Adamw

Then your Trig 1 is reluctor. Trig 2 is hall. Sync mode is Cam Level, turn the pull-up on, edge setting doesn't matter.

The crank could be either, the cam will need to be a hall sensor to work with the long tooth. How many wires do your sensors have?

As well as Clint's advice about Inputs/outputs, I would say choose the Nissan GTS-GTR plugin basemap in the Basemap folder, this is from an RB25.

Correct. Make sure the MTX black wire is grounded on the engine block. We need to know what type of oil press sensor you have. Is it a 2 or 3 wire? part number? Correct. Yes it will all need to be setup with correct calibrations etc in the software. Give us some more info about what temp and pressure sensors you have and I will post a couple of pics to help.

It sounds like you might just have fouled spark plugs. Pulling the leads out increases the gap that the spark must jump so this will give a much higher HT voltage. This higher voltage spark is then enough to "burn through" whatever deposit is insulating your spark plug electrodes. Try a clean set of plugs.

No the wideband alone is fine for closed loop. As far as I know on engines that do cylinder deactivation, as well as cut fuel and spark, they also have some mechanical system to stop the intake and exhaust valves opening on the deactivated cylinders. The is no function in our ECU's designed specifically for this type of system but there are possibly ways it could be done. Not for beginners however and I would imagine you could soak many hours into tuning such a system for very little reward.

There are some instructions in the help file for the Motec ADL, You can follow these for the set up of the Link end. For the Motec end I have recently updated our template so I will attach that below. To install this into the Dash you go to Connections>Communications>CAN1>Select>Import, then browse for the .CC8 file below. Set the rate to 1M. Also attached is a document to show how our parameter names translate into Motec channels. Link G4+ Generic Dash to Motec C127.CC8 Motec Can channels.pdf

From the info that is available I'm pretty sure it should be workable but as yet no one has sent us a dash and I dont know of anyone trying it.

Set it to RPM/Speed mode. Set detection type to user defined (since you already have the ratio numbers in your old map). Copy ratio numbers into the ratio table. Check there is a driven wheel speed source assigned under >chassis and body>speed sources. That should be all it needs. If it still doesnt work then attach a copy of the map.

Hi Hans, I believe Mapper's question was referring to the comments he found in this post here: Although there are improvements planned for E-throttle ISC in the future, for most users the existing functionality works perfectly fine and there are no show-stopping issues. We sell many plugin ECU's for E-throttle cars and have very few reports of poor idle control, when there have been it is usually just tuning related.

Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up? Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6. It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map. Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all. Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed. I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off. You can connect that to an aux out if you wish. Without it connected it will just charge all the time. Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch). Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57. Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground. ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47. You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.

Yes you can do this a couple of different ways. One option is; In the ECU you still assign the function you want to an auxiliary output - lets say as an example we set up engine cooling fan on Aux output 1. You dont physically connect any wires to aux 1. You then use the "A1 (status)" parameter to send to your PDM over CAN. The Aux status parameters are sent as follows: 0 = OFF, 1 = OFF, 2 = ON, 3 = FAULT. You can use the Multiplier/divider/offset to scale that into numbers that your PDM wants. For instance if your PDM wants 0=off, 1=on, then you use an offset of -1 to get that. Heres an example: An alternative option is very similar to option 1 but use a Virtual auxiliary rather than a real auxiliary - this allows you to keep the real auxiliary output free for doing other stuff (you only have a max of 8 virtual auxiliaries however). Set up the virtual auxiliary just like you would set up the normal auxiliary, then send parameter "VA1 (Status)" to the PDM. Here is an example for a Virtual aux set to fuel pump. (note the ECU will still handle the normal fuel pump prime logic etc):

They will need to be connected to analog inputs. The best option to connect these is using an expansion harness - they are quite low cost from a link dealer. You will need two expansion harnesses to connect 3 analog sensors.

