koracing

The three wires on an MR2 SW20 level sensor are Ground, Level output variable resistance to ground, and low level sensor sensor lamp/switch to ground.

General practice I would make sure you have a 1" twist for all bus wiring.  I've made can-gauge looms 12 feet long for MR2s as the ecu is in the trunk and not had any issues running to AIM dash, MoTeC dash, or Link CAN gauge.  I don't think 200mm - 300mm is going to be any issue.

Under ECU Settings (on the side) go to E-Throttle -> Accelerator Position Sensor (little wrench icon) -> APS Calibration (little wrench icon)

Yes for E-Throttle you need to do both Accelerator pedal position calibration and the TPS calibraion.  These would be done in the E-Throttle setup window with the E-Throttle in setup mode.

Can you run a datalog in setup mode when you calibrate the APS and then the throttle body and post that?
Your VVT intake target table going to 50 degrees advance as a starting point seems a bit aggressive to me based on other vvti motors i've tuned, but I haven't tuned a 3SGE blacktop motor myself before.

For operating the MAC valve you need an aux output that is PWM capable - and Aux 11-16 are on/off only outputs and not suitable to operate a PWM output like a mac valve.  You can use any IGN or INJ outputs not being otherwise used, as well as Aux 1-8 typically.
Also: What's a Link fast acting MAF?  Link typically runs speed density with a MAP sensor for engine load instead of a MAF.  The 350z link has an onboard MAP sensor also so no need for an external one.  Just run a hose out to the intake manifold from the ecu.

Email [email protected] and let them know what you're wanting, and your location and they should be able to provide you instructions on where to send the unit.

tried your map and its fixed the issue. thanks so much!

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

For sure the distributor trigger is the same with ST165 and ST185.  I've actually changed the connector on the harness of a 165 and run the stock ecu with the 185 distributor as the 165 distributors are long gone.  The trigger scope function should be able to look and see if your signals are good at least.  It likely wouldn't run if you didn't have something close to right, but you also likely need to adjust the thresholds.  If you aren't getting timing to sync up then you perhaps aren't pressing enter on the trigger adjustment/offset when making changes in the timing calibration window which catches a lot of people out who are new to link. 

If you needed help remotely, it should be fairly simple to change your fuel and timing tables to suit a boosted application with timing retarding with increased manifold pressure, and possibly increase fueling a bit with an expected increase in airflow and manifold pressure.  It may require iteration to do remotely, but a basic starting point should be fairly easy to set up if you post your current tune here.  Alternatively seek out a local dealer/tuner familiar with link if you are more comfortable with that.

Do you have datalogs of the car running at close to sea level and datalogs of it where the BAP is 85kpa?  You could easily switch the MAP to MGP and run a second test to see if the fueling is closer in line with what one would expect.  I downloaded and saved a copy of the tune and I'll take a look when I get some time to do so.

What voltage do you measure at the ecu power pin versus the battery voltage?  Having some voltage drop in the vehicle wiring is not uncommon.

If you are sending all 4 wheel speeds to the ecu, then seeing a difference exceeding somethreshold in those wheels speeds should indicate a lack of traction.  I'm assuming you don't have all 4 wheels fully locked together when driving - there should be some type of differential coupling that allows enough slip and potentially cause a large difference of speed between 1 or 2 of the wheels compared to the rest.  Alternatively you can try to fit a GPS based speed sensor that would be your "actual speed" versus vehicle reported speed, but I don't know how well or fast a GPS sensor acts.  Perhaps something can be done using the internal accelerometer versus rate of change of vehicle speed?

Ignition Mode under Ignition Main should be changed from Distributor to Direct Spark.  Make sure you have decent dwell tables set up as well.  Double Check with a coil test that you're firing the coils in the right order also. 
Once you have it running, be sure to re-sync timing with the cylinder 1 coil removed and a plug wire from the output of that coil to the spark plug to trigger a timing light inductive pickup while in trigger calibration mode.

Start with knock setup Gain Channel on 1 instead of 10.  Ideally you want to see it hovering at around 200 or so free revving at a few thousand rpm.  Normally until you are getting reasonable readings I would not have it retarding timing at all until you get it reading reasonable values where you can create a threshold table based on the readings.  Currently it's pulling 10degrees any time the knock signal is above zero (your threshold table is all zeros).

