Dean

"Each ADIO has a software configurable 4k7 pull-up to 5V" so if you need a pullup to something other than 5V or a different value than 4.7kOhm then yes you would need an external pull-up resistor.

I would recommend having the ECU, injectors and Lambdas on the same high power output as the Coils. The Lambdas could have trouble heating on the low power channel and it's generally best to have the ECU on the same supply as coils and injectors for deadtime and dwell purposes.
Note also the low power outputs will soft limit while in over current situations before the trip time is reached and this can cause weird issues when powering the ECU.
With the keypad make sure you only have one device listening to it and that device telling the others what the buttons states are as this prevents race conditions and prevents clashing button LED messages. For the hazards you would most likely want the front PDM telling the rear PDM the hazard output status rather than the keypad button status so that they flash in time with each other.

I just noticed you had traction limit status logged so that looks ok.  I would add dwell, trigger error counter, ign & fuel cut, to the log set.  Increase diff fuel pressure logging rate to say 50Hz to get a better idea how bad that is.  You can probably remove fuel press, aux 6 & aux 8 from the log set to gain a bit more bandwidth.  

You can switch the DI with a 12V input. 
 
i have the billet LED buttons controlling 4 DIs on my ecu. Log, Boost, Traction, Launch. 

You will need frequency dividers or a CAN wheel speed device for a G4+.  You dont want a random dropout at high speed if you are using traction control, it will give an instant 100% cut which could be quite a scary event. 
I have used these before: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/hall-p-162.html
 

It was around 250kph it maxed out as you can see by the spikes in rear wheel speed. I didn't log the frequency sorry.

I actually found a log from my friends 370Z, different ABS speed sensors, but I logged the DI input on his. It gets up to 1550hz and the signal is still ok.

 

Judging by what they told you, it looks like they were telling you the ECU can’t ‘power’ a 12V fan, which is true. It just supplies a signal to trigger the relay. 
 

Your screenshot(s) are telling you what you need to know.
TPS Sub - An Volt 7 - is currently showing 4.21v, and you're telling it to throw an error if it's above 4.00v - which it is - you're also telling it to not throw a fault if the input goes to 0.00v, which is not good either.
TO GET IT CALIBRATED ONLY - set the Error Low to 0.05v and Error High to 4.95v for all 4 sources (TPS Main, TPS Sub, APS Main, APS Sub), and then look at what the minimum and maximum voltages are (the Open and Closed voltages that are auto-populated once it's calibrated).
 
For example, if TPS Main spans from 0.55v to 4.32v, then I would set my Error Low to something like 0.4v, and Error High to something like 4.4v - this is just outside of the range of expected movements, but if a fault does occur, it'll pick it up.
 
I strongly suggest, if you haven't already, to read the Help within the application a bit more thoroughly - it's exceptionally well written, and unlike some other manuals/help I've seen from competitors, it's not just a reference guide that assumes you know how stuff already works, it actually explains what and why very well. It's the very best Help/Manual I've read in a very long time!

I had to send the dash back to AIM. It was a quick fix but something only they could do. 
It's working again now. Problem solved. 

That is fine with the single 3 core.  

Either is fine.  I typically use the 8V if you have one as it is normally spare and saves splicing into 12V.  The sensors work reliably from 5-24V.  

2 wire temp sensors connect directly to AN Temp and Sensor ground, there’s no 5v needed.
You’ll then need to select the calibration of the sensor.  

Correct, multitooth position = cam.  trig 2 sync mode = cam pulse 1X.  Offset can be anything since the CAS can be stabbed in in any position.

Im pretty sure the Nissan CAS shorts the ground pin to the body anyhow, so probably chassis is ok.    

I’m not at a pc right now, but assuming you have aux 5-8 free and the software allows you to set e-throttle relay output up as highside drive then it will be fine.  No risk of back feed with HS.

SO yes, that suggests it will be fine connected direct to ecu.

@Dean This fix in the latest release that is available on the Link website now.

From my memory of bench testing and reading the current draw on my bench power supply:

Typical inductive relay triggers draw less than 0.1A
MAC boost solenoid less than 0.1A
Wideband: up to 2A
ECU Logic and power: 0.3A or less
FF Sensor less than 0.1A
Alt sense - never tested but I would imagine extremely low.

Update:
The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily.
 
I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils.
 

 
 
I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m assuming items like boost controller, Flex Fuel sensor, o2 sensor, alternator 12v sense and relay coils won’t draw much current?

 
 

I've fixed that label thing, will be in the next release.

The MAC valve should have pretty audible clicking at 20-32Hz and 20-65% duty cycle.  400Hz would unlikley make any noise at all...  Something doesn't seem right there.

I'd put money on the mac valve just ran through this issue and it was wired correctly.  Unplug it and the issue should go away.  It is backfeeding into the aux circuit.
It should audibly click at the lower frequencies.  
I'm guessing you will need to take the boost solenoid off of the ignition key on switch and move it to it's own relay triggered by enabled conditions in the link to ensure it is not powering down at the same time the link is.  I also think that the state hold would work if you put a delay on the link to shut down after the boost solenoid de-energized.  The issue is that the magnetic field collapse of the solenoid is enough to spike the ecu through the aux circuit on key down.  I bet if you unplugged all your injectors the voltage spike would have no where to go and the issue would also not be present.  It spikes solenoids that then creates magnetic fields that collapse and induces power.

Thanks for that. 
It’s definitely been a learning process trying to replicate the G4+ settings. 
Maybe it’s just because I’m not used to it but the input/output settings are so tedious. I preferred how the G4+ had all the setting in the same spot. 

Yeah you are right, that was probably overlooked when that function was designed, we should really look at AP position when E-throttle is enabled.  I will get that on the fixit list.  You could make it work by changing the E-throttle "when stalled" setting to Run.