For the G3-G4 firmware upgrade you will need an "upgrade code", I will attach some instructions below for the procedure. Correct this is normal practice to run the shields through a separate pin of a bulkhead connector. It is fine for the knock and trigger signals to be "un-shielded" for a short length. It is good practice to reduce EMI but I have seen many without the suppressor and I never had a problem myself. The aux outputs can drive 2A. Assuming the VCT solenoid coils are less than about 14ohms each then it will be fine to have them connected parallel to one aux. The trigger wiring is the same regardless of firmware so Im not sure I understand the first bit of your question? For the 12V supply, yes it should come from switched 12V. G3 to G4 Upgrade.pdf

I think this might just be a small change within PC Link (rather than a firmware change) I will enquire and see if it can be done. Seems like a high idle even for a race engine. What max RPM lockout would you like? Note I think you could already achieve the same function using the dual ignition table - you could set up a virtual aux so that it only activates the 2nd ign table under idle RPM/TPS conditions (your lockouts). You can then put idle target error on the axis of that 2nd table.

Correct, we cant go backwards sorry. Open both applications side-by-side and step through each menu item. Heres a couple of tips that make it a little easier: Click the drawing pin at the top of the ECU settings pop-out menu to lock it out. Modify your layout so the settings pane is larger so you dont need to use scroll bar etc some of the more complex settings. Control+click on each category/folder to open up the whole category in one pane. For tables - in G4 you can right click>export to clipboard, then in G4+, right click>import from clipboard.

Ok, idle valve operation is looking reasonable now. A little more AC step is needed. We will also bump proportional, and add anti stall. Proportional can possibly go higher than I show below to speed up response but try these settings first. You can also try the idle ignition settings below.

To clarify, the Xtreme has 2 round, 6pin "communication ports". One has a Red O-ring around it, this is the USB connection for PC tuning only, it cannot be used for anything else. The 2nd round comms port has both is CAN 1 and RS232 connections inside. CAN 2 is on the main 34 pin ECU "connector B". CAN 2 is normally the easiest to use as you dont need the special plug and our Looms already come with those CAN2 pins/wires populated. Since the CAN Lambda has configurable baud rate you will be fine to connect both your dash and CAN Lambda to the same bus. That will still leave CAN 1 spare.

The linked sensor is a Cherry/ZF GS1005. The datasheet is here: http://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/7/2012/05/Datasheet_GS1005-GS1007_EN_29_11_17.pdf For best results use the recommended minimum tooth size from the datasheet: I suggest 12 teeth as a good balance between resolution and speed capability. Wheel speed inputs must go to DI 1-8. There is a calibration number in the software to adjust for number of teeth and tyre diameter. You will not need shielded wire for hall type sensors when used for wheel speed.

A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L... Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input. The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location. The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead. The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).

I personally would leave the idle ignition disabled for now until you get the idle valve working reasonably well - otherwise it can mask problems with the idle valve tuning. That is why I didnt ask you to change the RPM lockout originally. The stalling is caused when fan #1 turns on, this is because your Fan#2 settings are wrong so that the ECU has already applied the "fan step" at 80°C, long before Fan 1 turns on. (I also note you have no fan set to turn on with AC but we will leave that for now). Try changing all red values again as per the screenshot below. Leave idle ign off for now and do another log.

The ecu is not entering idle control or idle ignition control because the base position table is commanding the valve open too far so the engine settles above the RPM lockout. Change all the settings in red below to match this example. It will likely still not work correctly but hopefully will be getting closer and we may get some more useful data from a log. Do another log for us with these settings.

There are instructions in the help file how to set up the CAN for the AIM dash. Note the pressure X 10 bug is in the AIM firmware, I notified them of this error about a year ago. From memory Lambda is also out by a factor of 10. See the last couple of posts in this thread:

I have received your file and briefly tested it, it seems to work correctly for me. My only thought now is perhaps there is a corrupt table or something in the background? Lets try a factory restore: ECU controls>restore to factory settings. Choose yes for both messages that follow. Powercycle ECU (turn power off then back on). File>open, then load in your original map. Test gear detection again.

As well as Clint's advice above, before doing the trigger cal you should first move the distributor to the mid position of its slot adjustment, this normally ensures rotor phasing is most correct (assuming cam timing is correct).