Adamw

Ok, moved to G4X forum. Plug-in? Wire-in? What model?

What ecu do you have? Does it report an error when it freezes up or just stops progressing?

You are probably better to fix the plumbing as working that way means if the solenoid fails or a wire breaks etc your boost goes to the moon. But if you want to invert the logic, change the "Active state" setting for the aux to the opposite of what it is now in the boost control settings

A boost solenoid is just a coil of wire wrapped around an iron pole, they are not polarity sensitive and swapping the wires does nothing. What is the problem or what are you trying to achieve?

The polarity looks correct in your scope. What does this sensor point at? A tooth directly on the cam?

There is a drawing in the help file page here: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > Honda K20A VTEC Wiring

Will need to see your tune to see what is causing the overrun fuel cut to in when it is not expected. The limits flags word is what is known as a "bit flag", basically a 16bit value where each bit represents one of the limiters. RPM limit is 1, MAP limit is 2, Over run fuel cut is 64. So if only RPM limit is active the limit flag word will be 1. If only overrun fuel cut is active the flag word will be 64. If Overrun fuel cut and RPM limit are active at the same time the limit flag word will be 65. So there are 65535 different combinations of limiters covered. Try this link, I've tried to share an excel decoder. If it opens in read only mode you will have to click the edit button. Type your limit flag word into the box at the top and hit enter, the limits that were active should be highlighted red. https://1drv.ms/x/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxkEMcZGv55oQwzbU?e=bjkHQA

So with aux 4 set to test ON, what voltage do you have on relay pin 85?

You wont be able to use a 3 wire sensor to the gauge, they have a strong pull up resistor so will make the sensor and ecu read incorrect - if at all.

Yes, intake sensor to a DI, exhaust sensor to trigger 2.

That probably means you havent logged MGP.

Yeah all looks happy in those logs and scopes, the ECU would have been commanding a spark in all of those. I wouldnt worry about the timing light too much initially, the evos usually start with the offset at zero. Try it with the plugs back in, provided you have RPM that isnt dropping out you should have spark.

If your lambda target table has the same axes parameters as your main fuel table then you don’t need to specify the load value. You only need to use that if for example your fuel table uses TPS for load but your afr target table uses MAP for the load axis. Have a look at this video from about 6:00 for an example of using quick trim: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszwGHNUSbvWjCT-D

To the intake cam sensor

Then you do this in the VVT menu. There is a "Monsoon Honda K20" map in the base maps folder that you can use as reference.

So you have wired something wrong then. Can you tell us what ecu you have and what aux you have wired the relay to.

Can you give us a pic of the cam sensor. There must be some way to get acceptable voltage out of it otherwise the factory ecu wouldnt have worked either.

I just looked at a couple of files I had from other GTR's with PRP triggers. They didnt have one tooth ground off so their offset doesnt translate directly to yours, but if I look at where their #1 spark occurs compared to their cam tooth position (I expect your cam tooth should occur in a similar position to theirs), then I come up with offset numbers around either +150 or -210 for you. That would be about 40deg more advanced than you have it now. Some of that could be due to the cam sensor being in a different position though. So since you say you have an occasional hint of it catching at 107deg, that would suggest you are probably firing on the right phase. Can you try your offset at say 120, 130, 140 just in case the other guy has got that offset wrong somehow. See if it sounds closer to running with these offsets. Also bump your master fuel up to about 10ms.

67DegC is correct for 1.7V.

Yep aux 2 would be a good option.

Very, very rare to damage an injector drive in a Link ecu. The fet for each drive is rated for 60A continuous. Flyback is clamped at 80V like most good ECU injector drives. You need to clamp it high to get good injector performance. You will generally melt the connector or burn the track off the PCB first before you damage an injector drive. Ignition drives have no flyback protection but that's why you have an ignitor, it is meant to handle the current and primary flyback, it doesnt make it back to the ecu. Aux outputs are flywheeled.

Can you pop the lid off the CAS and check if the 4 tooth chopper wheel looks modified. The firmware engineer says the code expects the trigger 1 teeth to be about 70deg wide and the gaps between them to be about 110deg wide. But in your scope they look more like 90 & 90deg. This could be something wrong with the CAS/modified - or it could (more likely) be caused by the crank slowing down more than expected due to compression at TDC etc. Does it crank relatively smoothly and sound like it cranks strong or is it really struggling? If you pull all spark plugs out (so it has no compression) do you then have RPM reported in PC Link and regular spark?

Is aux 2 for your VTEC high/low cam, not VTC right?

I've passed your scopes onto the firmware team for their thoughts. The message about reconnecting with different settings usually means you changed something in the ecu then turned ignition off (or it lost power during cranking etc) before it was stored. So the ecu will revert back to old settings.