Monsterbishi Posted November 8, 2020 Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 On 8/3/2020 at 3:26 PM, Adamw said: But as yet I don't have one to test. As a unrelated question, a while back you mentioned Link enabling the outbound data stream in the other ECU's like the Storm Black but it hasn't happened yet, is it still on the cards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 5 hours ago, Monsterbishi said: As a unrelated question, a while back you mentioned Link enabling the outbound data stream in the other ECU's like the Storm Black but it hasn't happened yet, is it still on the cards? It has worked all along. See this post: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monsterbishi Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 On 11/8/2020 at 8:41 PM, Adamw said: It has worked all along. See this post: Worked a treat, do the g4+'s have any other Easter Eggs like this, ie undocumented features? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexey Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 On 6/25/2018 at 2:49 PM, Adamw said: Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's. It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/ In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features. Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc. The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10. One example below. Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months. Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force. It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's. Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter". Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post. Edit 18 Jan 2020; Have added a zip folder with an example configuration for CAN connection using the generic USB or Bluetooth CAN Adapters (see realdash website for supported adapters). This config also includes an example of how to send an onscreen button press to the ECU. RealDash.pdfUnavailable Realdash CAN example.zipUnavailable Files are unavailable( Does it works with ios and wifi obdII? Evolink 4g+(I-III) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 4 hours ago, Alexey said: Files are unavailable Yes they are, make sure you are logged in. 4 hours ago, Alexey said: Does it works with ios and wifi obdII? Yes, but better to use the realdash recommended CAN adapter (OBDlink MX+ is bluetooth and works with iOS), although it looks like a normal OBD2 adapter, it actually can do a direct CAN link rather than slow OBD2 requests. OBD2 is much slower and has noticable lag. http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_89t2 Posted February 16, 2021 Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Probably a dumb question, but assuming I make the tweaks as described in that Realdash.pdf document previously posted to connect the Realdash app on my android smartphone via the USB tuning cable on my Link Fury G4+, would those changes prevent or impede me from using PCLink tuning software with a laptop? Obviously not looking to run both apps off the same USB cable simultaneously; I just want to know if I would need to revert the tweaks required for connecting the Realdash/smartphone usage before plugging in the laptop again and using the PCLink app? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted February 22, 2021 Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 Hi can someone show real dash settings for usb/can. I changed the analyzer to 38400bps and 250hz and configured the can chanel in the LinkEcu but I can't get Real Dash to connect. Can I set it to 500hz? I have the WB AEM connected on the same channel (CAN2) and it works at 500hz Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 16 minutes ago, pugsparked said: Solved! How did you solve the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 On 2/23/2021 at 8:14 AM, pugsparked said: Can I set it to 500hz? I have the WB AEM connected on the same channel (CAN2) and it works at 500hz I assume you mean 500Kbit/s. You can use any bit rate you like. My example was 250Kbit just because my dyno connection works better at that speed. pugsparked 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 2 hours ago, Confused said: ¿Cómo resolvió el problema? In G4x it works , I will check what I did wrong in G4+. I want to activate CAN DI from Real Dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 15 hours ago, Confused said: ¿Cómo resolvió el problema? I found it, AEM WB works at 500kbit and the can analyzer was at 250kbit. AEM WB had it turned off in the CAN configuration but it was still connected to the CAN input of Link. That gave the error, I set the analyzer to 500kbit and solved. Now I am trying to get the CAN Di to work from Real Dash, if anyone can help I would be grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Hi, I am using can analyzer and Real Dash does not indicate speed. Also Gear works intermittently. The speed is on a Di4 and I use DASH2PRO to transmit on ID 1000 at 20hz. Link ecu works correctly, speed and gear, could it be an error in the Real Dash XML file? Greetings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monsterbishi Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 22 hours ago, pugsparked said: Hi, I am using can analyzer and Real Dash does not indicate speed. Also Gear works intermittently. The speed is on a Di4 and I use DASH2PRO