Adamw

There are no obvious misfire causes in the log. Can you explain the misfire in more detail - does it happen at any specific RPM? Does it happen with just a "free rev" or only under higher load? Was it misfiring in the log? If so, where? Note your fuel pressure is reading zero in the log and doesnt appear to be set up correctly so I think this is probably making your injector deadtimes shorter than they should be, cant tell if that is causing any other effects without the tune.

Yes, APS should be at 0, TPS will either be sitting in the start-up position (Base position + start-up offset) if "run when stalled" is set to run, or it will be sitting in the sprung-neutral position if it is set to quiet mode. The start up position will vary with temperature, but often around 7% for a cold start and 3% for a warm start. Sorry about that, the updated map may not have made it out to public release yet. Attached below. Subaru WRX V10 G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

@Vaughan will probably give better specifics than me, but in the meantime since it is not immediately clear to me from your post, can you clarify: Are you putting an RB26 engine in a non-GTR chassis such as a GTS-4 or stagea, or do you have a GTR chassis but no engine loom?

Attach a new log then.

There is an updated V10 base map in G5 PC link which has some better idle settings. If you go to >file>compare, then choose the V10 base map, the differences in your map will be highlighted in red, change those to match the yellow. Yours isn't entering idle mode probably mostly from the dashpot offset being too big and the RPM lockout being too low. There were also changes to accel fuel in the newer base map so copy those changes as well. Bank 2 VVT is working correctly, it is sitting at 22deg as you have a target of 22deg. Bank 1 is not working, it is showing errors. Most likely you just need to do the calibration. With the engine warmed up and at a fast idle, set the cam angle test to "calibrate", it should take a couple of seconds then turn itself off when done.

Make sure the module base also has a direct path to engine ground, if it is mounted to the chassis then run a good-sized wire from the module base to a cyl head. Make sure it has suppressed HT leads and resistor spark plugs (OEM stuff should be fine).

When you close the set base timing screen, then the timing is no longer locked, it will do whatever is commanded from the ignition table and other controls such as idle ignition. Will need a log and the tune to offer any advice. What do you mean by "Trigger misses"?

The fact you said it wouldnt start when you turned on sync suggested it was syncing on the wrong stroke, so changing offset by 360 corrects that. Shifting the sync tooth past the cam edge position would effectively acheive the same thing so your observation that sync tooth >9 worked confirms that. Sync tooth 1 is always preferable as that means it is performing its sync test as early as possible (slighty quicker start), so it is better to adjust the offset rather than sync tooth when you are 360 out. Either edge would work in theory, but the fall time is about 1/10 of the rise time on the ZF sensors so you will get slightly more accurate timing using falling edge. This comment suggests that the offset may not be your only problem, so you may still have another tune related issue, but time will tell.

There is something wrong with the fuel supply, the fuel pressure intermittently drops to zero. Its also quite variable, only at 200Kpa initially,then increases to 300Kpa, then bouncing between 150-250kpa after it stalls.

You really need to confirm for yourself, it will be close to zero but these have quite a range of tolerance from factory. I have seen 5 or 6 degs difference in trigger offset between 2 engines. You dont need to go as far as making a pointer etc, I just turn the engine to TDC and paint a temporary mark with a white pen.

We dont have seperate fuel correction tables per gear - you have the 4D, 5D and the dual fuel can do 6D so that would only cover 3 gears. Rather than fudge it with correction tables however, I would first try to work out why the mixture is changing with gear ratio, it shouldn't.

It is a trigger issue, the ecu has received a trigger signal that does not match the expected pattern. Since it is occurring at peak torque I would suspect noise from the ignition system is interfering with the trigger signals.

Ideally it would. However, it is only controlling cam position so it is not super critical in terms of potential to damage something like for example a bad crank signal could do.

I would drop the master fuel to about half its current value, it possibly floods very quickly, otherwise I dont see much wrong. Start by confirming you have fuel and spark etc.

Your cam signal crosses zero volts at exactly the same time as the crank, this means with the smallest amount of cam movement the edges will cross so the ecu will see either 1 more or one less crank teeth than it expects. The cam zero crossing should normally be where I have drawn the pink line - roughly halfway between 2 crank falling edges. You will need to move the cam somehow.

It looks like it should have everything it needs to run. What size injectors does it have? The tacho will likely be a high voltage type so you will need a "tacho booster" to drive it - or modify the tacho.

Sync mode needs to be set to Cam pulse 1X. Sync tooth 1, falling edge for both trig 1 & 2. Change the trigger offset by 360 if it doesnt start with those changes. Base timing will need to be checked again after changing trig 1 edge. Will need a fresh log if it still doesnt start reliably with those settings.

Your ignition switch on DI2 is off so you have a 100% fuel and ign cut.

I would guess it is just fuel tune related. Try adjusting the master fuel setting by about say 20% in either direction to see if it needs less or more. I suspect it has too much fuel from the logged PW.

The trigger looks fine, it has an aftermarket 24 slot disk in it so you will need to determine the offset with a timing light. You only get a trigger error counter increment just as you stop cranking which is not unusual or anything to worry about. As jdniss states, you need to enter the correct injector flow rate.

The crank sensor is wired with incorrect polarity. Swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug should solve it.

Yes, supported since way back in G4/V88 days.

Barrel voltage or a position sensor as David suggests often doesnt give a great shift quality in my experience but you can give it a try. I have drawn a rough ms paint picture below to explain. If you have a strain gauge a typical shift sequence would look like this picture. Just before point A the driver has started to pull the lever, so lever force ramps up. At point A we see a little step in barrel voltage as the force from the lever rotates the barrel a little as it takes up the mechanical backlash in the barrel slots, shift forks etc. Once the backlash is taken up then the barrel voltage flatlines as there is nothing further that can move except for possibly a little flex in the shift fork. As the driver continues to pull on the lever, the force increases which is applying mechanical load or "preload" to the dog ring. At point B, the lever force reaches the set shift force threshold so the ecu cuts ignition which unloads the dogs, we already have significant preload on the dog ring so it should quickly release and travel towards the next gear. At point C the barrel voltage has reached the "next gear voltage margin" so the shift is considered complete and the cut is ramped out. In contrast, to use gear barrel voltage as the start shift request, the only place barrel voltage moves is at point A just as the backlash is taken up. So your cut is going to be much earlier than ideal, before there is any preload on the dog ring. This means it is going to come out of gear slower and the cut is going to be much longer. This method can also be more prone to false requests as it only takes a small bump to reach the barrel voltage threshold to trigger a shift. Note this picture is probably a little exaggerated but I was just trying to make it clear. In reality you are probably talking 20ms longer and it wont feel as seamless as a well-tuned shift will feel. You can use the "start shift validation time" to make up for some of that delay between point A & B to allow some preload to build etc, but it will never be as nice as a strain gauge shift. I will take a look at your map later when I have a bit of free time.

The pinout is in the help file or in the PDF manual on the WRX11 webpage. It is quite different to the USDM. Im fairly certain the CAN will be ok for the 2015+ USDM cars, I have done some basic testing on a couple of USDM cars successfully already. We are working on a plug-in for the USDM models now, I believe we should have the first batch of prototype boards fairly soon. Do you have access to a car you can test on?

I would set the Trig 1 edge to falling as the rising edge is slower in the Nissan CAS, this will shift the timing by 30deg. If it doesnt start after changing the edge then most likely your offset is incorrect so you will need to confirm with a timing light.