Adamw

Your E-throttle system is shutting down into safety mode due to an AP tracking error. I think your problem is due to the incorrect "APS (Sub) 100%" setting, yours is set to zero but it would normally be 100%. Try setting this to 100%, do a store and have another try.

Ok, I just probed my tuning cable, that pinout above is wrong. Here's what I get: Pin 1 = USB GND Pin 2 = N/C Pin 3 = D+ Pin 4 = D- Pin 5 = VCC Pin 6 = Shield (the metal case on the USB plug) Also be careful where you get your pinout from as I noticed when looking up the USB pinout on google many images have the D-/D+ swapped over. My numbering above is based on the pinout below that I have marked "correct".

Note DBW is not a good torque reduction method for traction control - it is just too slow as the throttle needs to move a relatively long way to give a small torque reduction. For traction control you generally need a very large torque reduction as quickly as possible to arrest the slip. This is the reason Ignition or fuel cut is the common method. I have seen some higher end control systems that do use DBW as part of the torque reduction strategy but it is rarely the sole TR method. In these systems they will usually arrest the slip initially using a cut (& sometimes retard) then only if the slip persists for some time they will close the throttle to reduce the amount of cut/retard required for control.

Hi Brett, Yes, one push for on, push again for off.

I would need to see a log to see what it causing your issue. How to get help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A One likely cause I see in your map is you have gear shift cut set up to be activated by DI4, yet you have DI4 assigned to wheel speed. So gear cut is going to be activated every time a wheel moves a little.

Hi Nguyen, I sent a reply to your tech support case earlier also. Please attach your map and dash config and I will take a look. You can email to if you dont want it on public forum.

Set the injector type to custom then you can type your own values into the deadtime table. Fill it out to look like this below:

Hi Mickey, Where abouts are you in the world? Is there somewhere local you can take it to try with a genuine USB cable?

I agree with Blaine here, you log doesnt really exhibit any problems - it looks like it is idling quite nice. I too think it is potentially the very short injector pulsewidth at idle that gives odd behaviour under some conditions and maybe giving it a slightly richer idle might help, maybe try less advance also as it has ~20deg at idle. Also your CLL is potentially being randomly disabled due to the "MAP delta" lockout combined with the unstable MAP. I would try increasing this from 0 up to about 3KPa.

Oh yeah, I missed the fact it is an Atom sorry. You will either have to block the idle circuit and try to get an acceptable idle with the throttle stop or fit a two wire solenoid type valve.

When adjusting trigger offset you have to hit the enter key for the changes to be applied. A high idle means too much air is getting in. This could be idle valve settings, throttle blade open too far, or an air leak. To eliminate the idle valve as the source of air you can set it to open loop mode and put large numbers through the whole base position table - say something like 500 should keep the valve closed.

Set your ISC Mode to open loop for now. Try much smaller numbers in the base position table. Try something like halving the numbers it presently has.

On the stock R34 the AC relay is supplied constant 12V (both the coil and the main contact), this needs to be changed so that at least the coil only has 12V when ignition switch is on. It is common to take this switched 12V source from the Injectors power supply. Diagrams below: Stock: Modified: Turn on AC switch. If AC doesnt work you need to change it... Yes, this is perfect. You dont need to "set the resistor value" the only option is to turn pull-up on of off - it needs to be on for your wiring choice.

If you watch DI8 status in the runtimes as shown below does it turn off after launch? Does it seem to switch on/off in a reasonable pedal position (i.e not at the very top in the free play region)? If you have a wheel speed input there are a couple of other tricks you could do so that it will only be active when car is not moving.

Yes that would be correct. You shouldnt need any of those.

I suspect the issue might be using MGP as the load axis on the main fuel table. The RB26 usually has a weak and sometimes unstable vacuum at idle so most tuners use TP as the main load axis. They then normally use the Open loop lambda target table to enrich under boost conditions and often a 4D table is not even required. Sometimes just a few cells in high boost areas requires 4D correction. If you can post a log of the car idling we can take a look and see if there is any opportunity to improve what you have without a complete re-map.

A quick copy/paste hack sorry... Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

You basically have it right. If your ECU is a "plugin" then you will need the CANPCB cable. If it is a wire-in ecu then you wont need that part. I suggest you avoid the CANDASH cable as that can disrupt PC connectivity. You may or may not need an extra connector/cable depending on which ECU you have. If you post what ECU you have I will give a little more info on what you will need or do a diagram tomorrow. Note you can buy new OBDII sockets with the terminals etc very cheap from many places: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302104260956 You will also need to run 12V & Gnd to the OBD socket:

It looks to me like Aux 18 is only capable of low side drive (will only send out a Ground) so that wont work with your wiring (the help file suggests it should be capable of highside but I think that comment is wrong at least with the present firmware). If you can move it to Aux 5-8 they are capable of High side drive so will then work with out re-wiring. If you want to stick with using Aux 18 then you will need ignition switched +12V supplied to pin 86.

Ok should work then - assuming your FP relay is expecting a ground signal to switch it on. Have you tried setting the Aux to "Test (On) mode? You can also set up a digital gauge or view the runtimes screen to make it easier to see what state Aux 18 is in like so: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPjDytZYLmVxZe_Shh

Your theory is sound but it wont work with your generic trigger setup. Since your trigger 2 sync mode is set to "cam pulse 1x", the ECU will only sync after it has seen a cam pulse. The other problem with our ECU (and most aftermarket ECU's) is they will only start firing from No1 cylinder, so even if you did achieve sync earlier, the ECU would still not start firing until No1 cylinder comes around again. For your interest though, many OEM trigger systems do work the way you describe - by using unique patterns on the crank it can work out crank position much faster then as soon as it knows what the crank position is it will look for certain edges or levels on the cam and will have 720 sync right away. From there some ECU's will instantly start firing the next scheduled cylinder while others less sophisticated just switch to batch fire/wasted spark mode and start firing when the first No 1 TDC comes around next (regardless of which stroke). I have a feeling our "Cam level" sync mode may sync within 360deg but I would have to confirm that with engineering as I dont know for sure. The easiest solution for you will just be to turn off trigger 2, then it will sync within 360deg with no hardware changes.

All data we have shows the PS switch "floats" when steering wheel is not moving and goes to 0V when the wheel is turned. AN Volt 5 has a pullup to 5V fitted on this ECU so that the ECU will see a 0-5V signal. Set the Error high to 5V and error low to 0V. It should just work and you shouldnt have to mess with anything. The PS switch is used to keep the idle speed more consistent by opening the idle valve a little more when PS is active.

Yes the reason is with PC Logging it is unlimited memory and you can log all parameters. With ECU logging you can only log 100 parameters an if you log all of those at full speed it will burn through the memory pretty quick. As we dont know what is the cause of your problem we dont know which parameters to log so you may not capture the problem. Can you not strap a laptop in somewhere?

Start with a log then either post it here or pass it on to your tuner to take a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Note the drivers for Aux 17-20 need to powered from pin D1 to function correctly (even for doing a normal low side drive), I suspect this is your problem if you havent got this pin connected to +14V.