Adamw

Right click on your existing fuel/ign table in PC Link, the >Import/Export>Import from file.

There are a combination of factors. It looks like Post start enrichment is quite a bit of it, when that disables around the 50sec mark your lambda is back to about 0.85. So you can reduce that and its hold decay time quite a bit by the looks which will help. IAT fuel trim should normally be off for modelled mode, although it is not having a big effect in this case. Otherwise I would guess the charge temp approximation is a bit too heavily biased to ECT in the idle area. I would not recomend adjusting that at this stage as it will effect the whole tune. If you want to pull a bit more fuel out for cold start I would turn on a 4D fuel table, put ECT on the axis and remove a little that way.

What are you wanting to do?

Not directly to a G4+, you will need a PDM to apply the logic functions such as latch/toggle/count etc and control the LED's. It is planned to add direct CAN keypad support to G4X, but it is a while off yet.

Please attach the triggerscope and a copy of the tune.

In the Link looms we use 0.5mm2 (roughly 20awg) for the majority of the wires, except for the two black ground wires and the main Red 14V wire which are 0.85mm2 (roughy 18awg).

The calibration from the help file below. Im not sure what the absolute min/max it is capable of but the ecu will extrapolate beyond the calibration points with linear cals.

All current G4X ecu's have knock control. The Atom and Monsoon didnt in the first release, but both have had it for a year or so since hardware V3.0

Both. It is applied all the time, or you can use it to correct the fuel table then zero it out. Correct. Note, it is only available in G4X ecu's.

The message about serial number will always pop-up because the hardware mod doesnt change your serial number. You can ignore the message, it will pop-up everytime you open the CAN set-up screen but it wont prevent anything for working. Im not sure what you mean by "doesnt seem to record any changes I make". The change will happen live as soon as you hit the apply button at the bottom. You then only need to make sure you do a store before shutting off power.

I have PM'd you info.

Start with these basic checks:

Can you measure resistance between the +12V and Ign pins. If it is less than about 2ohms then there is no ignitor, if it is more than a few hundred ohms then they have ignitors built in. You could still be 360deg out though, firing on exhaust stroke.

You could try temporarily changing regional format to English US, but I havent heard of any issues with Malaysian formating before so I dont think it is that. If that doesnt help I think I would try a clean install, maybe on of the parameter lists is messed up. Save ack up copies of any custom layouts and basemaps somewhere safe. Uninstall PC Link. Completely delete the Link G4X folder from C:. Completely delete the PC Link folder from C:\Users\*your user name*\AppData\Roaming (you may need to turn on hidden items in windows explorer to find this). Install fresh copy of PC Link.

Do the coils have ignitors built-in?

Can you attach a pic of >help>about as requested earlier. What language and region settings is windows using? Have you tried a different laptop?

What specific model ECU do you have? Also, what is the serial number?

Still not much closer at this stage. I dont want to make a guess, but based on the time frame of the last couple of plug-ins we have released I think it is still at least 6 months away.

You could do it several ways, but below is the closest option to how you propose in a binary sense. Use 2 virtual auxes - you only need 2 as the 3rd combination would be assumed anytime the other 2 are not true. The other other would be to receive the data as a two bit value - say use something like CAN AN Volt channel, then the 3 switch positions could be represented as a value 1/2/3. You could put the CAN AN Volt directly onto the boost table axis.

Something like below would do it.

No, ECT is included in the CAN stream, you dont need another sensor.

Timing light is the next step. Note the logged ignition angle is just whatever is being commanded in your ignition table. But it is irrelivent if the offset is wrong anyway.

No, trigger looks ok. The unstable RPM at the start of the log is because the RPM calculation is based on every tooth until it has "synced", then after sync the RPM calculatiopn is averaged over 1 or more TDC events (depending on the RPM filter setting). So what you are seeing is normal for a low inertia engine that has quite unstable cranking speed. Obviously it is not going to start reliably with no cam sync and direct spark ignition. You can use cam level sync for this engine. Set trigger 1 sync tooth to 1, set trigger 2 sync mode to cam level. This means the ECU will check the cam level at the first tooth after the gap every crank rev. Since the tested cam level is high during one rev and low on the next the ECU can determine phase from this. Since TDC is 11 teeth after the gap (approx 110 deg), your trigger offset will likely be around -110 or +250

Yes. AN Volt would be correct. Use the 1000Kpa TI sensor calibration. AN Temp 3 is on pin D14, it is used as the factory air temp sensor on Spec C models. Std Bosch NTC You would need to wire in an external pull-up resistor to connect a temp sensor to a volt input. Why do you have 2 coolant temp sensors?

No, that is all it needs, CAN would be broadcast instantly as soon as ecu receives power.