Adamw

I would not risk it with a GT101 on a missing tooth wheel, for UK$20 you can replace it with either of the ones I linked. The GT101 has "logic" built into it to correct the output to allow for variation in air-gap and wheel run-out etc. When it sees a "missing tooth" it tries to correct for that and distorts the signal around the gap.

For The TPS you would be much better to convert to a proper viable TP sensor. You get better accel enrichment using TPS, with the switch type TPS you will have to use MAP to detect transients for accel which is slower to respond and more difficult to tune. The Variable TPS will also give you a bit more adjustability for functions like idle speed control lockout etc. If you are sticking with distributor ignition then the stock 3 tooth trigger signal will be fine. If you want to go to coil on plug or sequential injection then you will need some sort of unique TDC sync such as the separate crank/cam sensors you mentioned or a missing tooth wheel in the dizzy.

HP Academy would be a good place to start: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ This is nothing to do with the engine ECU, you will have to correct the problem then reset it with the proper diagnostic tool. There is a base map supplied with the ECU that will allow the engine to start and run. You will still need to do all the pre-start and after-start checks outlined in the manual as well as trigger calibration etc. It will likely need some adjustments to get it running good enough to drive depending on how modified the engine is. Nothing official here. My feeling is any such map would unlikely suit your specific engine much better than the base map so I suggest just stick with that and do the bare minimum of driving until you can get it properly tuned.

Hi Tim, The limitation apparently is the amount of memory that is allocated to that function and it is not easy to adjust that allocation without upsetting other stuff... Both the number of frames and number of parameters will eat up that allowance, so the limitation is a bit of a moving target. I wa thinking since our "Generic Dash" stream has quite a bit of "junk" (or not so commonly used parameters) I wonder if it might be a better option going forward to use say the "Dash2Pro" stream as the base to build from, as it has most common parameters and less crap. It uses 3 sequential ID's so you could just add anything extra on the end using a new ID.

I pinched this pic off HP Academy's forum but you would typically splice your 5v, sensor ground & injector supplies similar to below.

So you're sure it is a G4+ and not a G4? - The blue ones look almost identical. So have you tried G4 V4.10.2 from here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.10.2.1784 Setup.exe and you were using the red icon on your desktop?

I think you will need to get connected to the ECU to determine what the problem is. What ecu do you have? Can you post a pic or something?

The Plugin ECU doesnt have P&H drivers so that setting is not available. Is this a brand new ECU or has it been used before?

Im not sure on this, I dont ever remember needing to send that many parameters from the ECU, although I do understand what you are trying to do. I could reproduce it here but I got up to 14 frames and 43 parameters before I got that message. I have put the question to engineering to see what they come back with.

Ok, some files attached. Note I just modified the files I had set up for the other guy so it is laid out a bit different than you had it and I have probably named some of the channels lightly different than you too. There are 3 stream files attached for the ECU and a CAN template for the dash. The ECU setup is a bit trickier this time. You will notice I have 3 data channels turned on. Channel 1=Transmit user stream1, Channel 2=Transmit user stream2, etc. Each one of these channels needs a different ID. Channel 1 ID=768. Channel 2 ID=784. Channel 3 ID=800. Channel 1 settings shown below: Set up of channel 2 & 3 are similar just with the ID's quoted above. Now we move to the streams tab and you will load the relevant stream file(attached) into stream 1, 2, & 3. When done you should end up with 3 streams that have 1 frame each like below: LINK_Barge Special_@20180415_081726_007640.xc1 Stream 1.lcs Stream 2.lcs Stream 3.lcs

Doesnt this gearbox have a gear position sensor? Could use ECU gear detection or do you run a slipper clutch?

Correct, your shift RPM is typically way past your torque peak so risk of knock is low by then. Correct, again cylinder pressure is low at 30% throttle so there little risk of knock under this condition. Im not sure if that sounds like enough for any noticeable antilag effect, I would expect positive pressure in most cases.

Yes I have just stumbled across that same problem a couple of nights ago. I was configuring a dash remotely in Canada the other night and couldnt get the dash to work properly with any custom compound CAN message, it appeared to work with sequential messages ok. Even if I only sent one parameter sometimes it would work, other times it wouldnt. I can only assume they have a bug in their more recent firmware. I run out of time setting up that one so sent him some sequential config files to try later but havent heard back if they worked or not yet. I will report back when I hear any news. Unfortunately I dont have a dash here myself to test. Edit: I see I have just had an email back from the other user saying the custom sequential stream I done for him is all working (he wanted knock count and a few other parameters displayed). Sequential is a little more workin our software but if you give me a list of what you want transmitted I should be able to set something up for you.

The main grounds are on Pin 39&48, and the main 12V supply is on pin 38 & 47. Try an aligator clip jumper lead direct to battery to isolate which one of these pins is disappearing when cranking. Note these two grounds and two power pins are linked together internally so you only need to test one of each.

It sounds like you might be displaying the wrong parameter. Can you attach a copy of your layout file. >Layout>Save Layout as

Ok, good work. I too notice the 3 lowest baud rates dont work with USB (they might be for the old serial connection option). I will get engineering to take a look at that next week to either fix it or remove those options.

Have emailed you

I dont know of any dealer in that area that would be capable but it is a relatively simple procedure for someone familiar with SMT soldering. It would be a 10minute job for an electronics guy if you have a local TV repair guy or similar. I can email you instructions later. Also note it is a free of charge service if it comes back to us, you just need to look after shipping both ways.

Yeah weird. I could only explain this by a dead area in one of the TP sensor tracks. It is relatively common in high mileage cars as the potentiometer wiper does a lot of work over the small area around idle & cruise. You might have to follow Simon's advice and connect the TP main sensor to both analog inputs.

Hi, thats a weird one. Normally that unable to connect message only pops up if there is no power but the LED and your testing suggests that is ok. Can you confirm there is nothing plugged into the CAN1/RS232 socket?

Yes it could potentially be an issue especially if you are using ignition cut. Having said that I have only ever had a couple of guys have an issue with this. Usually you can just set your RPM lockout to just below the shift point to solve that. For one user we had to put a timer on one axis of the knock target table, the timer was reset by gear shift status, so every time a gear shift occurred it adjusted the knock target slightly higher for a few tenths of a second. Lockout for antilag would normally be taken care of by the "TP Low" lockout as the antilag is only active with throttle closed when knock control is not needed. To run anti-lag be aware you will need to convert your brakes to a pedal box or something like an electric vacuum pump as you will no longer have manifold vacuum to drive a booster.

This is what I was using: So in your CAN template you just broadcast "AN V6" The ECU sees that it is configured to temp units by a cal table and scales the CAN data appropriately. I tried both a linear calibration and a non linear table and got the same result over CAN. One catch to look out for is that last 0x0E frame gets shortened to 6 bytes, some devices might not interpret that correctly?

CAN capture below of the full message. Red is the EGT's. EGT was 399°C Blue is WG DC, 30% Green is %Eth, 75%. Magenta is Eth temp, 100°C

Please describe what engine and sensors you have. If your ECU has the triggerscope function please do a triggerscope while cranking and attach a copy here. How to do triggerscope video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY Also please attach a copy of your tune file.

In your logs you have something weird going on with accel enrichment also. Even though TP isnt moving much you have lots of accel enrichment activity. Check your accel setting, something must be wrong there - maybe sensitivity is too high.