Adamw

If the tune is password protected then your only option is to either get the password or load a new unlocked map in and start tuning from scratch.

It would still be recommended to shield them. Yes the factory got away with it and optical sensors do tend to be less sensitive but the factory probably also put a lot of thought in to mitigating EMI in other ways.

Im not sure what you are asking here? Do you mean there is glue holding the original nissan ecu into the case? If that's the case then a common method is heat. Most common adhesive systems start to breakdown at about 80°C so you might be able to heat one of the surfaces that the glue is bonded to with a hair drier or heat gun to weaken it.

From that log I would say the idle valve is not working at all. Most likely is has either failed electrically or is gummed up. The test I suggested earlier will confirm.

It can be done in the G4X presently with GP PWM's (still need to assign an ouput pin at present tho) and will likely get some sort of "PWM virtual aux" functionality added soon. Unfortunately unlikely in G4+ due to constraints in the firmware.

It doesnt look bad now. Try your minimum clamp at 50 or 55 and it might get to the target a bit quicker in the first couple of seconds.

I just had another thought. I cant remember how difficult the 2J idle valve is to get at, but if it is not too bad could you pull the motor out, and then with it still plugged in switch the ign on/off to check it is actually moving. When you turn ign off it should wind all the way in, then back out a little. Also check the mating half of the valve body is reasonably clean so it is not jamming.

Ok, i might give you a couple of other files to try tomorrow to see if we can work out what is happening.

Ok, It's odd that the valve needs to be open so far, usually these engines are at around 150 steps for a cold start yours is at 50 and still appears to need a lot less. So you can try dropping the min clamp to about 25 to see if that helps, I dont like going much lower than that as it will bottom out and lose position. If that doesnt help I think you are going to have to open the throttle stop a little to allow the idle valve to work in a more normal position.

Still doesn't look right. Did you turn the ecu off for 10 secs after making that change?

It should work provided you have an ecu with high side drives (most plug-ins dont). You will need to put a resistor in line also to simulate the lamp. Something like a 68 or 82ohm 5watt wire wound resistor should do it.

Ok, try out the attached file. The gear cut settings should be a good starting point but you will need to tune it based on how it feels and logging. I have set up the timer based boost. It works on both the high boost and low boost tables. If you watch the boost table and press the clutch pedal (with car not moving), when you let go of the clutch you should see the boost table cursor jump to the left hand column then move to the right over 5 seconds. You can change the time scale to however you like. Raceevo Launch boost timer and gear cut.pclr

The ECU has a MAP sensor on board so boost is already taken care of. IAT is already there. Oil pressure in a GTR is not connected to the ECU, it is just a standalone gauge in the dash. So my suggestions below are not really super important items to have displayed on the dash but they are good to have connected to the ecu so you can set up some safeties and/or log them (of course they are available to display on the dash too): Oil pressure. Fuel Pressure. Lambda. If its doing track work you may want to consider oil temp also. For boost control you will need a 3 port mac valve. Any Link dealer can supply all of this or there are various 3rd party options. For the Lambda I would highly recommend a CAN bus type controller. For the pressure sensors make sure they are a decent reputable brand.

Does race studio 3 show a valid lambda and lambda temperature in the live measures section? In PC Link runtimes screen does Lambda 1 and Lambda 1 temp show anything?

It should be channel CC20 if you are using the default ECU stream.

Can you zero out the startup step table, and change your ECU hold power/keep alive time to 10seconds, then log the next cold start.

There are several problems with your idle setup. The main one being that the keep alive time is set to zero so the idle valve cannot reset after the engine is turned off. So next time you start the engine the ecu has no idea where the idle valve position is so it cant move it to the correct position. So set the ECU hold power/keep alive time to 10 seconds. Your idle base position table will then probably need some re-tuning. Do us another cold start log after changing the keep alive time (ignition needs to be turned off for 10 seconds before restarting after changing this setting).

You don’t need to do the find devices thing anymore. It should just work. Under analog inputs have you set Lambda 1 source to Link CAN? You can look in the runtimes screen, ecu status tab at the Lambda 1 status to see if they are.talking.

Ok, try these. The ECU should receive parameter "Lambda 1" and "Lambda 1 Temp" from the dash. MXm with lambda transmit.zconfig 1_SubaruWRXSTIV8JF1GDBLH33G045680 with lambda.pclr

That is the correct part number. Its been a long time since I looked at one but from memory they come with that "sleeve" which is actually the rubber gland that goes inside the backshell. So just the photo on the website is not correctly assembled.

Its not clear what you mean by "default input". In the stock car the clutch switch is not even connected to the ecu, DI 5 is on the expansion harness, have you actually wired the switch to the ecu?

Do you see the DI5 runtime change status when you press the clutch? Can you attach your tune.

I have not used a MxM before but it looks like it should be possible. If you attach your ECU and dash config I will take a look.

The new relay: Pin 85 to ground. Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45) Pin 30 to ground. Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16. The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.