Adamw

At the time you saved your map, your baro was 100.3kpa. So, a boost target of 140kpa absolute in boost target 1 is 40kpa above atmosphere or 5.8psi. In boost target 2, a target of 326kpa would be 226kpa above atmosphere or 32.7psi

The lambda looks a bit unstable since the fuel table is bouncing between a cell with 38% and a cell with 62% so flattening that out may help. VE numbers wont be all that relevant since you have a stoich ratio of 9.7:1 set up but your flex sensor is only showing 60% eth so it is going to end up quite rich. You should also turn off the IAT trim table for modelled mode. Otherwise I dont see anything else unexpected, it looks like it just needs to be tuned.

It is really just down to the old fashion trigger design in these engines. I believe the factory system probably used the extra 4 tooth wheel in the distributor to sync quicker in batch fire mode during cranking, that would allow it to sync within 180 deg of crank rotation. However, that system only works with a distributor, you would never be able to convert to COP or even wasted spark with that technique so hence we dont support it. So with only one sync tooth on the trigger system, the engine potentially has to rotate up to 720 deg before it can sync. If you changed to a missing tooth crank trigger then you could halve that worst case sync time to 360deg. Having said that - are you sure it is a sync problem? Even 720deg should only take about 1.5 second to sync.

You didnt attach anything, but yes, you can either swap between E-throttle target tables using a virtual aux, or another option you can just put gear position on one axis of your E-throttle table like below.

Tell me which ecu pin your clutch switch is connected to and I will confirm if it is connected to anything in the Link ecu. The factory service manual I have does not show any clutch switch - at least in the ecu wiring.

You are not going to be able to get a 70% torque reduction from retard with a turbo engine. You will be lucky to get 20%. 70% will need a cut. You will be best to use the gear shift function if you need that much.

There is no clutch switch connected to the ecu n a V7-9 as far as I know. You will have to wire one yourself. You can use any spare DI.

You must of used up all your allowance already. You can share files using google drive, onedrive, dropbox or similar.

you can attach the file here.

So you are trying to target 5psi boost on 93oct but 33psi on ethanol? I would expect if the hardware is even capable of that much variation, your wastegate DC tables are going to be very different. Right now your DC table 1 has 18-20.5% to achieve 5psi, yet according to DC table 2 that same 20% DC will give you 20-25psi?

The retard is just be because you passed through the same cell in your knock trim table again that already had the 5 deg retard from the last knock event. That retard will stay saved in that table until either you have driven long enough in that cell with no knock detected that it advances back again - or until next power up when it will clear the trim tables. The count doesnt increment because there hasnt been any knock detected.

0.782 will do as a density for E85. For the fuel table, import the one out of the Monsoon base map as it is very typical and will run or at least start most car engines.

So did you try disconnecting the relay pin 85 when it is back feeding? This simple test would confirm right away if the relay is sticking (very unlikely) or if it is staying energised due to your wiring on the pin 85 supply. The fact remains the solenoid can only click if it has near 12V across it. The aux output is effectively a ground when the ecu is off. So that means there is 12V on the relay side of the solenoid, that 12V can only be coming from the relay or something else connected to that same relay pin such as the flex sensor.

If its been sitting a while with ethanol in it I would first suspect the injectors are stuck. You can use the injector test function to turn each injector on individually while listening for the clicking. Unplug the fuel pump relay first so it is not spraying fuel when you are testing. Similarly you can use the ignition test function to check there is a spark on all 4 plugs. Pull the plugs out and rest them somewhere so they are grounded. Ign 1 test should make #1 & #4 plugs spark, Ign 2 test should make #2 & 3 plugs spark. Nothing looks too out of place in your log.

Your trigger setup looks ok assuming they are the 3 wire hall sensors, so there should be a signal. What you can do to diagnose is unbolt the crank sensor (leave it plugged in), and with ign on, while watching trigger signal runtimes you can wave a spanner or some other iron object past the sensor and the trigger signal runtime should show yes. If no joy with that then check with a multimeter there is 12V at the sensor and you can also check if there is a 0-5V signal coming out of the sensor when you wave the metal past it.

No, you are making it more complicated than it actually is. It is simple - the absolute only way Aux 4 can backfeed is if there is some voltage on the other side of the boost solenoid. According to your diagram there is only two ways this could happen - either there is 12V coming out of the flexfuel sensor (via the DI pull-up) or that flex fuel relay is staying engaged. If it still happens with flex sensor unplugged then that rules that path out. The only 12V source left is from the flex relay. So this is why I say to unplug or snip pin 85 on that relay. So this proves the voltage is coming from that relay. If that relay really was already "off"/open then unplugging it would do nothing.

The only way the solenoid can click is if there is still 12V on the feed side of it when the ecu is off. So for whatever reason either that Ethanol sensor relay isnt shutting off or the wiring isnt like you draw it. Did you try with the flex sensor unplugged? Another quick test would be if you snip/disconnect the 85 wire off the ethanol relay when it is back feeding does it then all shut down?

This.

Ive had a quick look over the tune and nothing leaps out at me as obviously out of place. What I would do initially though is change fuel mode to modelled (rather than multi-fuel) treat it just like it is running on a single fuel, as that then takes a whole lot of settings out of the equation which will make it easier to diagnose. Can you give us a short log of it running? How come the fuel tables in the attached map dont have 100%VE in the idle area like you say but it appears it was idling when you saved that map?

If it feels like it is shutting down, I would start by setting set up ECU logging, record battery voltage, a few other common variables as well as trigger stuff at 100Hz. That should at least show if there is any shutdown going on due to lose power connection or if it is just a misfire.

Or just put the resistor at the furtherest end right from the start. The only thing that is required is a resistor at the far end of the bus, there is no need for it to be close to a device.

The bottom one is the only one showing correct polarity. So for it to work you will need to find why the cam sensor disappears. It suggests to me that the cam sensor is only getting a ground through the crank sensor wiring somehow, so you either have some wires crossed or the pinouts of one of the sensors is wrong.

If you want help with anything you need to attach your tune and a log.

Unfortunately no - at least it is not functionality we had planned for the near future.

If the coils are wired wasted spark then yes you could run it with no sync to get a capture. Otherwise you can run the engine fully sequential as I mentioned earlier using the cam window sync mode. This will at least give you the home position scope, it may freak out when the cam is moved but Im not sure.