cannot provide any safety to disable the throttle body should it fail in any way. 
example : if for any reason your driving and the DBW faults and gets stuck in the open position you will have to try and quickly turn the car off... if you wire it correctly as above then the Link will shut down the DBW for you. 
Hope that helps 

The ground wires on the Link looms are 18awg, 120°C rated, so will handle about 15A each.  Obviously my 60A example was stating the worst case example so that you or anyone else that reads this post in future has good information to base their decisions on.  It would be very rare in real life to ever have a scenario where every output is running at 100% DC all at the same time but with power wiring it is important to consider what you have connected, the maximum DC/loads, the wire lengths, the insulation temperature rating and the amount of voltage drop that you consider is acceptable.  I have seen many fails in my time where the installer has assumed because the ECU works fine with a 5A fuse that they only need a ground capable of 5A.  
 
All ground pins are connected internally to the same ground plane so I cant think of any electrical theory reason to do so, I suspect this is more just a statement that was made to encourage installers not to take shortcuts on arguably the most important wires.  

The Error 16 and 33 are usually caused by either the power supply being too light or it can be caused by excessive inductive noise on the power circuit.  There is also a "battery under voltage" error 26 at the beginning of the log which suggests it may be the wires not big enough.  If the wires are big enough and you are getting full battery voltage at the CAN lambda plug then it is likely inductive noise.  If the relay is not connected directly to the battery then you can try the 22uF cap as per the quick start guide. 

Yes, I think this is needed too and I have put it on the wish list.

I've always mounted mine in the engine bay, on the chassis not the engine.

It is fine in engine bay or under car too.  Mine has been in the engine bay up near the radiator/turbo (evo7) for the last few years without drama.

I am more familiar with using End of Injection, when I try to use that on a G4x it tells me if I plan to use a Fuel Cut in Seq. mode I should use Start of Injection. 
Just wanted to understand why that is. 
Thanks

Yes, mixture map can be used from road logs.  Set up a Transient filter Eng speed < 250rpm/sec and another with TP<5/sec will get rid of a lot of the inconsistent data. 
Here's a video I done for someone else earlier with some further info:  https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszz5hTxJ8ec0MitL?e=2JbDVh

does this help?

Ok, I'm getting MAP numbers now but no AFR/Lambda 1. I have the Link CAN-Lambda wideband controller on CAN 1...all green and ok in Runtime Values.