Adamw

The resolution of the channels are hardcoded, you cannot change it. Why do you need a resolution of 0.1kpa when even a good qualtiy pressure sensor such as a honeywell PX2 has a total error band of +/-2% full scale. So if your 1000kpa oil pressure sensor only has an accuracy of +/-20kpa it seems pointless to display with a resolution of 0.1kpa?

Whats the resistance of those injectors? Do you still have the ballast resistor in place? Does it not get leaner if you make the value in the fuel table smaller?

Ok, set the multimeter to the lowest ohms range it has (often 200ohm), or if it is an autoranging meter then just set it to ohms. Unplug the CAN cable from the ecu and from the Lambda. Hold one multimeter probe onto pin 4 on the DTM connector (numbers are on the back near the rubber seal) and the other probe on the centre pin (white wire) on the white JST plug at the ecu end of the cable. If you have continuity your meter should read near 0 ohms (say less than 1ohm). If there is no connection between these pins it will display something like "OL". Also check for continuity from DTM pin 3 to the green wire in the JST connector. Also confirm the green wire is on the correct side of the white wire as pic below.

Your symptoms suggest the ecu is not powered up. I would start by unplugging the ecu and confirm you have 12V on pin A5.

We dont have any suitable control strategy for this at present. I can add it to the feature request list but it will not be for some time. You may be able to control it using 2 change over relays to form a motor reversing circuit.

In the ecu config you have the dash set up on CAN1, but your dash is wired to CAN2. So, turn off CAN1 and set CAN2 up similar to what you have here. Except I would suggest you change the Mode to "Transmit Link MXS Strada Dash" instead of generic dash.

The pedal position sensor has two outputs, these need to be connected to analog inputs. It will also require a 5V supply and a sensor ground. The Throttle body will also have to position signals that get wired direct to 2 analog inputs. It also need a 5v supply, a sensor ground, and then the 2 motor connections which connect to aux 9 & 10. For the attessa signal it will be easiest to keep the haltech box and just splice that in to the TP main signal - same way the cable throttle was done. I would probably suggest you get someone who is good with wiring involved as you are going to need to splice into the main 5V and sensor ground somewhere and need a proper crimp tool unless the Boomslang adapter has a "spares" connector with these already avaliable.

Is you CAN cable definitely plugged in to CAN1 port? Assuming it is then the other possibility that springs to mind is I have seen one or two of those NZEFI CAN cables pinned wrong in the past. Do you have a multimeter so we can check continuity end to end across the correct pins of that cable?

You could try leaving the AC controled by the factory ecu, but connect a wire from the AC Clutch or relay to the ecu DI so that the Link ecu then knows when the clutch is engaged. It wont work quite as well as it would with full ecu control but that may also be difficult depending on how complicated the factory climate control system is.

It looks like all the basics are present and working in your log. Have you confirmed base timing looks ok with a timing light? If not then that would be the first thing to confirm. If you have already confirmed base timing and it looks close enough then the next thing I would try is add 360 to your trigger offset (so for example if it is -6 now then try 354). The offset is 360 different depending on if you are using the front or back cam sensor.

You have no output assigned to AC Clutch. What is controlling the clutch? In the log the AC request is off but you obviously have some load turning on/off that the ecu doesnt know about?

It may be the problem but I wasnt suggesting it was - I was just answering your question or doubt about how can an input pin work as an output. There could be a hundred other things wrong. If you want help with the dash set up you will need to attach your tune and dash config.

From memory the block error 2 is something to do with the trigger circuit. The arming threshold shouldn’t change by itself. So I would suggest you contact [email protected] to get a service form and return the ecu for inspection. It will likely be a repair or replacement under warranty.

DI 9&10 and CAN2 share the same pins. You can only use one or the other. So as long as DI9&10 are set to off then CAN2 is available on those pins.

The Xtreme also has CAN2 on the main B connector. Generally this is the easiest as the loom comes with wires already pinned in those holes.

If your car has a high level tacho that was originally connected to the ignition coil primary then it likely won’t work connected directly to the ecu. A tacho booster is generally the easiest fix if your tacho is a high level type.

If it stays at zero when you should have oil pressure something is wrong. Have you measured the voltage coming out of it with a voltmeter?

It appears to be a wideband one so it will likely be fine. I have no personal experience with it.

can you attach a log.

Only the dealer you purchased it from can help.

Yes, turn auto connect off, go straight to firmware update without connecting pc link

You definitely do not want AP on your fuel table, it has no direct relationship to engine load at all. MGP is generally the best/easiest option if you have a single throttle body.

If the ecu connects to all other laptops besides the tablet then I dont think there is any point sending the ecu back. Maybe start by looking at the differences between your tablet that works and the one that doesnt. Look in device manager and compare the the USB chipset/hub/root hub etc. The fact that windows doesnt recognise it suggests there is something not right on the USB side. Have you swapped the OTG cable between tablets etc? Tried a usb hub?

That error usually means you have a parameter that can only be transmitted in your receive stream. When you go to >Parameter>add, make sure you have the receive filter selected like below:

The wire in ecus have basically the same cable inside, just a shorter length. You can de-pin or snip the tx/rx wires.