You dont have CAN Aux 1-4 assigned to anything in your map so they will be outputting a "2" via CAN.  When you set it to test they will be outputting a 1.  
So most likely the ECU master device considers anything >0 to be "on", so you wont see any difference between the two states that the ecu is sending and the switchboard wont handle "Off" or "Fault" statuses correctly. 
If you actually assign CAN aux 1-4 to the function you want to use them for then the inactive/active states will at least work correctly.  
 
 

@nicfabb In a drift scenario I can see wanting to use ignition instead as it does tend to keep the motor going and on boost - but I would try to make it as soft of a cut as possible that effectively accomplishes the task of holding rpm.  I can't give you specific recommendations for that personally, however.
If your friend's car is also drifting and it's working well for him, I don't see a reason why you couldn't start there.

Be careful there though as ignition cut can be much harsher on vehicles drive train/valve train (like SR20 rockers).  A fuel cut isn't an enleanment - it drops fuel cycles completely so it's not that there is *some* fuel in there causing a lean condition per-se, the injector actually doesn't inject on a cycle or some percentage of cycles so no fuel in the combustion process at all when it's cutting a particular injector.  At least this is my understanding and why I usually use fuel cut instead of ignition myself.

Hook up a timing light. Lock timing at something you can see. 15 is good on a 3SGTE. Check at idle, rev to 6000 and see how much it retards. Adjust ignition delay appropriately. 
Aaron

Before I've seen this reply, I turned oof the fuel pump control and it works fine. I was planning on changing it to PW control and set up a table for it. 
I will try screen shot you in your reply tomorrow as well. Will let you know how it works.
 
Thanks
I you can't tell an engine is lean when free revving then you shouldn't be tuning.

CAN Bus can have several items on the same bus as long as they are set up to operate at the same connection speed.

 
Also, why would you think you didn't need the Canlambda to go to the ecu?  The whole point of a lambda sensor is to allow the ecu to use it's feedback to aid in tuning or correcting via closed loop.  Do you have a different lambda sensor for the ecu already?
 

Ben, I'm unsure if you're simply unaware of the capabilities of the link ecu, or you have been mislead somehow.
1. The idea that you'll just be watching the display on a rolling road and not logging internally on the ecu to me feels like tuning with one hand behind your back. Personally, no matter how good the wideband is on a dyno, I always require a wideband on the car and wired in to the ecu with aftermarket engine management. The CAN lambda has the advantage of a much better capability to interact with the ecu as you do runs or hold steady state than any external display being monitored solely by human eyes.  Laptop logs through the tuning software with lambda right there with all the other engine parameters is extremely useful when looking back over any data.  During steady state tuning you also have the ability to use features like the quick tune function when the lambda is setup properly.  Comparing how the car acts on the real road once off of the dyno also will be extremely useful once you have completed tuning there.

2. I have no idea what makes you think that having a distributor cap means you can't pull ignition timing?  The ecu still controls ignition advance and if you've ever looked at the rotor tip on your 3SGTE you may notice it's quite wide to accommodate a wide range of ignition advance (and retard) as commanded by the ecu while maintaining good rotor phasing.  I've tuned hundreds of 3SGTEs and 90+% of them were with a distributor and I was able to successfully trim ignition per cylinder when necessary, and advance and retard the ignition timing without moving the distributor. 
I'm concerned a little bit that perhaps you did not properly sync the ignition advance in the ecu to the engine with a timing light as part of your installation?  
Please don't misunderstand - I am only trying to ensure you have the best possible tuning experience with your project and am just trying to help.

So far just AFR based on lambda for when in mulit-fuel (because I'm old and dumb and think in gasoline AFR a lot).  Lambda1 * 14.7

Other various unit converstions for kpa to psi so I can look at fuel pressure in psi but table axis in kpa (similar reasons as above). 
 

I also did a % lambda error  - I was aware of the lambda error value but it is a lambda difference or offset I believe, and not a %. 

Thanks Adam. I was amazed at the Thunder's capacity to meet my needs but I'm more amazed by the fantastic service.
6.4 litre naturally aspirated v8, 8 COPs, 2 E-throttles, 2 knock sensors, 2 wide band O2 sensors, 2 Link EGT sensors, Porsche cam and crank angle sensors.

OttoLinkThunder.pdf G4+ Thunder 928.pclr