to transmit on ID 1000 at 20hz. Link ecu works correctly, speed and gear, could it be an error in the Real Dash XML file? Greetings! Go into Realdash, into Inputs & Values, and check that your Vehicle Speed data source is set right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsparked Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 On 6/3/2021 at 9:33, Monsterbishi said: Go into Realdash, into Inputs & Values, and check that your Vehicle Speed data source is set right. Edit: I already have speed in another car, I changed the wheel selection in the Di on the link and now they work with any of the four... The gears is what indicates one of more. I also just saw that the oil pressure displayed by Real Dash does not match that of LinkEcu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted May 7, 2021 Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 On 5/23/2020 at 3:21 PM, SchuKingR said: just download my files from the post above and then swap out the "<frames...>" for the "<frames>" and you are good to go. I can't explain it to you more, because it's not very easy for me to describe something complex like this 1. by text and 2. in english. But it's simple, just try to read my xml file and look at the pcl CAN settings and try to understand I tried using your XML and copied your CAN settings from the pclink file over to my G4X and it's not working. In the can monitor on Realdash, "It says not connected" and on the next line under it "reconnecting". I know the cable works because I was able to transfer file to the double din. Right now I have the Data Engineers Dream skin; are XML files skin specific? I am having trouble understanding how this whole thing is supposed to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 In the first post there is a zip folder with a working CAN example from a G4X, including the dash config, xml and some breif instructions. See if you can get that to work before diving in the deep end. Note I had the bitrate set to 250Kbit in this example so do the same to keep it simple as a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted May 14, 2021 Report Share Posted May 14, 2021 Hi Adam, It's having connection issues. In the can monitor it cycles between a blank screen and: "Timeout Connecting..." It's either the seedstudio adapter/PCLink/Realdash settings or the adapter plug I made. I'm using the CAN 1 plug on the XtremeX ECU instead of wiring it directly to Can2. Before tackling the software side, I want to make sure that the plug is wired correctly. I know the USB cable that's plugged into the android radio works since I could transfer files with it. I used the pinout from this post: It wasn't the same situation but I figured it would give me what I need. This is the back of the male CAN/Tuning cable plug I bought: For me to use it with the Seedstudio can analyzer, I need a wire running from pin 1 (Grnd), Pin 3 (Can +), and Pin 4 (Can -) correct? This is how I currently have it set up with the wires going to the CanAnalyzer's green plug with the screw terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 You dont need the ground, just connect the CAN H & L. Yes you have the right pins. Link2ThePast 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 Hey Adam, I configured the analyzer to baud of 11520 and then the can Bps to 250kbps as is shown in the the example file you pointed out. I decided to try and test the send receive function as outlined in the instructions that came with the adapter and I see it doesn't receive anything. I can't help but feel that this is the cause of my constant connecting/timeout issue. Any advice you can give me? Here is a snip of what I have in that configurator: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJXpxLt_EV879Xv9AcIq5Sj7sSUGdeyd/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 The default buad rate is 2000000, how many LED flashes do you get when you plug in the USB? You dont need to change the bitrate in the USBCAN software, you do all the set up in realdash. The only important thing is you need the USB dongle set to the same baud rate as you set in realdash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 I changed the baud rate to 11520. I don’t have it with me at the time of writing this, but I think it was 4 flashes, which was the corresponding number for 11520. Since I did change the bitrate, would that affect anything? I had the same issue even before changing that. When you run the set/start test, does your analyser only send and not receive as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 You have the baud rate set to 1228800 in your last attached pic tho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Looks like you were right. I just double checked again and it was too high. I'll try setting up the can profile now to see if I can finally get this to work. I will report back Edit: Looking at the Realdash can example, I don't quite understand what is going on on the ECU setup. Could you explain in a little more detail on how to set the streams up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 On 6/14/2021 at 5:31 PM, Link2ThePast said: Could you explain in a little more detail on how to set the streams up? Dont worry about the user streams to start with, the only bit you need for a working dash is "Transmit DASH2PRO" on ID 1000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.