Adamw

I dont see any harm in leaving the cap there. I dont know enough about how the differential DI circuit works to offer an explanation of the cause. Just I have seen turbo speed connected to those DI's in the past with nothing special required. But if it works and continues to work under normal operating conditions that I would be happy.

how many pins on the motor connector?

Sounds like you havent set ignition timing (trigger offset). Try it around -85 as a starting point, many RB's seem to come out around there.

The other thing you may need to do for the G35 is set the "allow CAN Anti-theft request" to off. Chassis & Body > Anti Theft.

You adjust the trigger offset until the timing mark lines up with whatever you have set in the "lock timing to" field.

After you select Injector 1 you then need to hit the ok button at the bottom (selection window will close), you should hear the injector tick. tick. tick (10 x per second) the whole time this test is on. If you dont hear ticking then your injectors are probably stuck (common if its been sitting around a while). Yes, should be on sequential. If you have checked there is a spark when cranking then trigger etc is fine. There is no factory fuel press sensor, you would need to add a gauge or sensor. A quick test to confirm if there is a fuel issue is to spray some starter fluid into the manifold before cranking, if it then tries to fire or shows signs of life with that, then that suggests you have a fuel problem. You can often spray it into the brake booster hose fitting or something like that so you dont need to pull any pipe work off.

All link ecu's have internal BAP sensors, calibrated by us. Yours is reading correct as you say you are at sea level, so something close to 101kpa would be correct. When the engine is not running, the MAP should read exactly the same as BAP. You can see BAP in the runtimes screen or on a gauge or in a log view, just like any other parameter. Your MAP is obviously not reading correctly, you would have to be about 2000M below sea level for a BAP/MAP of 123Kpa. The temp inputs should show 5V with the sensor disconnected, this is normal.

Ok, yes you will want the WRX9X ecu for that one. For the flex sensor, this needs to be connected to a digital input. The most convenient option to access a digital input is to buy an expansion harness. There are a few spare DI's on the expansion ports. This is the expansion loom: https://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2 For the 2 pressure sensors, there are a couple of options. These need to be connected to analog inputs. There are a few spare analog inputs on the expansion ports so 1 option is to use the same expansion harness as the flex sensor. A possibly easier option assuming you have removed the TGV's, then you can use the old TGV sensor wires. These conveniently give you an analog input, 5V and sensor ground already routed to the engine bay and finishing on each side of the engine probably somewhere around where your pressure sensors will be located.

Yeah the VVT table has become messed up in that map somehow. Copy the one out of the "Monsoon K20 Modelled fuel" base map. TPS usually works better than MAP for load on a VVT table. As for the fuel and ignition tables - 1 table or two is really user preference. 2 would be more correct, but I dont find it is needed unless you need to change the switch point often. I typically only use 1 fuel and ign table for Vtec engines. I get the tune somewhere close, then do one dyno pull on the high cam, another pull on the low cam, overlay the runs, where the lines cross is your ideal switch point. Set the VTEC activation to that ideal RPM then finish off the maps from there. You can add a couple of extra columns into the tables around the switch point if cell to cell change isnt linear.

I would say the reason the fuel has become very rich is because the MAP sensor is reading wrong. It is reading 123kpa at atmosphere. BAP sensor is showing 101kpa. This means you will be getting >20% extra fuel. Im not sure what you mean by "the temp sensors mark 5V"? They appear to be reading correctly in your log and map. For the fault code 118, try setting your GDI pump error value low pressure to 200kpa, so it is less than the low pressure pump.

I suspect it is mostly just the pedal to throttle relationship. Possibly too much advance at 1500-2000, but try the map below to see if it improves things. E-throttle target is much flatter at low RPM. Original: My adjustment: DBW soft target.pclr

Forgot to reply yesterday. Discussed with Vaughan and 2 x math blocks was the best we could come up with. If you want to only act on only the hot cylinder then you would set up individual cyl trims.

You will need to load the map into the Fury for it to be converted to show all Fury hardware and features.

Sure. Yes I work for Link. You can offer your device to Orlando if you wish, we already do a plug-in ecu for that car with the BEAN coms supported.

Hmm, maybe in america. JDM STI's use the EJ207 right up to around 2018/2019. Does your car have the 5 plug ecu/loom like our WRX9X?

Yes, use the DC5 base map, change IO assignments to match your wiring, change triggermode to K24 and add the e-throttle settings. A good way to see a quick overview of IO assignments is to look in the "pins" folder - for example for analog inputs go to >Analog Inputs>Input pins. There is a similar folder for aux outputs and DI's. Here you can see what pins dont match your wiring, then you can click on the pin, then double click on the "function" and it will take you to the correct menu where you can reassign.

Have you changed the factory ignition system to something different? 工場の点火システムを別のものに変更しましたか？

I made some small changes in your map below they may improve some of it. RStune20_09.22 idle and accel tweaks.pclr

You just need 1, and either one is fine, pick whichever is easiest.

This is normal. It is flashing the fault codes that you have present. Im not sure what you mean by this - do you mean the fuel pump is turning on and off with just the ignition on?

I can only offer my experience. Every time I have ever seen error 16,33&34 reported together is when there is a power supply issue. It is usually solved by fitting the cap or a dedicated relay direct from the battery with decent sized wires. The most common cause of an unrealistic lambda measurement if you are sure there is no air leak is a poisoned or mechanically damaged sensor so that is the first thing to eliminate. Oxygen sensors are quite fragile, the ceramic can be cracked easily from thermal shock, limiter back fires etc. They can also be poisoned by silicon sealant and silicone based sprays, antifreeze if there is an internal leak, carbon fouling from excessively rich mixtures, etc.

I think you would be able to use a virtual aux to activate most things. So for example below, antilag would only activate if ALS switch is on and the valet switch is off.

Yep, I would say mostly fuel. Increase the master fuel.

So you have our S13 ecu in your S15 with some sort of adapter harness in between? Who made the adapter harness? Have they given you any schematics or anything for it?

Try the offset around -85.