Adamw

The layout is not saved in the ecu, it is the screen layout for PC Link to display on your laptop. It will be the same no matter which ECU you connect to the ecu. Note you cant use G4+ layouts in the old G4 PC Link.

I havent come across that one before so dont have a lot of advice to offer. But I would try a different laptop if you havent already. I would also disconnect CAN bus or unplug ECU, and any other inputs that are connected to the dash if any. There is also Aim support office in AU that you could call to see if they have any advice.

There are no units settings in the old G4. For some such as oil or fuel press you can just change the units in the cal table to psi then use the parameter "AN V2 - Oil press" instead of the channel "oil press". For some of the special channels like MGP there are seperate Kpa and PSI parameters. Logging Status works for me. Check you are using "Logging Status" and not "Logging Status - Old"

I have heard of any need to change anything for the common OBD2 hondas. Does your fan work if you set inj6 to Test (ON) mode?

Hmm, dont think so. No known issues with the G4+ Polaris trigger mode. We used to make the Vipec plug-in for the RZR so it was very common and well tested. At least I see no cases related to it in our support ticket system, and certainly no contact from any USA dealer in our system recently that I can see. G4X will definitely help with having the MAP sensor on the scope so we have something to help set it up right.

You could either enable multiple boost tables and switch between the tables with the DI. Or you can stick with a single table and just put the DI on one axis that table. Depends how complicated you want to get.

Issue one usually means the main power supply to the ecu is missing (pin A5). If there is no 12V supplied to this pin the ecu will still power up via a backfeed through an aux, but a backfeed generally can only supply very little current. So as soon as you try a processor intensive operation such as firmware update or sometimes even a store the ecu will brown out. So unplug ecu and confirm there is actually full battery voltage on pin A5 in the loom. Issue 2 - will need to see a log. In G4X the idle valve does the integral component (long term error), while the idle ignition does the P & I component (immediate error correction). If the oscillation is due to the idle valve position then it would suggest your integral is too high. Issue 3 - I dont have any experience with the 2 wire LS alternators, I have only used the 4 wire ones. Looking at diagrams on the web one pin is sense and one is the lamp. Sense pin would usually be connected straight to battery positive. The Lamp pin would be connected via a bulb to ign switched +12V - and this pin would certainly ground at times but shouldnt above 2500.

Both the oil press and MAP sensor inputs show zero volts. This means those inputs are in fault state and using the error value (100kpa for MAP). Did the oil pressure used to work? I would start by confirming you have 5V and ground at those sensors before replacing them. It would be unlikely for two sensors to fail at the same time.

Try something more like below. Usually you want a lot of retard so that restoration of full torque from zero torque is more gradual. Deactivation RPM I usually find more like 1500RPM works ok from me but I dont normally need to experiment with that too much. Also, make sure the VVT isnt activating/deactivating right on the same RPM as that will make a big jump in torque too.

I wouldnt worry about the idle valve postion, that will have no effect. For the stumble I suspect possibly too much fuel. When you stab the trhottle the active cell moves from the green cell in the picture below to the red cell so this adds quite a bit more fuel. Usually I find most engines the low RPM columns are similar numbers all the way from low MAP to high MAP. So when you consider MAP has been increased by 2.5X, fuel table number has increased by 1.8X, accel fuel is multplying by 1.35X, you have a total of 600% more fuel going in when you stab the throttle. Have you tuned the red area of the fuel table steady state?

Use the map below as a starting point. You will have to assign all IO to match your wiring. New 4age20v.pclx

The help file in PC link has all the ECU wiring info and general info on connecting most common sensors. It wont have much info specific to the 3UZ. The ECU pinout is in the quickstart guide that comes in the box, if you didnt get that you can grab it from the webpage for the Storm ecu. Typically the loom design would be done by someone familiar with standalone ECU wiring and would take significant research of the chassis and factory engine schematics to find pinouts for all factory sensors and plan it all out - where the splices need to be, which device gets power from where etc... There are some resources online such as HP academy which will help you through the process but it will be a big learning curve for a 1 off.

Generally to assign an input or output you go to the function you want to set up and assign it there. So for example the fuel pump, go to >aux outputs>fuel pump. Set pump control method to "standard", then set pump relay output to Aux 1. It will pop-up with a message something like "ISC solenoid is already connected to aux 1, would you like to disconnect ISC solenoid", choose yes and it will remove aux 1 from the ISC function and connect it to the fuel pump function.

The dash coolant temp gauge is not connected to the ecu at all, it is completely independent and uses its own sensor. From memory the gauge temp sensor is on the front of the thermostat housing and is a single wire. The one for the ecu is on the back and has two wires.

You will need to do a log, there is no way anyone can help without it. Running rich for a short period of time under no load is not going to do any harm. Likely related to the issue in your other post with the 5V error as the knock sensor circuit has nothing to do with the 5V output at all so there is still an issue there somewhere. The only way disconnecting the knock sensor could change the 5V output was if there is a short in the loom.

The unlock code would usually be provided to the recipient with the ECU. I would try contacting [email protected] with some details about who the ecu came from and the event etc, hopefully they will be able to track it down.

Attach a log

I dont see any problem in your setup and everything appears to be working correctly. Are you sure these are not old/historic faults? If you clear the fault codes, do they come back right away? >ECU controls>clear fault codes.

I dont have any evo specific experience but your pressure sounds in the ballpark I would expect. The only cars I have good exposure to coolant pressure was in a categore of modern Toyota single seaters. They didnt run thermostats, just a fixed restrictor but coolant press in those trended quite well with RPM, peaking at about 35psi at redline. They were only low boost engines. I would imagine with a thermostat you will see a little more variation.

Yeah the Aux outputs have 1.5Kohm pull-ups so they arent going to drive much load. You would expect a device like that would only be logic level though and wouldnt need any current. What does the multimleter show on the pump controller ign terminal with the aux in test mode high state?

You will need a CANJST4 cable to connect to the CAN socket on the S2000 ECU. https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANJST4 G4X setup is much the same as G4+, here is the manual for the Link branded gauge: https://linkecu.com/documentation/Can Gauge Online Manual.pdf

The target will effect both cranking timing and idle timing. Typically an engine will require the same amount of advance for good idle as it will for cranking. So if it needs 0°C for cranking then it should idle well at 0 also. If not then your best option would be to turn off idle ign control and set up a 4D ignition table to do the idle timing - similar to how the idle ign table used to work in G4+.

I would suggest trying Aux 2 pin 104 or Aux 5 pin 35 as these have a built in 12V pull-up. The injector drives dont have a pull-up so wont give a 12V output.

This means you have something overloading the 5V regulator. Could be a failed sensor or a short to ground somewhere. Start by unplugging all sensors to see if the 5V output comes back up to 5V. If it does then plug one sensor back in at a time until you find the culprit. If 5V doesnt return to normal with all sensors unplugged then there is a wiring issue - since it happened after some work look for potential issues such as a wire snagged in the bell housing or similar.