Adamw

Ok, you can see in my picture below the falling edge of the crank is very close the the falling edge of the cam (green dotted line). This will be a problem when there is a small amount of cam movement the cam edge will cross over to the other side of the crank edge. The best fix for this is to change the trigger 2 edge to rising, leave trigger 1 edge to falling..

The two small pins are the coil (just like pin 85 & 86 on a normal relay) and the two studs on to are the high current contacts (just like pin 30 and 87 on a normal relay). How it was controlled by the OEM is anyone's guess, it may have been done by the ECU or possibly the dash or even just a circuit in the push button. The ECU can do push button start control but you will still need an ignition switch to power up the ECU.

That looks like it is just a relay, what makes you think it is anything special?

Correct, most analog cruise switches (variable resistance) do all 4 functions (enable, cancel, set, resume), and then in those few cars that use the digital input method you will find all of the switches will be digital inputs, so the ECU has only been designed to work with one or the other, not a combination of both. Your car is the first time I have come across one that had a separate enable switch with all others as analog signals. No the firmware has been designed to only allow one or the other, since you have an analog switch assigned it will ignore the other. You would want one side of the switch connected to ground and the other side spliced to AN6 or the other cruise switch signal wire, the resistor can be on either side of the switch.

Yes your log shows trigger issues so it is possibly the cam edge clashing with the crank edge. Can you do a triggerscope and attach the file here. With the engine idling, go to >ecu controls>trigger scope. Click capture, then save.

Turn off the GP Speed 1 input. Go to the chassis and body menu and set up like below. Also, your pressure calibration still looks wrong. 150Kpa isnt enough for oil or fuel pressure. It would be more common to have 689Kpa (100psi) or 1034kkpa (150psi).

In that case yes, the 12V and Gnd on the CAN2 connector is designed for exactly what you want to do.

I assume you are talking about a plug-in ECU? Which specific ecu do you have?

No, loading in the base map should have fixed that. From our notes it appears the temp gauge is controlled by CAN so the fact that your temp gauge is working suggests the CAN is still there.

Ok I see the problem now, you have cancel switch set up as both an analog input and a DI, all cruise inputs must be one or the other. So a couple of options; You could rewire the cruise on switch with a resistor to the same analog 6 as the other switches so that all cruise switches are then seen as a variable voltage on AN6. I would need to know the resistances of the other switches to suggest a resistor value. Another option is you dont actually need a cancel switch (although resume function wont work without it) - so you can use the cancel switch as the main on/off, just by assigning the correct voltage in the analog switch thresholds. This is because you have both cruise on and cancel set to the same voltage - so effectively it is seeing both buttons pressed at the same time.

Yes, A1 should have +12V ignition switched power from the ignition switch. It is only a low current trigger so doesnt need a relay. Once the ECU receives a 12V signal on A1, then the ecu will send 12V out of pin A24, this signal is to turn on the main EFI relay. When the main relay engages it then sends 12V into pin A31 which is the main high current power supply to the ecu. There also needs to be a constant 12V feed on pin A33 (live all the time).

Ign 1 = coil 1 & 4. Ign 2 = coil 6 & 3. Ign 3 = coil 5 & 2. For the fuel, this firing order doesnt allow semi-sequential so it will have to use multipoint group. So its not going to matter how you pair them up - just wire them in pairs, any two injectors to any drive.

Well you dont have speed, fuel or oil pressure working in your ecu either... This is because you dont have any wheel speeds assigned in your map, and your oil and fuel pressure calibration table is just zero. If you tell me what oil and fuel pressure sensors you have I will set it up for you.

Well you dont have speed, fuel or oil pressure working in your ecu either... This is because you dont have any wheel speeds assigned in your map, and your oil and fuel pressure calibration table is just zero. If you tell me what oil and fuel pressure sensors you have I will set it up for you.

Please do a short log of the engine cranking or running and attach the log and a copy of your map here. What is the resistance of the injectors?

I dont understand what you are doing sorry. You asked for trigger settings - Now you are saying you are replacing ECU??? If you dont believe the injectors are working you can use the injector test function:

Basic trigger settings will look like my picture below. Trigger offset is unknown, you will have to use a timing light to determine this.

How sure are you the tacho ever worked with our ECU? If it's not working when you load the unmodified basemap map in then it suggests the CAN is different in this car that the TT. Did you car come with the AMB engine or has it been swapped? We dont have AMB as a supported platform on our compatibility list.

Pull the lid off the ecu case and turn on the ignition, if the ECU has power there will be a blue or green LED glowing on the top board. It should show up in device manager as a com port even if the ecu is not powered up. So please confirm if the LED is glowing or not first then we will decide what to test next based on that.

Are you looking at the parameter "Cruise control status", it should toggle between off and enabled everytime you press the button/switch. Yes. Just do a Log showing you pressing the cruise on button a couple of times. It forces the DI latch off because you cant have a latch on the DI as it is already built-into the cruise enable function.

It should be set to momentary and you have to press the button/switch for at least one second from memory. If it is not working for you then please attach your tune and a log.

Everything looks set up correct in that map but it weird you still have errors showing on CAN 1 when it is turned off. Did you restart the car after turning off CAN 1? Can you try loading in the Audi TT base map and see if the tacho works with that? You mentioned earlier you had added a CAN lambda, what do you connect that to?

Are you checking with the engine running? If E-throttle "when stalled" mode is set to quiet then it will only work when the engine is running.

Delta time functionality is on the wish list and will probably be added to the G4X software, but there will be no further updates to the G4 software. There is no such function at present. I suggest you look at megalogviewer HD for a bit more dedicated log functionality.

To calculate air mass you need a VE based engine model. The G4+ and G4X has a modelled mode but not G4.