Adamw

A couple of things to fix. Your MAP sensor is reading wrong. It should read the same as the BAP sensor when the engine is off. I suspect your ecu is one of the newer ones with the 7Bar MAP so try changing the MAP calibration to 7Bar, then do the calibration and check that BAP matches MAP. Your battery voltage is only showing 8.5V. The statistics saved in you map suggest RPM was working at least at some stage in the past. Can you go to the triggers/limits tab on the runtimes screen (F12) as per pic below and tell me if trig1 signal and Trig2 Signal show yes when cranking.

FYI, you will find more complete pinouts in the G4X manual or G4X PC Link. Yes, Ign 4 is used for 2 different fans. Evo 4/5/6 has one of the fans on different pins to Evo 7/8, so the 3 pins cover all models. Ign switch is on pin 82. The G4X manual will probably show that. But be aware, if using a wire-in ecu and keeping the stepper motor idle valve you will need to incorperate the proper ECU hold power circuit into your wiring as per the manual. Our plug-in ecu's have this circuit on the adapter board.

The file is attached to the other thread I linked to a couple of posts up.

The map should be much smaller than 2.44Mb, typically about 400kB for a G4X. However, you can share a link using google drive, onedrive, dropbox, wetransfer or any other of the many file sharing options. Google something like "how to share a file with one drive" to learn how to do that.

It's like im trying to extract teeth or something... Im trying to help you in the middle of my weekend, please attach your map so I can take a look and offer the next steps in diagnosing.

Please attach your map. Your triggerscope above still shows no signal but let me see if there is anything odd in your map that could cause that before giving you info to diagnose it.

The factory ecu used MAF to determine load so that works fine. However when you are using MAP to determine load, that doesnt always work so well as the look up for the vvt control. The problem is most apparent at high vacuum cruise conditions, when the cam position has a large effect on MAP - so having MAP also controling the cam position at the same time works against you - you end up with the cam oscillating backwards and forwards as the MAP oscilates backwards and forwards in a self-perpetuating loop. In contrast, TP still has a strong relationship to engine load so is still relevant as a VVT lookup - but since it is not influeneced by cam position it doesnt inherit the control problem that using MAP can. Having said that - I still see many tuners using MAP or MGP as the VVT look up and I used to use it a lot when I started tuning too - many of our older base maps are set up this way and it can work perfectly fine. However I have noticed over time TP typically gives more stable cam control, especially under cruise conditions. I guess one arguement is having the same load axis on the vvt table as the fuel table means the change in VE due to cam position should in theory be easier to compensate for - however I have never yet had drama acheiving good fuel control when using TP on the VVT tables and MGP on the fuel table.

As described in the video I attached, you need to click the capture while the engine is turning

The aux outputs are internally flywheeled. No need for an external diode.

>file>save as is how you save the map. The file will have have a .pclx extension. Was the engine cranking when you clicked the trigger scope capture button?

The ECU is showing 5V on those pins so that suggests ECU is working ok. With the sensors unplugged, do you have 5V on one of the pins if you measure with a multimeter?

Add 1%DC to the whole DC table (click in the grey cell at top left corner then type "+1" enter). Then do a log and see if/how much boost changed. Make your next adjustment based on how much it changed in the first test.

Can you attach a copy of your dash config and the ecu map.

Nothing is going to work until you have RPM showing. Please do a triggerscope while cranking and attach that and a copy of your map here. How to do the scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=cX0ybg

Not presently possible for ethanol content (can do fuel temp via analog). It was decided to omit that option some time ago as none of the analog output options I looked at the time handled the sensor error conditions properly (or at all). Can you not splice into the digital sensor signal wire and connect it to a DI (with pull-up off)?

Can I get a copy of your current tune too please.

You probably should contact NZEFI for help with this since it is not a Link product. It should work no different that plugging in the normal USB tuning cable.

Those toyota studs are M12 to M8 from memory. I havent seen one for a long time but Im pretty sure the RB knock thread is some tappered pipe thread, something like 1/4bspt.

Is it manual transmission?

I cant really make anything out from your photos, but one side of the IAT should connect to pin 36 and the other side to any sensor ground - that could be 26/30/34/50. If in doubt, unplug the ECU and IAT and use a multimeter to beep out which pins the IAT plug has continuity to.

Please attach a copy of your map and a log of it running or cranking.

Yes, no cam signal and also your crank is incorrect polarity too. Swap the +/- wires on the crank sensor.

Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car. EJ207, quad VVT. Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas. Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up. It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector. All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.

Well, the ecu doesnt control the starter motor, so if the engine is not cranking you have a wiring/battery/starter problem.