Adamw

There is a calibratrion resistor in the sensor connector that connects between pins 1 & pin 5 (shown as red and green wires in the table below - but be aware there is actually no green wire on the sensor side). This error means the ECU is not detecting any resistance between these two wires, so its suggests there is a disconnection somewhere. Start by unplugging the B connector from the ECU (leave sensor plugged in at the other end) and measure resistance between the APE & MES pins, it should be between 30 & 300ohm.

Sorry, I dont understand your question. Can you try to explain in more detail what problem you have?

They will always show as off. The Aux output runtimes will only show active when the injector or ignition drives are assigned as aux outputs. Have you actually pulled a plug to confirm there is no spark?

There are several Evo X's out there running the Kurofune. Can you please post your tune, log and triggerscope.

Yes you can control a watsegate in the normal way using CO2 as your propose and it will alllow higher boost pressures. Note however it will be controlling the intake manifold pressure, not dome pressure which is what most people refer to as "CO2 boost control".

You wont be able to use AN Volt 5 for a normal analog input since it has a pull-up resistor as Vaughan mentioned.

For the idle control it appears you are trying drive the valve further than it actually moves. As far as I know the GM steppers can only move approx 250 steps from fully open to fully closed. In your log it is up at 415. So this possibly means your throttle blade is open too far. I suggest you set your min clamp to about 20, max clamp to about 220, then put it into open loop mode and command the idle valve to about 150, then adjust the throttle stop so that the idle speed is about right at normal warm operating conditions. Then you will need to redo the base position table during the next cold start before switching back to closed loop.

The IAT compensation figures you quote usually work ok for most. Where is the IAT sensor placed - does it give a good representation of what the air temp in the manifold would be? Can you explain how better what the problem is; Are you saying when your IAT is close to 20deg then the fuel table is adequately calibrated so the measured lambda follows target well, but when your air temp increases from 20deg then your measured lambda drifts leaner than target? What fuel and injectors?

I would say with a car that age you should be fine. Measure with a multimeter to check if either of the abs sensor wires are grounded by the abs unit, if one is then splice into the other one and connect it to a DI. Leave the pull-up turned off. If neither wires are grounded by the ABS then you may have to try both wires one at a time to see if one gives a suitable signal.

I dont think the trigger disc being upsdie down will worry a G4+. As far as I know it is just looking for the widest slot, it doesnt care which order they are in.

Sorry, there is no dome pressure control functionality in the G4+

I dont see any of the common signs in your log that the ecu is not happy about the trigger signal. Do you injectors click and coils spark in test mode? Is there still 12V at the coils and injectors when cranking? Can you do a triggerscope so I can take a look.

The dwell scatter you see in your log is pretty typical for a low tooth count trigger connected to a camshaft. Early evo's and MX5's are just as bad. If you want less dwell then you can command less in your dwell table but there is always going to be a lot of scatter either side of whatever you command. The only way to improve that is more trigger teeth, and less mechanical backlash in the drive system.

I dont see much wrong in your tune. I would turn the lambda target overlay off but that is just going to make it richer. Im not convinced the trigger is happy though. Notice the cam sensor only comes down to about 1.2V, rather than zero. That is right on the threshold where the ecu considers it "high" so it may upset the sync. Are you sure it has the right value pull-up resistor on the LH inlet cam? Is the cam sensor ground connected to ecu sensor ground?

Ok, just had a closer look, I think there may be a labeling issue with the expansion connector. Check out the schematic below compared to the manual, DI8 & 9 are swapped. Can you try setting DI9 to GP input and see if that then switches on/off. If that is the problem then you will need to change the DI8 activation in the boost settings too. Please confirm and if it is wrong I will let engineering know so it gets fixed.

So turning on the pull-up connects 12V to the DI8 pin, so that proves the DI is working. If the pull-up makes the DI work, yet flicking your switch doesnt, then that means there is no 12V coming from the switch.

It looks set up ok to me and DI8 is fine on the evo3 ecu. What happens when you turn the pull-up on, do you see the DI8 status change right away?

If you send it back to Link head office in NZ we can do a "bottom board swap", this is where we switch the adapter board for one that matches your car. It is pretty reasonable cost, from memory <NZD$300. It has to be done in-house as it goes through a production test afterwards to confirm all is working correctly.

What ecu? Please attach the tune.

Its running now if you read above. His trigger was not the same as a MX5 as most GTX's are. Im not sure if it has had a tooth cut off for some reason or if it was a factory change.

Error 2 I believe is something to do with an SPI bus timing error. According to engineering the two most likely possibilities to cause this are an internal hardware issue or extreme EMI noise. I think you have ruled out a hardware issue so I would be leaning more towards a noise issue. Do your mates Fury work ok on his car or is it not fitted to a car? Can you try turning ECU logging off as a test - I believe ecu logging can put a lot of traffic on the SPI bus in some cases.

Dwell scatter is just a result of a poor trigger, the ecu is getting unreliable and erratic information on engine position so it cant reliably predict when the next firing event will be. In order to get the spark at the right commanded angle then it has to shorten or extend the dwell. Those engines only have 4 teeth in the distributor - so the ecu only gets an update on engine position effectively once every 180 degs of creank revolution - effectively like a 2 tooth crank wheel. On top of that it is made worse by the fact that it is mounted to the end of the camshaft with a coupling that has significant backlash, which is exposed to all the valvetrain harmonics since the drive end of the camshaft is at the other end of the engine, which is then made worse by being coupled to the crankshaft with a rubber belt. If you want good dwell control then you will need a good crank trigger.

You can try more and see if it helps, whether you get any increase in ignition energy or not will depend on whether the current dwell is fully saturating the coil or not. No it is not normal to increase dwell with RPM, the main factor to compensate for is battery voltage. The reason for the second axis is many coils overheat if you run them near full saturation for long - so the RPM axis (or MAP in some cases) can be used to allow you to give the coil less dwell when cruising etc to allow the coils to cool, then only give them the most around peak torque where the most ignition energy is required. No personal experience with those coils, but 25psi is about the limit of stock RB neo coils from hearsay.

Moved to G4+ forum. Question 1. When the "set base timing" screen is open the ignition advance is locked to whatever value you have in the top field, when you close that screen then the ignition advance returns the the value commanded by you ignition table + all the other trims. So if you see a big jump when you close that screen then it suggests you have much different timing commanded than what was is the lock field. You can see the final value that the ecu is commanding by looking at the "ign angle" runtime. Question 2. You have "VR" sensors, their voltage output is relative to two main factors - "air gap" and the speed of the tooth moving past the sensor. So, output varies greatly with RPM. Often <1V during cranking, and on some engines you see >80V at high RPM. Also - Very important - your CAM sensor is wired backwards, you need to swap the +/- wires. Crank is correct.

Can you attach the tune also please.