Adamw

Say you had DI1 and DI2 as your WMI level switch and WMI failsafe input. Set up below would only turn on the boost solenoid power if both of those DI's are off.

You will need to change the disc to one that has a single window for the "cam sync". Although you are correct in that the stock disc coupled with a separate crank trigger would give enough information needed for sequential triggering, it would need a custom trigger decoder written just for you which is unlikely to happen.

No, there is not much you can do software wise if you are using interpolate mode. Your only option would be to use another aux to turn a relay on/off that supplies power to the wastegate solenoid.

In the ADU CAN template, what is the multipler and divider currently set to? It should be 1 and 1 but I have noticed last time I used one some of their scaling or units are messed up in the background. If 1 & 1 doesnt work try a divider of 1 and multiplier of 10.

XR Pilot is correct, Pin 31 needs a +12V signal before the ECU will ground pin 4.

There is Aux output 8 on the expansion connector. Depending on how the supercharger needs to be controlled Aux 8 can do PWM up to 300Hz with a user configuarble 3D table, or it can be set up as a "GP output to just turn on/off based on conditions you set. To access the expansion connector the easiest option is to buy a Link expansion loom from your dealer.

Not a great photo but yes it looks like a G3 LEM. The G3 only had 1 digital input and it is possibly already used for OEM functions that the adaptalink connects to - for instance vehicle speed sensor. You will need to look at the map to see if it is assigned to something important already. Pinout is on page 16 of the manual: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2542

Yeah thats not going to work. I=V/R = 5V/10ohm = 0.5A. So with a 10ohm pull-up each resistor is going to pull 0.5A. The 5V regulator in the ECU is only capable of about that total and it has to power all the other sensors in the car too. Unfortunately, although 99% of coils out there with a built-in ignitor would of worked with this 470ohm pull-up, these VAG coils are a bit of an odd exception so you've got a combo of ECU and coils that were just not designed with each other in mind. One thing you could try is keep the 470ohm pull-up but connect it to 12V rather than 5V. The 389ohm coil resistance working against the 470ohm 12V pull up should mean the coil will see about a 5.4V signal. Pin 54 is 12V.

If it is set up as a frequency input then it will show active when there is a frequency greater than about 1Hz. If it is set up as just a GP input with on level high then it will show active whenever there is more than about 1.5V on the input. If it is set up as a GP input with on level low then it will show active whenever there is less than about 1.2V on the input. Are you running two blended wastegate tables for the flex fuel at present? Are you using open loop or closed loop boost control?

It won’t be 0.389 ohms? What was the multimeter set to when you done that test? Maybe Kohms?

Im not sure if you are testing correctly, but you should not have 8-9V going to the fuel pump when the relay is off (after prime has finished). It should be close to zero volt as one wire should be ground and the other should be the open circuit side of the relay?

I’m not sure I understand what you wrote, but the “AEMNet -“ wire from the wideband needs to be connected to CAN L at the ECU and the AEMNet+ needs to be connected to ecu CAN H.

Its not looking too bad but I just noticed a stuff up which means we might have to have another go at it. Your "fan 2" is on all the time which would mean the fan step would have been acting all of the time. I suspect if we fix this it will throw the idle base position out again and the E-throttle target will probably need a tweak too. So, can you set the FAN 2 temp to something like 150deg C so it never activates. In the idle settings change the fan step to something like 0.3%. Do another log of a cold start, idling until warm.

Since your current x axis is doing nothing you can just put your analog pot on the x axis of the main table. The RPM axis is rarely needed. The only other option is to turn on 3 seperate E-throttle tables and switch between them using your pot. That will only give you three different pedal curves though.

Can you attach a log.

Can you unplug a coil and measure the resistance between coil pins 2 & 3. I have a vague recollection that some VAG coils have quite low resistance and it may override the pull-up.

Here is your tune set up with the analog lambda changed to AEM CAN. 4ag_AEM CAN.pclx

Attach your tune.

Did you do this: You dont need to click done, I suggest you leave the set base timing screen open until you have finished adjusting.

You need to double click on the wrench symbol where it says “set base timing “

There is no highside drive hardware on most of the plug-in ECU's (a couple of exceptions on specific models only). It will work in test mode as there is a weak pull-up resistor to 12V, so when "off" it will output 12V. I think you will have to re-wire your lamp so that it is connected to 12V and the ecu controls the ground side.

The G4+ Atom doesn't have a triggerscope, only the storm upwards in the G4+ range. RPM and dwell is stable in his cranking logs so that is a good indication it is correct - still a chance it is not but that's not going to stop it from running and higher RPM logs later will confirm. The onesix industries trigger kit has no information on the trigger offset so you are on your own to find it. Start by adjusting the offset in say steps of 30degs while cranking (make sure you hit enter and the number turns blue) until you see the timing mark, once you can see a mark then adjust in smaller steps. Even once you have the offset adjusted so the timing marks align, it may still not run - if not it probably means you are firing on the exhaust stroke, so you then add or subtract 360 deg from your offset to make it fire on the compression stroke.

Something like this will do:

I think there are quite a few factors all having some influence. I will list a few in no particular order: In about the first 3/4 of the 788 brandshatch log it looked like you were either learning the track or learning the car (or maybe it was wet or something) as throttle input was fairly erratic and rarely above 60 or 80%. In the road test you were at a stable 100%TP for a decent period. This has two consequences; 1, your boost target is based on throttle positon - in closed loop control theory this is called your "set point". A relatively slow control loop needs to be very well tuned to cope with an erratic or rapidly changing set point. 2, I suspect that the wastegate DC table probably didint have much testing or tuning done in the lower boost target/TP cells. In the later log, as well as tune improvements your throttle is also fully open much more and far less erratic so some of the improvement was due to the driving style also. The wastegate DC table still looks like it needs a little work. In all the places I looked it seemed to need about 6-8% less DC than what is in that table. In the 788 brandshatch log most of the oscillation was coming from too much Integral gain. I see you lowered it in the later tune but it still looks like it has too much. Try dropping it to 0.1. I think you could try increasing both Prop and derivative. Try adding 50% as a quick test. The over boost cut is due to the TP being only at about 65% for most of the spool (lower boost target) and boost control had already entered stage 3 (integral is switched on). Then you open throttle more (increasing boost target) so the integral winds up while it is trying to reach that target and you are also pushing in way more DC from the wastgate DC table which causes the big overshoot. I think a combination of all the suggestions above will help this. Maybe flatten the boost target table a bit, get the numbers in the wastegate DC table closer to correct and reduce integral. You can try changing the base DC mode to stage 2 only but I would only do that if the rest of it doesnt fix it.