Adamw

Just for your info - all the common ones I have seen (garret & BW) have a "divide by 8" circuit built into the connector. I believe this was because back in the day most compressor wheels had 8 blades so it would output one pulse per rev. So your example would actuallly give a frequency of ~2100Hz. So, fine for a Thunder but too high for the smaller ECU's. @Booston If you dont have a Thunder you will have to do something like this:

What do you mean by "it doesnt read", does it show 0% or some other value?

Gear shift control is fairly complex and probably not something that can be explained in a single forum post. Most of the gear shift control settings are quite well explained in the help file. There are some set up examples on the page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Motorsport > Gear Shift Control > Gear Shift Control Examples I suggest you get all the basics set up calibrated and working yourself first - gear barrel position, gear lever force, etc, then post your tune and some logs for help at that stage. As for the strain gauge - most are pretty much the same, just go for a reputable brand. Make sure it has the amplifier built in and a 0-5V output. For a common saloon car length gear lever with the strain gauge in the shift knob you will need something capable of about 12Kg or 120N max load. I have used Holinger and KA Sensors before, both pretty pricey.

I dont ever remember that ECU being marketed as compatible with Auto trans models but I might be wrong. It does appear to have most of the basic trans IO taken care of. I think the most likely cause of your limp mode is pin 11 - Aux 7 which is a "Throttle valve position" signal to the trans. Plug your stock ecu in and measure the voltage on pin 11 at various throttle positions. Then back in the Link ecu you can set aux 7 up as a GP PWM and try to duplicate that signal.

There is no CAN EGT's set up in your tune. I dont see anything obvious wrong in your log, but 25% throttle just to get it to 2400RPM suggests something is not right. Did you check base timing?

Yes, turn the Y axis scroll bar option on or use the shift+up, shift+down short cut.

I will confirm what oversteer says - they are not great injectors. There seems to be some type of material inside these that "swells up" when exposed to most liquid fuels, even with normal pump gas and E85 the flow rate drops off quickly over the first couple of days use and continues to drop for sometime after. They are also prone to sticking shut if you leave them for more than a couple of weeks with fuel in them. Most reputable companies that still sell them will have a fairly clear warning or disclaimer on them now. Fine for a race car if you maintain them but not good for street. Also beware of the common 1600cc "827" CNG injector - that is also a bad choice.

What do you have for an air bypass? Have you changed the brake system so they will work with no vacuum?

The official quoted maximum operating voltage is 22V, this is intended to give a bit of headroom on the common drag racing 16V systems. I wouldnt recommend exceeding 22V.

What ECU do you have? The wire-in ECU's dont drop out until below about 6.5V, the ADC's start getting inaccurate about 6.8V. Some of the plug-in ECU's wont go that low as the main relay control circuit will cut power to the ecu before then - in this case it could be fixed by a small change to the wiring. You dont want a cap or any other type of filtering on the ECU batt input as that measured voltage is what your deadtimes and dwell is based on.

Yeah, the plug-in ECU's E-throttle control is fixed at 500Hz. Still, I havent seen anything that didnt work well at that - maybe a bit more noisy than if you could go higher.

You can already do this. In the CL idle speed control settings you can set the Base/Target table Mode to 3D. You will then get a new "Target RPM trim table". Put AC Clutch Aux out on one axis (1 means off, 2 means on). Then you can add say 100RPM to your closed loop target when AC is on.

Sorry for the slow reply. In my experience it is pretty normal to reintroduce power while the barrel is still moving the last little bit, and I havent seen any wear I thought was excessive. You are correct in that you would lower the voltage tolerance if you wanted only re-introduce power when fully engaged. What is the "start shift validation time" set at? 5-10ms is where I normally have it. Also have you tried lower upshift force to see if it makes it feel better or worse?

Help>Wiring Infomation>Thunder Header Pinout

Attached map with EMP moved to CAN 2. Also about AUx 17, I dont know what type of signal the controller needs but Aux 17 is a low side drive - that is is can only supply decent current to ground. It only has a very weak pull-up to 12V so may not be enough for the controller. Put a multimeter on that pin and see what voltage is coming out when active. 257531303_EG33ThunderStartModA.pclr

Your log shows lambda and sensor temperature is coming in over CAN ok. The Lambda value however doesnt look correct. Are you running the correct ADV sensor? What does the lambda show with the bluetooth app?.

30% eth @9:1 with 70% petrol @ 14.4:1 would give you a stoichiometric ratio of about 12.78:1. Density will be about 0.758.

The Kurofune has analog outputs specifically for doing this. You will however need to know what voltage the stock ecu needs to see at various RPM/load points so you can duplicate it with the Link. Generally you would do that by leaving the MAF connected initially and log it so you have some data to use as a starting point.

Yep that would be fine, or use Aux 6 for the new relay.

Can you also give us a photo of the back side of that DTM4S so we can confirm the H/L are in the correct positions. I don't remember what Jigga009's problem was but vaugley recall he didn't have comms until he done the firmware update.

I have used several of them and they work fine for me, although mine are quite early revisions he has possibly messed something up since? The Link mode is preferred as it will disable CLL when sensor status is not ok. Edit: Also check the ECU firmware is recent, from memory CAN lambda input was only added to the firmware somewhere around V5.6.2

No, any CAN bus should be terminated at both ends. The ecu end has termination built-in but you need to add termination yourself at the other end. Some devices will work ok without it and others will not, I'm not sure with the Spartan as I have always wired them with the bus properly terminated. Have you set up the Spartan in "Link mode"?

Yes, you can just connect them both to the same CAN bus. Both use the same 1Mbit speed by default, AIM use a CAN ID of 1000 by default and the Toucan uses 1500 & 1501 by default so they will be all be happy together.

Yes, that is normal, only when an output function is set to an auxilary type function the off/active labels will work. For the ign/inj drives when used as ign/inj they will always show off. Have you checked base timing is correct with a timing light? Have you tried adding more fuel (make master fuel number bigger)? Can you attach a map and log again.