MichaelR32GTR

A cold cranking check is use full to know if you are in the right ball park. But a warm check at different rpm should be done to check for timing drift

The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. 
No skips possible without timing light

Will need to see a log, but unlikely the RPM lockout is your issue.  400RPM seems to work pretty well for all the E-throttle cars I drive.  

Update:
The car went on the dyno and made a respectable 545kw at the wheels (1.5JZ GT3582R Gen II, E85), the relay issue didn’t effect the tune luckily.
 
I looked closer at the Link wiring diagram and noticed the 12V supply for ‘control solenoids’ and ‘relay coils’ didn’t have a relay mentioned. My wiring had the ECU relay triggering another relay to supply 12V to both solenoids and relay coils.
 

 
 
I bypassed this relay and it seems to have solved my problem. I’ll put a small fuse on the ign switch to make sure it’s not drawing too much current. I’m assuming items like boost controller, Flex Fuel sensor, o2 sensor, alternator 12v sense and relay coils won’t draw much current?

 
 

Assuming you have trigger 1 edge is set to falling that scope would be good.   

G4+ Fury has P&H drives so that is fine.  G4X Fury doesnt so that would be the same boat as the plug-in.

Try the attached to see if EGTs are showing on the dash.  If they are, then it would also pay to test they are mapped correctly, unplug #1EGT sensor and check #1 temp on dash changes, then do the same check with #6.  This is because they make both a 3 channel and 4 channel EGT box which use the same CAN ID and format so im not 100% sure how the dash knows which is which.
For your speed it should work, the R32 has an electronic signal from the (cable driven) dash back to the ecu.  Although the reed switch is prone to dying in them.  In PC Link does your LF wheel speed show anything when moving?
michael gtr tune1-1-LESStiming microtech CAN.pclr

Has been fixed, thanks

You don’t need to turn advanced mode off.  The limiter settings will remain, just the table will need to be set up.  

Set your RPM limit to 3D like my example above.

I had similar issues and was the non resistor spark plugs I was using so check them also 

GP rpm limit
Configure it similarly the the example available in the Help file for oil pressure, but replace the axis with your EGT and the threshold you want

If you are doing it with a virtual aux then put the virtual aux on the axis of a GP limit or 3D RPM limit table.  With the virtual auxes "1" means off and "2" means on.
Example below I have set the main RPM limit table to 3D, virtual aux 1 on the y axis.  I have a 8000RPM limit when VA1 is off, and a 4000RPM limit when VA1 is on.

You could do a virtual aux like below so if any of them go above say 750°C you take action.  That action could be anything from flashing a warning light, add extra fuel, lower boost, or activate a GP limit, etc.

I have never really used EGT's as a safety tool so dont have a lot of advice.  Adding fuel doesnt usually make much difference assuming you are already richer than stoich.  If you are leaner than stoich due to a fuel issue or something, then adding fuel actually increases EGT. 
Unless you are regularly exceeding what you think is a safe EGT then as a safety I would probably just do a limp mode type limiter if it were something I was worried about.  
 
As above, fuel is not often useful to control excessive EGT.  But if you wanted to you would enable the individual cyl fuel trims, and make a table something like below for each cyl.  This example would add 20% fuel to cyl 1 if EGT 1 went above 749°C at high boost, and add 10% fuel if boost was below 100kpa.

Yes the temp side uses the Bosch Std NTC calibration.
For the pressure use this:
 

The anti-theft function doesnt have a "latch" function to enable a momentary switch to work, but you could achieve what you want by setting the DI up as a GP input and using this on a GP limit table (or 3D RPM or 3D Map limit table).  With the settings below, the ECU will always boot up with the kill DI "on".  The kill DI wont turn off until you hit the button and will stay off until either the button is hit again or the ign is switched off.  You can then put that DI status on a GP limit so that the REV limit is 0 when the switch is on (eng wont run).

 
 
 

You need to disconnect inj 7.  DI ign sw should be ok to stay connected.

The new relay:
Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45)
Pin 30 to ground.
Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). 
 
The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16.  The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.

Problem solved !
 
new “resistor” spark plugs went in 
ecu logging is off aswell
 
and wideband doesn’t drop out and works perfectly 
 
thanks once again !

wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?

I'd look into grounding.
You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. 
Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. 
Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. 
 
You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. 
Could also be a nicked wire..

Yep your file share works.
This is a weird issue, it appears like the sensor controller resets.  Just as a test can you try temporarily changing the lambda setting "run when stalled" to yes and do another run to see if it still freaks out at high rpm.
Where does the 12V wire to the lambda sensor come from?  Can you try connecting that to somewhere different (even if it is just a temporary alligator clip test lead to battery or something)

You might have to share the log via google drive/onedrive or similar.  Im not sure what error 2 means but would like to see what the temperature etc is doing before that error appears.

There may still be room for improvement.  I think I remember your idle ign table was a bit odd.  Attach another log and tune again when you have a chance.